LONDON ONTARIO`S RESTAURANT ROUNDUP 2014
LONDON ONTARIO`S RESTAURANT ROUNDUP
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London is acknowledged as a great culinary
destination with chefs, restaurants and farmers’ markets dedicated to a
developing a regional culinary identity. An increasing number of the city’s
gastro- culture are part of the new wave of collaborative chefs and cooks
who source ingredients locally and embrace the tenets of sustainability,
seasonality and accountability.
BEST CHEF – Danijel ``Dacha`` Markovic, Kantina Restaurant:
Markovic is an uncompromising artist and
culinary innovator. Chef was an early adopter of the modern farm-to-table
culinary repertoire. He is not just advancing “eating and sourcing local” and
“eating seasonal,” he is vigorously and ingeniously enhancing and developing a
new region-specific cuisine in the tiny kitchen at Kantina on Talbot Street. By the age of seven,
Markovic’s precocious skills were already developing, from cooking and working
with his mother in the family kitchen in former Yugoslavia. His father was a
professional cook. Markovic`s menus are hyper-local and artisanal, with
thoughtful and exciting riffs on an iconic indigenous cuisine. Markovic
continues to be London’s reining culinary rock star.
BEST PASTRY CHEF – Michelle Lenhardt, River Room:
The desserts at the
River Room are prepared by über-pastry chef Michele Lenhardt (former co-owner
of Black Walnut Café and pastry chef at the AGO). Lenhardt’s Goat Cheese
Cheesecake, Cherry Tart and Lemon Tart are all classics. Chocolate Pâté is
rave-worthy, as is Semifreddo. Lenhardt brings River
Room’s signature Vanilla Bean Crème Brulee dessert to a whole new level. The
made-to-order apple fritters are served hot, with caramel dipping sauce. Beignets (deep-fried choux
paste) are served hot, with bacon fudge and vanilla cream. If you are a
connoisseur of classic pastry and dessert, you have come to the right place –
Lenhardt`s talent is unparalleled in the city and consistently brings dessert
offerings to a whole new level.
BEST DINING EXPERIENCE – River Room Private
Dining:
Jess Jazey-Spoelstra’s
River Room, inside Museum London, has banks of tinted windows with panoramic
views overlooking the Forks of the Thames. This superb lunch spot has the
clubby ambience of a Manhattan restaurant, with its casual, tailored décor and
New York attitude and some of the best service in the city.
It is not just because
Spolestra has had me to the restaurant for impromptu tastings of Russ &
Daughters’ caviar, smoked fish, herring, cream cheese and bagels. Or, “that a
taste of Russ & Daughters caviar is like receiving a kiss from the sea.”
Quality, craft, and a discerning palette; these are three obsessions that have
made Russ & Daughters’ world-famous. Think cream cheese is just cream cheese?
The freshness, quality and double-whipped goodness of their cream cheese cannot
be duplicated. And, nobody in this city does bone marrow the way the River Room
does – oh, the pleasure of eating pure rich hot bone
marrow. www.northmoore.ca/theriverroom/
BEST FINE DINING EXPERIENCE – Best Restaurant
Wine List (Overall) 2013 – David’s Bistro
Chefs David Chapman and Elvis Drennan have a strong
and rustic culinary signature. They are long-time proponents of the philosophy
that simplicity and purity are the hallmarks of good cooking. The eponymous
David’s Bistro with its tiny bar, vibrant red walls and black-checked
tablecloths is a venerated downtown culinary destination. David, his wife Cindy
Kinsella, and David’s daughter Natalie are your hosts and are on hand to dispense
knowledgeable, amiable and skilled service. 432 Richmond Street (at Carling)
519 667 0535
BEST FARM-TO-TABLE RESTAURANT AND BEST ONTARIO
WINE SELECTION – The Only on King
In its seventh year,
The Only on King, with its fully realized farm-to-table philosophy, devoted
acknowledgement of the local terroir and support of local farmers and
producers, remains the personification and archetype of the virtuous
up-to-the-minute Ontario restaurant. The restaurant’s kitchen, led by Paul Harding
is a self-proclaimed “labour of love.” When Harding is not chained to the
stove, he continues to find
new ways to integrate the locavore ethic into all aspects of “The Only”. www.theonlyonking.ca
BEST MODERNIST DINING – Kantina Restaurant
Proprietor Miljan
Karac and Chef- molecular gastronomist Danijel Markovic reinterpret classic Balkan
–inspired cuisine with plenty of skill, expertise and locally-sourced
ingredients in their chic downtown London restaurant. This is a scratch kitchen with a modernist
flair and all items are made in-house and by hand. The menus are thoughtful,
cutting-eddge and exciting riffs on an iconic indigenous cuisine imbued with
modern farm to table ideals. 511 Talbot Street 672 5862 www.kantina.ca
BEST OVERALL DINING EXPERINCE – Garlic’s of
London
Proponents of stellar
farm-to-table cuisine, Owner Edo Pehji, Manager Emma Pratt, chef Chad Stewart
offers intelligent and ethically informed menu choices. This is affordable,
top-of-the-line, rustic cooking using seasonal quality ingredients. Garlic’s
embodies the warm relationship between authentic culinary pleasure and regional
ingredients. A place to relax and savour superbly crafted dishes that are imaginative
modern twists on tradition. www.garlicsoflondon.com
P
Blu Duby
BEST RESTAURANT SERVICE – Blu Duby
Joe and Cheryl Duby`s restaurant
sports modern sophistication with its chic décor, combined with an innovative
approach to family-friendly comfort food and artful cuisine. Casual
bistro-style selections and tantalizing vegetarian choices are on offer, as
well as many classic food favourites that have been updated and reimagined by
Stratford Chef School alumnus, Chef Dani Gruden-Murphy (former chef co/owner of
the original incarnation of the Braywick Bistro). The restaurant’s cooking
repertoire keeps evolving, and the presentation is both stylish and simple.
What you won’t find here is pretension or attitude. Together the Dubys,
hand-picked a team of dynamic hospitality professionals: known for their
exemplary customer service skills, clever repartee, and wit. Daytime manager
Mathew Mckenzie, Kim Miller, William McKillop, Ray Nernberg, Hannah
Kenwell, Scott MacDonald and Toni Mansilla make up the winning team. 125 Dundas Street / 32
Covent Market Place 519-433-1414
BEST CHINESE – The Chinese Barbeque:
The Chinese Barbeque
(aka “Gee Gai Yun” – meaning “Our Family People”) is acknowledged as
currently the number one Chinese Barbeque restaurant in the city. The
cooking is informed by the Cantonese cuisine of Hong Kong, by way of Vietnam.
This family-run business is the progeny of Quan Quyet Chow Ly and her sons Quan
and John Ly. Keeping with “the nose-to-tail eating” philosophy and trend, this
is the perfect restaurant for the true culinary adventurer to sample Chinese
barbecue (char-siu) specialties. Hanging in the window near the entrance to the
restaurant you will see whole pigs (sourced locally in Mt. Brydges) that have
been coated with a signature honey and molasses marinade and roasted until the
skin is crisp, glistening and golden brown. The food at The Chinese Barbecue
has a fresh homemade quality with locally-sourced ingredients. No stale taro
cake or premade, frozen Dim Sum here. The menu is expansive. 994 Huron Street,
London 519-963-0375
BEST ETHIOPIAN –T.G`s Addis Ababa:
Dining at chef T.G. Haile`s Addis Ababa is characterized by the ritual of
breaking injera (the traditional yeast-risen flatbread which is
spongy in texture, crèpe-like in appearance with sourdough tanginess) and sharing food from a communal platter signifying the bonds of loyalty
and friendship. For more than a decade, T.G.’s Addis Ababa has
offered a tour de force from the Ethiopian culinary repertoire. The modest
restaurant is tucked away off-the-beaten-track in an unassuming brick building
the south side of Dundas Street near the corner of Burwell and Maitland. www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com
BEST GREEK – Mykonos:
Heidi and Bill Vamvalis have been serving authentic
Greek food and traditional English fish and chips for over thirty years. In
that time, we expect the gracious and irrepressible Heidi has hugged the entire
city. Mykonos has an extensive menu selection of casual Greek fare. There is a
nicely revamped wine list featuring several good Greek selections. 572 Adelaide
Street, 519-434-6736
BEST ITALIAN – Abruzzi Ristorante
Abruzzi
is London’s premiere Italian-inspired restaurant, an up-to-date epicurean
hotspot serving both modern and emblematic regional specialties. That Abruzzi
is on the extremely short list of good Italian restaurants serving great food
makes it one of the most exciting restaurants in London. That it is in walking
distance of the Budweiser Gardens and the dining room looks out onto the Covent
Garden Market square are additional bonuses. 119 King Street (across from Covent Garden Market) 519-675 9995
BEST LATIN AMERICAN – Tru Taco:
This restaurant quickly made its name and
built a reputation for quality, authentic Mexican and El Salvadorian food. It
all started with just a modest offering of 4 really delicious tacos and a
limited menu of other specialities. “The big favourite being the taco al pastor
made with juicy pork loin, pineapple, onion and cilantro that just melt into
the meat." says Rivas. The other taco signature specialties are prepared
with a choice of chorizo, beef barbacoa, or beef tongue, and a selection of
homemade sauces. At the restaurant there are 16 fresh salsas to choose from.
The nacho chips are house made, artisan corn tortillas are produced and sourced
nearby in Alymer. True Taco offers a spectacular all-day breakfast of huevos rancheros,
sunny side up eggs with homemade sauce served with beans (locally sourced) and
tortillas ($6.95) at both locations. 789
Dundas St; 519 433- 0909 (unlicensed) Western Fair Farmers and Artisans’ Market
(Saturdays 8 to 3pm).
BEST POLISH – Unique Food Attitudes
Barbara Czyz`s chic storefront bistro in the Old East
Village has been an instant success due to its modern European sensibility,
changing chalkboard menu offerings, fabulous food, and warm and attentive vibe.
The bistro with its black slate
counters, chrome accents, comfortable seating and sidewalk tables with
umbrellas continues to draw clients from all over the city. House specialties
include Goulash and potato pancakes, krokiety (crepes) and red borsch made from
beets, bigos (sauerkraut-mushroom-meat stew), slow cooked cabbage rolls and
tender peirogi with a variety of sweet and savoury fillings. One day our
charming and hospitable server Beata recommended the szavlotka (delicious apple
cake) and we have been converts to Czyz’s baking since. 697 Dundas Street 519 649 2225
BEST THAI – Thaifoon:
The kitchen’s oeuvre is a consistent showcase of Thailand’s regional
flavours of hot, sweet, sour and salty, honouring tradition well embracing
modernity. Thaifoon is careful to
give you just the right level of spicing you want. Brothers Eddy and Alex Phimprhrachanh are the proprietors of Thaifoon,
downtown London’s upmarket Southeast Asian restaurant. Their hip and stylish take on the ancient
Thai culture, with a décor that honours the past while embracing modernity, has
earned both raves and admiration for their vision and ambitions.
BEST VEGETARIAN – Zen
Gardens Vegetarian Restaurant:
Zen Garden’s creative kitchen serves the best
healthy vegetarian meals that you can imagine, in an upscale, tranquil atmosphere.
Even meat substitutes are made from natural ingredients and spices; absolutely
no chemicals or preservatives. 344 Dundas Street 519-433-6688
BEST VIETNAMESE – BEST
INTERIOR DESIGN – Tamarine by Quynh Nhi:
Tamarine is sleek and
urban chic, with a sophisticated palette and upscale mix of contemporary Asian
–inspired motifs, art cuisine and ambience. This is superb contemporary South
Vietnamese cuisine. Dishes are designed to be mixed and matched in ways that
balance flavours and fragrance, as well as texture and colour. 118 Dundas Street 519-601-8276
BEST ALFRESCO DINING – Black
Trumpet Restaurant
In the warm-weather months, a prestige spot for
alfresco dining is the beautifully appointed and private Indonesian style
garden at the Black Trumpet Restaurant. It is a secluded oasis, seating 60, and
is one of the city’s best-kept secrets. At lunch, the cuisine is an amalgam of
Asian- and Italian-inspired signature dishes, with influences and ingredients
from various Mediterranean cultures.
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