Is Tilapia a Sustainable Alternative?
Is Tilapia a Sustainable Alternative?
The ubiquitous tilapia is the broad name for nearly one
hundred species of fish. Farmed tilapia, a lean white fish with a generic flavour,
is the second-most popular farmed fish, after carp, according to Fisheries and
Oceans Canada. China is the leading producer of tilapia, British Columbia and
Nova Scotia also produce it commercially.
Tilapia has earned
a reputation in the food circles as “aquatic chicken” because it reproduces
easily, matures early, tastes bland and is an inexpensive alternative. Tilapia
is the model factory-farmed fish; it consumes pellets made largely of corn and
soy, easily converting a diet that is similar to cheap
chicken feed formulated to maximize growth and weight gain into into low-cost
seafood.
Tilapia appearing on a restaurant menu is generally my
litmus test to determine whether or not the kitchen is sourcing generic
products from a commercial distributor.
Sustainable Seafood
I became a proponent of sustainable seafood with the inception
of he Endangered Fish Alliance, when a group of concerned restaurateurs, chefs
and environmentalists joined staff members of the Toronto Enviroguide to
encourage its members to make environmentally wise choices by not serving four
endangered fish: swordfish, Chilean sea bass, orange roughy and certain types
of endangered caviar-egg-producing sturgeons.
Other endangered fish and seafood to avoid include: red grouper from the Gulf of
Mexico, blue and striped marlin, Atlantic cod, red king crab, imported mahi
mahi, , shark, swordfish, Atlantic halibut, imported shrimp, red snapper and several varieties of non-canned tuna.
The collapse of the cod stocks off Atlantic Canada in an
ocean once thought to be an inexhaustible supply of food epitomized one of the
most contentious environmental and natural resource management disasters of the
20th century. Fishing has always been a vital part of Canada’s economy and has
shaped the foundation of the social fabric of many of our coastal communities.
In 1992, the moratorium on cod fishing plunged 40,000
Atlantic Canadian fisherman and processing plant employees into unemployment.
In 2003, the Canadian government finally declared the northern Atlantic cod an
endangered species. It was thirty years ago that I first saw migrating salmon in the Fraser River in British Columbia, abundant and teeming in their awe-inspiring journey upstream to spawn at Hell's Gate. On our Pacific coast, one of the world’s great gastronomic luxuries — and once considered to be an everlasting resource — wild pacific salmon is disappearing.
I fear few people are aware that Atlantic salmon is now
predominately a farmed fish raised in Pacific coastal farms. The practice of farming
salmon began in Norway in the late 1960s and in Canada in the 1970s, in
response to the depletion of wild fish. Farmed salmon, once hailed as the
solution to the endangered stocks of wild salmon, have become among the most
ubiquitous and affordable fresh fish in North American kitchens and
restaurants. But along with farmed tilapia and farmed shrimp, farmed salmon is among the principal
aquaculture controversies that we should be paying closer attention to.
Salmon is bred in ocean based pens rife with relentless
organic contaminants, anemic-looking farmed salmon are fed chemical growth agents and
dyes to give them their colour and enhance their appearance. Farmed
salmon is also generally acknowledged origin of the prevalence of sea lice and
attendant diseases in our wild fish stocks. Fish farmers use pesticides in
their fish feed pellets to stop the threat of sea lice. Practices such as these
make me question whether or not the variety of fish we eat may be less
important than what the fish we’re dining on has been fed or eaten itself.
Several years ago, Sustainable Seafood Canada, a national
coalition of non-profit environmental groups, initiated SeaChoice (http://www.seachoice.org/), a comprehensive
Canadian program that raises awareness and delivers solutions for sustainable
fisheries. Part of the SeaChoice mandate is to rank seafood by sustainability
and educate consumers, retailers and suppliers about the country of origin, how
it is caught, its journey from sea to market, and how to effectively manage
their inventory.
Choosing seafood wisely requires developing an awareness of
the environmental and moral issues at hand, and informing ourselves about which
species are and are not being overexploited. At the same time, as consumers we
need to be mindful of which varieties are fished (line or trawl net) or farmed
in an ethical manner that is renewable and won’t jeopardize the future of the
species or the destruction of marine habitat and attendant bycatch. (Bycatch
being the fish and marine life that is caught and most often killed as a side
effect of fishers pursuing a targeted, more commercial, species.) The more
ethically minded consumers, chefs and culinary enthusiasts that informed, targeted
boycotts of endangered species can make a significant difference in our eating
preferences. An estimated 70 percent of fish in North America is consumed in
restaurants.
We should avoid catch from the top end of the deep-sea food
chain and think about fish and seafood that are less commercially important and
underutilized. At the top of the food chain are big luxury fish like blue fin
tuna, Chilean sea bass, shark and swordfish. All have been seriously depleted
and are not good ethical or sustainable choices.
There is also a need for labeling laws that state country of
origin, whether the fish has been farmed or fished, whether it has been
previously frozen and thawed, and whether or not the fish is certified
sustainable. It has become increasingly important to continue to raise
awareness and bring about self-imposed moratoriums on purchasing and supporting
restaurants that continue to serve endangered fish stocks.
A partial answer to finding the best environmental and
sustainable choices for seafood is a program run by the Marine Stewardship
Council (www.msc.org). The Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) is a
self-determining, non-profit organization that has established global
environmental criteria for sustainable and well managed fisheries. .
The MSC has developed standards for sustainable fishing and
seafood traceability. Both standards meet the world's toughest best practice
guidelines and are helping to transform global seafood markets. The MSC seeks
to connect consumer preference for products from sustainable fisheries by the
use of its blue MSC eco- label. When fish is purchased that has the eco- label,
it indicates that the fishery operates in an environmentally responsible way
and does not contribute to the global problem of overfishing.
In his book The Omnivore’s Dilemma, a treatise on the
greater moral issues surrounding what we choose to eat and the impact of our
choices, author Michael Pollan states, “Fishing is the last economically
important hunter-gatherer food chain, even though this foraging economy is
rapidly giving way to aquaculture, for the same reason that hunting wild game
succumbed to raising livestock. It is depressing though not at all difficult to
imagine our grandchildren living in a world in which fishing for a living is
history.”
It is important to know where your fish is sourced and what you are eating underneath all that batter.
Read more about sustainable fish on Ocean Wise.
http://www.oceanwise.ca/about
Read more about sustainable fish on Ocean Wise.
http://www.oceanwise.ca/about
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