Dragonfly Bistro — Intimate, Stylish and Attentive with an Indo-Dutch Flair — Celebrates 10 years

Chef/Co-Owner Donald Yuriaan 

Kari Kol

Ayam Bumbu

By BRYAN LAVERY

“Bistro,” a restaurant category that harkens back to the late 19th century in France and the early 20th century in England, is flexible in its connotations, but always refers to an establishment where one can have a meal as well as drinks. True bistros are generally small, and their menus are characteristically comprised of straightforward selections, often rustic in nature but not pricey. Dragonfly Bistro is one such place.

For me, the name Dragonfly conjures up images of beauty and exotica. The adult dragonfly can thrust itself in six directions: downward, upward, forward, backward, and side to side, so the choice of the name Dragonfly for the restaurant intrigued me.

Even though the restaurant has large and attractive windows facing the street, in some respects it remains hidden in plain sight at the north end of Richmond Row, housed in the premises once occupied by the Village Café next door to the Ground Up Organic Cafe. Seated by the window, I have on several occasions watched many inquisitive passers-by stop to peruse the menu posted in the window and then resume walking. I want to advise them to step inside to the intimate and charming 24-seat dining room, which is now in its tenth year of operation.

When you first enter the restaurant, you are immediately greeted, your coat is taken, and you are properly seated. There is a disposition of giving and taking pride and pleasure in giving hospitality and providing warm service. Co-owner Nora Yuriaan's service is attentive, personal, efficient and warm.

Smaller restaurants seem to impart an intimacy, conviviality and hospitality that can never be duplicated in larger spaces. Compact premises might bear more scrutiny, but the type of familiarity they afford often breeds mutual respect and appreciation for both the kitchen and patrons. This has been evident on the several visits I have made to the Dragonfly. There are starched red linen tablecloths and napkins here, as well as impeccably set tables with quality stemware and polished glassware that adds panache to the surroundings.

The kitchen is compact but ordered. Chef Donald Yuriaan produces classic dishes that can be executed with ease and simplicity. He emphasizes that the menus are designed to accommodate seasonal ingredients and locally procured foods.

The culinary legacy of West Java, in Indonesia, might seem like an audacious muse for this intimate and stylish restaurant. However, chef Yuriaan is Indonesian by birth and was previously employed at the Grand Hotel Preanger in Bandung, the capital of West Java, after graduating from Hotel Management. For several years, Chef was employed by both Holland America and Norwegian cruise lines. It is interesting to note that the archipelago of 17,504 islands known as Indonesia is home to over 360 ethnic groups.

On the menu, there is spice for those who seek heat. Mere heat, however, is not all that most of Dragonfly Bistro’s clients desire. We were enthused by the sambal-like hot and spicy chili sauce that bathed the Indonesian- inspired Ayam Balado (chicken breast served with a spicy red chili, tomato and spice sauce with shallots, garlic, ginger, galangal, lemon grass, palm sugar, lime leaves and Indonesian Bay leaves) on the inner menu. Other entrees on the dinner menu might include chateaubriand, maple-glazed filet of salmon, lamb and wild mushroom spaghetti. There is a daily homemade soup. On several occasions, we were impressed with Chefs’ velvety Cream of Jerusalem Artichoke Soup.

Chef proffers a prix fixe  Indonesian menu in the evenings that is perfect for anyone looking for a rich and varied range of authentic favours. Sour notes of galangal, lemon grass, tamarind and lime leaves offer more subtlety and range to the cooking. Not since Mies Bervoest stopped serving a skilled repertoire of Indo-Dutch inspired dishes in a rijsttafel at the former Miestro restaurant several years back, have we had access to these flavour mixtures.

From the Indonesian menu we ordered the Ayam Bumbu (sliced chicken breast) with Indonesian peanut sauce. It was served with Kari Kol, cauliflower in a sauce of Indonesian curry; with steamed jasmine rice known as Nasi Putih. The Indonesian menu is served family-style, priced based on portion per person, not an all you can eat buffet.

For dessert there is sticky toffee pudding and vanilla crème brulee which can be ordered ala carte. The Dragonfly Bistro has a refined kitchen, a moderately priced menu, and service that is professional and hospitable.

Join them Mondays for the Indonesian prix-fixe menu only. On Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday you can order from the ala carte menu. 5.30 - 9:00 pm for dinner. Open for lunch Wednesday, Thursday and Friday .

Please call in advance to make a reservation. 519.432.2191

Monday Night Indonesian Prix-Fixe Sample Menu - Menu Changes Monthly :

Daging Rendang
Beef marinade with coconut milk, chili, coriander, galangal, tamarind, lemon- grass, turmeric, lemon leaf, white pepper, garlic & red onion

Nasi Uduk
Yellow coconut rice with lemongrass, turmeric, Indonesian bay leaf and coconut milk

Bakmi Goreng
Indonesian-style fried egg noodles with bok choy, shredded cabbage and green onion

Acar Acar
Pickled Cucumber and Carrots

$20.00 per person

Dragonfly Bistro

715 Richmond Street

519 432 2191

dragonfly_bistro@yahoo.com