The Springs Restaurant on Springbank Drive - One of London, Ontario's Top Restaurants
The Springs on Springbank Drive - One of London Ontario's Top Restaurants
BY BRYAN LAVERY
The smartly
appointed Springs Restaurant, housed in a beautifully refurbished church consistently
receives rave reviews. Chef Andrew Wolwowicz’s innovative menus, list dishes
crafted from local, regional and quality seasonal ingredients. The gastronomic scope of Wolwowic's repertoire is influenced by a commitment to a steadfast philosophy that advances the economic, ecological and
social values of our local culinary and agricultural communities
Local entrepreneurs
and Wolwowicz's collaborators, Tim and Laura Owen wanted to integrate as much of
the original church as they could into the new restaurant. Unfortunately, they
learnt the church’s foundation was disintegrating. Instead they levelled the
church except for the original front vestibule, and rebuilt the structure from
the ground up using 6,000 of the existing yellow bricks and a slew of
additional identical bricks from 2 houses that were being demolished on
Riverside Drive.
During reconstruction a worker unearthed a
time capsule in the northeast corner of the church almost 100 years to the day
it had been buried. The windows are proportionally large, letting in light that
floods the restaurant exquisitely. The dining room seats 70, the beautifully
appointed patio 32 and the downstairs banquet room 40. The patio is an oasis unto itself.
A proponent of the open kitchen, Wolwowicz wanted to put a
public face on the people behind the food. “You know it's a good party when you end up in the kitchen” says, Wolwowicz. In collaboration
with the Owens, Wolwowicz was instrumental in helping to design every detail of
the restaurant and kitchen to create a welcoming and accessible environment.
There is an additional kitchen in the basement.
Wolwowicz has established
himself as a prominent figure in London’s culinary community. Wolwowicz cooks
at the full degree of his capability, with finely tuned instincts, skill,
dedication, precision, creativity and passion. The Springs procure the finest
locally grown products from farms specializing in sustainable agriculture, organic
growing practices and ethically raised livestock.
At lunch, The
Carnivore (one of the best sandwiches ever) consists of sous-vide pork cheeks combined
with perfectly braised duck leg confit, creamy soft Riviere rouge cheese,
skillet baked between rye bread, then, finished with a wild boar bacon
& date demi and then, garnished with a sunny side up egg.
Wolwowicz’s
culinary repertoire has included: luscious panko-crusted Crab Cakes made with
flaky back fin and delicate lump crab meat, and accompanied with a spicy sweet
chili sauce. The Wild Mushroom Tart with chorizo and caramelized shallots is
otherworldly.
Delectable Duck
Pierogies & Kung Fu Cabbage with shredded duck leg confit, sheep’s milk
cheese, Yukon gold potatoes served with Kung Fu Riesling braised Wakefield
cabbage and a pancetta cream reduction are the talk of the city.
Other
memorable menu winners include: Pan-Spanked Chicken served in a cast-iron
skillet then baked with a fruity extra virgin olive oil, lemon zest, pancetta
and fresh aromatics and served with a saffron scented cauliflower puree;
Cider-glazed Willowgrove Hills Farm’s Pork Tenderloin with an
apple-mustard-maple velouté,
green apple marmalade and parmesan potato dumplings; and Dijon Braised Rabbit
with roasted pear arancini (panko crusted risotto balls).
The signature
Teriyaki Prawn Penne is a menu staple, with jumbo prawns and forest mushrooms sautéed with a
julienne of peppers and sweet onions tossed with a spicy sweet teriyaki cream
sauce. Served mild, medium or yeow.
Wolwowicz
regards Monforte Dairy’s artisanal sheep’s milk cheeses as “exceptional.” One
of Chef’s preferences is Nica. Comparable to chèvre, it is amplified with
lavender and fermented organic garlic flower tops. This delicious cheese show
ups on both his Bruschetta Fajioli (white bean puree with seasoned tomatoes),
and his Wildwood Greens Duck Salad (medium-rare, pan-roasted, melt- in- your
mouth Magret of Duck with a medley of crisp seasonal greens, roasted beets,
hemp seeds and a citrus-wolfberry vinaigrette). The Harrar Espresso and carved loin of Crusted Venison served with a Jerusalem artichoke mash, chili & wild arugula greens finished
with a dark chocolate pomegranate gastrique is to die for.
The
restaurant has one of the best wine lists in the city
310
Springbank Drive; 519-657-1100
thespringsrestaurant.com
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