Break Out The Blinis and Caviar. Bacon-Flavoured Chocolate is Out. Roasted Cauliflower is in and Kale is Out. What’s Trending.
Break Out The Blinis and Caviar. Bacon-Flavoured Chocolate is Out. Roasted Cauliflower is in and Kale is Out. What’s Trending in 2014.
BY BRYAN LAVERY
Bacon-flavoured chocolate is out. Roasted cauliflower is in
and kale is out. And, if that is not enough, those who sold their souls
for a bit of transitory fame by using foams, liquid nitrogen, carbon dioxide
and emulsifiers are also on their way out. Unless of course, you are a serious
molecular gastronomist, Nordic, culinary modernist, or have a death wish.
There has been no spotlight shone on the diversity of
Russian cuisine in the mainstream press. The iconic caviar topped pancakes
called blinis should be having resurgence in popularity. It is a perfect a
union as eggs and bacon. (Sustainable caviar that is.)
Chimichurri, poultry, variations on eggs benedict, regional
Italian cuisine and anything remotely barbecue are still in; ramen
noodles, pickles (can pickle juice really stop muscle cramps?) and the
Southeast Asian cuisines are beginning to spike lots of interest among food
enthusiasts.
One of the top food trends in 2014 will be the continuing
obsession with chilies and heat. Food lovers and fire breathers everywhere are
seeking out their next big chili high. Sriracha’s (think rooster bottle with
hot, garlic aroma, vinegar kick and sweet finish) closest competition remains
the Korean chili paste, gochujan, the savoury and pungent fermented Korean
condiment made from red chili, glutinous rice, fermented soybeans and salt. Dab
it on anything but be sure try it in your bibimbap, bulgogi and banh mi.
The Latin cuisines are big food trends that we have no
quarrel with, thanks to a seductive blend of multicultural and native
influences. Rio de Janeiro and the Copacabana School of Culinary Arts will
bring Brazil’s seafood stews, grilling techniques, and both local and rare
Amazonian ingredients into the culinary limelight when the country hosts the
2014 World Cup and 2016 Summer Olympics.
The cemita, whose distinguishing characteristic is the
liberal use of the minty herb papalo, originates in the Mexican state of Puebla
and joins the banh mi, cubano, and panino as part of the contemporary lunchtime
sandwich canon. Peruvian, Cuban and regional Mexican flavours and ingredients
are also being touted as the next big waves of interest.
Indian cuisine is having its day in the sun, emerging from
its traditional confines with modernist interpretations. Think fresh sea
bass cooked with Amritsari spices and served with chole (chick peas) inside
perfectly fried aloo bhaturas.
The spreadable salumi Nduja (en-DOO-yah), the fiery pork
paste from Calabria, Italy, is becoming ubiquitous. Typically made with parts
of the pig such as the shoulder, belly and jowl, as well as tripe, roasted
peppers and a mixture of spices, it is giving pork rillettes a run for their
money.
The culinary world is rapidly embracing smartphones, mobile
apps and a host of convenient tools for the epicure in you. Multicultural
gourmet street food and food trucks continue to trend and grow in popularity
despite opposition from out-of-touch politicians. Food trucks stimulate
culinary innovation, improve tourism, create employment and are an important
part of the social and cultural fabric of a city.
Tattoos in the restaurant biz are hardly original, but the
fact that chefs choose to ink themselves with symbols of their craft,
specifically images of their ingredients or their ethos, is most assuredly
worth paying attention to. Please don’t ask them to roll up their sleeves for a
peek or ask them to dab a little sriracha behind their ears. And lastly, chefs:
despite what you see on the Food Network, the head band is not back.
On a more Serious Note...
Members
of the restaurant community will tell you that restaurant critics wield
considerable influence with the dining public. Like any thoughtful patron, they
will, we hope, bring appreciation, intelligence and sensibility to the table.
But their mission goes beyond that. They must pass their impressions on to
their readers. The media are important members of the culinary community. They
alert the dining public to the diversity of choice on the dining scene and
inform them while helping to arbitrate the changing standards for dining.
No
critic or diner is going to like or appreciate every style of cuisine or
restaurant. It seems to me restaurant criticism is less cloak and dagger and
more objective in their approach to reviewing a restaurant than ever before.
A review
should characterize a restaurant, not compare it to another place with a
totally different mission or philosophy. It should furnish you with enough fact
and insight to make an informed decision. You can decide whether or not to go.
Trend spotters use a variety of ways to determine what`s
hot and what`s not. The fact is, most trends have a shelf life of about a
decade. Food magazines have heralded the return of comfort food at least once a
year since the mid-1980`s. I have often marvelled at the way the culinary
media, food magazines, trend predictors and industry influencers seize a
collective thought with such a synchronicity of timing.
Food enthusiasts are particularly attuned to the concept of authenticity and
experiential tastes when it comes to culinary matters. With the
simultaneous escalation of the food media, food apps and camera phones
consumers accumulate tastes
(and dishes) and those food preferences are archived and relayed immediately,
often before the first bite. The new gastro-culture is particularly
adept at sharing experiences through digital means, and the bragging rights
associated with ``foodism`` are an evolving consequence.
As we become even more exposed to cultural diversity and
the fact that the whole world of food is opening up to us there are a lot more
culinary options open to us.
As for trending cuisine, it’s made from scratch and it’s
innovative. Chefs continue to implement time-honoured traditions and trusted
techniques yet delivering ingredients in revolutionary ways. They are the new
culinary vanguards. Many of these trailblazers of the cutting-edge and emerging
culinary regionalism are profiled on this blog. Our true culinary stars are not
only our farmers, but also those labouring in restaurant, hotel and market
kitchens, offering up some of Ontario’s finest food and most innovative drink
experiences.
Comments
Post a Comment