Monday, August 18, 2014






The food media are necessary members of the culinary community. Like any thoughtful patron, I hope that I bring appreciation and sensibility to the table. But the food media’s mission goes beyond that. We must pass our unbiased impressions on to the readers, while alerting the dining public to the diversity of choice on the culinary scene.

Are rating restaurants purely a question of taste? And within that there lies the matter of ingredients, innovation, style, consistency, service and much more. We place importance on other criterion such as, the wine list, the atmosphere, the setting, the service,  philosophy and obviously, the price.
Good writing furnishes you with enough information and insight to enable you to make informed decisions, while helping to arbitrate the standards of dining out. If you don’t have a good, strong food media — whether you love them or despise them — you don’t have the same degree of interest, enthusiasm and accountability.

One of the greatest joys about writing about culinary matters is “unearthing the diamond in the rough”. In my opinion, among the disappointments are discovering restaurants that don’t live up to their reputations, or the complaining owner who has lost interest in the business and the writing is on the wall. Almost as bad is the culinary equivalent of grey: dull at worst, inoffensive at best. Or the one-trick pony — the great restaurant whose menu never changes, and quickly the food becomes stagnant.

Even more disappointing are those hosts/servers who ride on the chef’s laurels and the restaurant’s former accolades, thinking the chef’s/restaurant’s reputation gives them carte blanche to dispense surly, indifferent or poor service to their customers.

Despite the changing definition of restaurant professionalism, poor customer service and unfriendly reservation policies disappoint us, and good service fosters loyalty, which in turn inspires repeat business and great word-of-mouth. Every time I return to certain restaurants, it hits me just how much uninterested service irks me and how profoundly irritated its patrons must feel, even when the food is the cream of the crop. Once you have been trained to view things from both a chefs and a restaurateurs perspective it never leaves you. I have devoted most of my working life to both ends of this spectrum.

Reading someone else’s assessment of a restaurant is not necessarily enough for every reader to evaluate a restaurant. The real way to do a restaurant justice is to eat there. These are my opinions and reflect my professional expertise.
119 King Street 519- 675-9995
Chef Dave Lamers and co-owner Rob D’Amico work with local farmers and growers to source products that boast both integrity and flavour and then incorporate these seasonal offerings into Abruzzi’s Italian-provenance-oriented menus. A superior wine list features plenty of exciting consignments. Windows that open to the street make the indoor to outdoor dining experience feel unified.

 Amici Italian Restaurant
350 Dundas Street 519-439-8983
Chef Paul Krohn’s small and attractive Alto Adige-inspired trattoria located in the downtown hotel district serves traditional “rustic” Italian specialties with quality ingredients. The intimate dining room fills up quickly, so be sure to make a reservation. Small seasonal patio.  

 Ben Thanh Viet Thai Restaurant
57 York Street, 519-438-4888
This popular Viet-Thai restaurant boasts many meal-in-a-bowl specialties and vegetarian options at accessible prices. Chefs prepare your meal fresh a la minute with quality ingredients and authentic herbs and spices. The large dining room is an airy, relaxing and casual environment.

 Billy's Downtown Deli
113 Dundas Street 519-679-1970
Jeff and Sandi Harvey’s Billy’s Deli on Dundas Street has been a popular downtown landmark for more than thirty years. For lunch, classic deli offerings like the quintessential Reuben and Montreal smoked meat sandwiches. There are always interesting daily blackboard specials designed to entice diners, and these offerings add seasonality to the extensive traditional deli menu. Interesting daily blackboard features. Billy’s has a stellar reputation for its seasonal pies. 

Black Trumpet
523 Richmond Street (South of Kent Street) 519- 850- 1500
Chef Scott Wesseling has a modern-day take on international classics, drawing from local and seasonal ingredients to create his new menu offerings.The expanded lunch menu includes a couple of different burgers, one using bison and the other venison. The restaurant's elegant courtyard patio is on of London's gems.

Blackfriar's Restaurant
46 Blackfriars Street 519 667 4930 Blackfriars Bistro is a deliciously arty bistro with a cheerful persona, knowledgeable servers and a top-notch kitchen. The health conscious, creative and ecelectic seasonal menus are handwritten by restaurateurBetty Heydon. Thiscasual bistro located just west of the Blackfriar's Bridge also features innovative, seasonal blackboard specials daily and a superb Sunday brunch.  

 Blu Duby
32 Covent Market Place 519- 433- 1414
Chef combines comfort food classics with modern European, Asian and Mediterranean twists. This is comfort cuisine in upmarket surroundings with a nod to hip, but not a speck of pretension. Owners Joe and Cheryl Duby feature a well thought out wine list offering a variety of price points.

 Budapest Dining Room & Tavern
348 Dundas Street 519- 439- 3431
The Budapest is a local treasure with red velvet, unintended kitsch and old world charisma. Doyenne Marika Hayek has been delighting patrons with her risqué repartee and dependably great Hungarian specialities in this traditional old- world tavern setting for 56 years. Comfy street side patio. "Of course, you must try the schnitzel or the stuffed veal — the spätzle is also delicious —save room for the palacsinta."

Che Restobar
225 Dundas Street (at Clarence) 519-601-7999
Marvin Rivas has designed an atmosphere that sends exactly the right message about Che: it is sexy and urbane, and casual and spontaneous, but it's personable, too, and the core commitment to authentic cuisine isn't blasé in the least. The menu blends tradition and ingenuity in true Latin American style.

 The Church Key Bistro Pub
476 Richmond Street (across from The Grand Theatre) 519- 936- 0960
This is a top-notch cooking and Chef Michael Anglestad has a repertoire of flavours that are big, brash and rustic but thoroughly cosmopolitan. Pastry Chef Cliff Briden is also at the top of his game. Best of all owners Vanessa and Pete Willis’s haven’t overlooked its roots as a place for locals to meet and imbibe. An intimate outdoor courtyard borders the south side of the building.

 David's Bistro
432 Richmond Street (at Carling) 519- 667- 0535
David Chapman and Chef Elvis Drennan present a solid array of classic French favourites. The dishes are so virtuous, in such a French way it's almost impossible to believe you're not in France. The bistro with its tiny bar, vivacious red walls and black-checked tablecloths is a venerated downtown dining destination. There is a sensibly priced, extensive and ever-changing consignment wine selection and interesting VQA’s.

The Early Bird
355 Talbot Street 519-439-6483
Gregg and Justin Wolfe’s Early Bird is King and Talbot’s red-hot, retro diner with casual farm-to-table cooking. The Early Bird has a quirky charm and a hotchpotch menu of updated retro diner classics and new generation comfort foods. Signature dishes include: the king-sized “turducken club” sandwich made with turkey, chicken and duck, perogies, and Montreal smoked meat that is made on site. Save room for the bacon-fried pickles. These are dishes with real soul. You can’t get much more hip-but-earthy than the Early Bird Diner. Check out the seasonal patio

 Five Fortune Culture Restaurant
368 Richmond Street 226-667-9873
Wen Bei Li's Chinese Five Fortune Culture Restaurant is located at the southeast corner of Richmond and King Street. This is not the formulaic Chinese restaurant serving Anglo-genres conceived by old-style Taishanese and rural Cantonese immigrants who adapted traditional Chinese recipes to suit local tastes and available ingredients. The cuisine as prepared by Jie Liang and interpreted by Wenbei is, "Pure Chinese" a combination of Yunnan, Sichuan and Guizhou influences. The five good fortunes are: wealth, health, longevity, love, and virtue. Try the congee.

Garlic's of London
481 Richmond Street (beside The Grand Theatre) 519- 432- 4092
Proponents of farm-to-table cuisine, Owner Edo Pehji, Manager Emma Pratt, Chef Chad Stewart and their culinary team offer intelligent and ethically informed menu choices. Garlic’s combines all the elements of a perennial favourite - as delicious, affordable, top-of-the-line, rustic cooking using seasonal and high quality ingredients.

Icarus Resto Bar
519 Richmond Street (near Dufferin Avenue)
Zack Agathos’s new open- kitchen places an emphasis on modern casual dining with both a Greek flavour and flare. The restaurant is in its fledgling days.

Idlewyld Inn - 519 432 5554
A local landmark since 1878, Idlewyld Inn & Spa combines the elegance of a bygone era with all the modern amenities sophisticated travellers have come to expect from a luxury hotel. 

 La Casa Ristorante
117 King Street (across from Covent Garden Market) 519- 434-2272
Chef Scott Sanderson’s menus are rooted in the authentic Italian tradition. All the classics of Italian culinary canon are on the virtuous menu —prepared from scratch with skill. Consistency and familiarity are the hallmarks of the La Casa culinary experience. Signature dishes like: risotto al salto, house-made angel hair pasta with sautéed shrimp and lobster tagliolini are masterworks.

Marienbad Restaurant
122 Carling Street (at Talbot) 519- 679- 9940
For forty years the Marienbad has brought the European dining culture to downtown in a casual atmosphere. The kitchen evokes eastern and central Europe with its skill for that perfect marriage of sweet and sour time-honoured specialties. There is an exceptional steak tartare and a variety of signature schnitzels.  A black iron fence, flower boxes, and comfortable tables with festive umbrellas add charm to the inviting side walk patio.

 Massey's Fine Indian Cuisine
174 King Street (near Richmond) 519-672-2989
Chef/owner of Patison Massey and his partner and spouse Anisha, seem to be always on hand. Chef shows his expertise with his dazzling way with spices bestowing and building flavors to great effect. A variety of vegetarian offerings and classic favourites like: smoky-spiced baingan patiala, everything tandoori, butter chicken, nann, and various exotic accompaniments.

Michael’s on-the-Thames
1 York Street (at the bridge) 519- 672- 0111  
For thirty years and counting, Michael’s on-the-Thames has been regarded as London’s ‘celebration destination’ and for good reason. Owner-operator Brian Stewart, general manager Joelle Lees, executive Chef Denis Clavette and their polished staff gives its patrons what they want, consistently. The restaurant has been smartly refurbished to create a renewed sense of comfort and well-being.

Milos' Craft Beer Emporium
This is London’s premier craft beer destination, owned and operated by renowned publican Milos Kral. Chef Matt Reijnen prepares menus that reflect their farm-to-table commitment and passion for everything local. Kral offers 23 micros on tap with excellent style variation. Craft beer enthusiasts have made this local landmark part of Ontario’s rich craft beer culture. Seasonal patio.

 The Morrissey House
359 Dundas Street 519-204-9220
Publican Marc Serré’s Morrissey House with its unique selection of beers and innovative pub food is a welcoming, warm and cozy local. Chef Andrew Harris offers a menu that is comfortable and accessible but with a twist. Almost everything is mad in house from scratch. There is al fresco dining on their popular 60-seat patio.

Organic Works Bakery
222 Wellington Street, www.organicworksbakery
Peter Cuddy's Organic Works Bakery is a stylish café and certified organic and allergen-free bakery located in the heart of SoHo. Specializing in recipes made with organic, gluten-free, nut-free and vegan ingredients. 

Raja Fine Indian Cuisine
428 Clarence St. (North of Dundas) 519-601-7252
The Raja serves fine Indian cuisine in refined and elegant surroundings by a knowledgeable, deferential and well-trained staff. The dining room has character and sophistication with its marble floors, deep red painted walls and white accents. 

 Rock au Taco
355 Talbot Street 519-439-6483
The latest brain wave of the Wolfe brothers, Rock au Taco located next door to the Early Bird Diner is serving up delicious and authentic tacos and Mexican cuisine, ice cold cervezas, and smooth tequila. This is gourmet inspired street food and classic comfort-club grub.

The Root Cellar Organic Café
623 Dundas Street  519-719-7675
Community-focused, local, sustainable and responsible are the words used to describe the Root Cellar’s philosophy. Chef Dani Gruden-Murphy procures his ingredients from food grown and produced within a 45-minute radius of London. Breads and baking are crafted from Arva Flour Mill wheat. The Root Cellar will soon become London’s first co-operatively owned nanobrewery of its kind and will offer the beer on tap in the café.

The Springs
310 Springbank Drive; 519-657-1100
Chef Andrew Wolwowicz cooks at the full degree of his capability, with finely tuned instincts, skill, dedication, precision, creativity and passion. The Springs proudly use the finest locally grown products from farms specializing in sustainable agriculture, organic growing practices and ethically-raised livestock.

Tamarine by Quynh Nhi
118 Dundas Street 519- 601-8276
Chef’s Quyhn and Nhi’s modern Vietnamese menus are cleverly balanced, with a gentle rhythm between strong and subtle flavours uniting both colour and texture. The stylish dining room is so warm and embracing, it's hard not to think you're in a cocoon.

T.G`s Addis Ababa
265 Dundas Street 519-4334222
Dining at chef T.G. Haile`s Addis Ababa is characterized by the ritual of breaking injera (the traditional yeast-risen flatbread which is spongy in texture, crèpe-like in appearance with sourdough tanginess) and sharing food from a communal platter signifying the bonds of loyalty and friendship. For more than a decade, T.G.’s Addis Ababa has offered a tour de force from the Ethiopian culinary repertoire. The modest restaurant is tucked away off-the-beaten-track in an unassuming brick building the south side of Dundas Street near the corner of Burwell and Maitland.
Thaifoon Restaurant
120 Dundas Street (East of Talbot) 519- 850- 1222

Thaifoon sets itself apart with bang-on aromatic specialties from the Thai culinary canon and with their keen eye for detail and presentation. The minimalist room is sleek, with a sexy, upbeat soundtrack, rich dark woods and ultra-soft leather banquettes.

TOOK  (The Only on King)

172 King Street, 519 936 2064
Possessing a superior grasp on the tenets of terroir and sustainability, chef/owner Paul Harding’s cooking is faultless. The Only on King, with its farm-to-table philosophy and culinary repertoire is a master class in modern comfort cooking. The daily changing menu is unique by London standards and something that few chefs/restaurateurs would be in a position to execute with the kind of success that Harding has achieved.

The River Room Café and Private Dining
Museum London, Ridout Street N. 519 850 2287
Panoramic views and the tailored simplicity and elegance of the River Room make it breathtaking.  Jess Jazey-Spoelstra’s kitchen has a deserved reputation for the quality of the ingredients and the knowledgeable and expressive exuberance of the preparations. Open Tues.–Fri., from 11 am. to 4 pm. and Sunday for Brunch.

The Tasting Room
383 Richmond Street 519- 438- 6262
Menus are a  mix of current trends and updated classics. Lively tapas bars were the inspiration for this restaurant for this popular hotspot.  Small plates are the main focus and the list is extensive. Wine tasting flights are divided into four, 2-ounce glasses of red or white.

True Taco Authentic Comedor Latino
789 Dundas Street 519 433 0909
Luis Rivas and Elsa Garcia and family continue to wow guests by providing flavour and ambiance at their new and much larger restaurant. The kitchen offers up a spectacular all-day breakfast of huevos rancheros: sunny-side up eggs with homemade sauce and locally sourced beans and tortillas. Handmade pupusas are a specialty and are mad with rice or corn flour tortillas. Central American offerings include, burritos, tacquitos, quesadillas, enchiladas and corn-husk wrapped pork and corn meal tamales.

Unique Food Attitudes
697 Dundas Street 519 649 2225
Barbara Czyz`s  chic storefront bistro in the Old East Village has been an instant success due to its modern European sensibility, changing chalkboard menu offerings, fabulous food, and warm and attentive vibe. The bistro with its black slate counters, chrome accents, comfortable seating and sidewalk tables with umbrellas continues to draw clients from all over the city. House specialties include Goulash and potato pancakes, krokiety (crepes) and red borsch made from beets, bigos (sauerkraut-mushroom-meat stew), slow cooked cabbage rolls and tender peirogi with a variety of sweet and savoury fillings. One day our charming and hospitable server Beata recommended the szavlotka (delicious apple cake) and we have been converts to Czyz’s baking since

Waldo's on King Bistro and Wine Bar
130 King Street (Covent Garden Market) 519 433 6161
Mark Kitching’s kitchen brigade offer definitive bistro-style selections. There's a comforting trajectory with this kind of reliable fare, dependably good appetizers to a fresh spin on classic entrée favourites. This is where you will find the best “organic” burger and Caesar salad in town. Great outdoor patio.

Willie’s Café
731 Wellington St; 519-433-9027

Ian Kennard’s Willie’s Café has been a revered London lunch hot-spot for 19 years. Chef Gail Rains is a culinary dynamo who combines efficient professionalism with friendly repartee in the small open kitchen. Menu items include over a dozen different sandwiches and wraps, along with a variety of soups, salads and other house specialties. Everything is made in-house and from scratch.  They have built a reputation as caterers and their fresh and healthy fare is delivered to your office at an affordable price. Set price, set menu dinner the last Friday of the month and a good Saturday brunch. 

Zen Gardens
344 Dundas Street (at Waterloo) 519-433-6688
Zen Garden’s creative kitchen serves the best healthy vegetarian meals that you can imagine, in an upscale, tranquil atmosphere.

Some of  favourite patios -

Bertoldi’s Trattoria

Bertoldi’s Trattoria, from the Difruschia brothers, Dino and Bob, of McGinnis Landing fame has a well-appointed rooftop patio that gives patrons a great view of the denizens on Richmond Row. The patio with seating for 100 resembles an Italian garden replete with hanging baskets and colourful umbrellas. On cooler evenings, an infrared heating system lends the patio a warm glow. On sunny days, a misting system helps cool things down without getting patrons wet. There is a full menu of Italian-inspired choices for diners. 519-438-4343, 650 Richmond St.
Fellini Koolini’s Italian Cuisini
Fellini Koolini’s Italian CuisiniFellini Koolini’s Italian Cuisini, and its sibling restaurant, The Runt Club, operate twin patios on a charming backstreet just off Richmond Row. Fellini Koolini’s is uber- restaurateur, Mike Smith’s tongue-in-cheek homage to the surreal Italian director. Railings are intertwined with grape vines and the terracotta pots filled with bread sticks lend a touch of Italian kitsch. Menu favourites include a seemingly endless selection of high-brow - lowbrow creations: pastas, thin crust pizza, steamed mussels, calamari, steaks, etc.(519-642-2300, 153 Albert St.)
The Runt Club
Next door is a larger patio at The Runt Club, a typical pub, but offering the Fellini’s menu. The terrace has sleek contemporary stainless chairs and tables and plenty of shade from mature trees, festooned with twinkle lights in the evening. A very popular watering hole. (519-642-2300, 155 Albert St .)
Mythic Grill
Also on Albert Street, you’ll find the Mythic Grill. The quaint restaurant is known for its traditional Greek cuisine that is both well-made and fresh. The patio seats 20. There is a small fountain, greenery and nice shade. The calamari rocks. (519-433-0230, 179 Albert St .)

Windemere  Café 
Located at Windermere Manor, the Windermere Café has a charming patio that is a delightful extension of the café and is situated in a truly distinctive natural setting. Breeze through French doors onto the stone floor and you are seated at tables nestled among tall spruce trees. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and Sunday brunch. (519-858-5866, 200 Collip Circle )
Katana Kafe and Grill
The staff is professional and attentive; the cuisine receives raves, and the dining experience top-notch. The restaurant maybe off the beaten path, being located near the airport, but it offers a spectacular view . Perfect for plane spotters and aeronautical aficionados with its patio located next to the tarmac. The food is excellent and one of few places that offers a weekend breakfast. Reservations are recommended. (519-455-9005, 2530 Blair Rd. )

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