Remind Me To Tell You About The Time I Looked Into The Heart of an Artichoke.

Ontario’s Southwest Culinary Tourism Guide Wins Provincial Award

2012-02-06T09:50:00.000-08:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Ontario’s Southwest Culinary Tourism Guide wins provincial award for Tourism Specialty Brochure/Map/Guide of the year.

London ON, February 6, 2012 – Ontario’s Southwest Culinary Tourism Guide was honoured at EDCO’s 55th Annual Conference & Showcase at the Toronto Marriott Downtown. The Economic Developers Council of Ontario is an independent, non-profit, incorporated association engaged in economic development.

Ontario’s Southwest 2011 Culinary Tourism Guide was named best Tourism Specialty Brochure/Map/Guide of the year. This publication was also nominated for Lieutenant Governor’s Award for Marketing Excellence in Ontario. The recipient of that award was the London Economic Development Corporation in recognition of the contribution of the LEDC’s “Tomorrow in London, Canada” video.

In its 2010 – The State of the Culinary Tourism Industry Readiness Index, International Culinary Tourism Association cites Ontario as one of three world-wide leaders in culinary tourism among the nine countries surveyed. The province is characterized as a “hotspot” based on the level of culinary tourism activity in community, education, development and promotion.

Ontario’s Southwest 2011 Culinary Tourism Guide takes a strategic approach to presenting the newly formed RTO 1 Tourism region for the advancement of each region’s culinary stakeholders, and in particular the nine unique destinations that comprise the newly formed tourism region. The project was produced by the Southwest Ontario Tourism Corporation formally RTO 1 Transition Group and funded by the Government of Ontario.

The publication benefited from the dedicated collaboration of Chris McDonell, publisher of eatdrink magazine, Marco Di Carlo and Shane Stuart of Velocity Studio who provided the innovative art direction, design, layout & web site development, and culinary tourism consultant and food writer Bryan Lavery.

Dining is consistently rated as one of the top three favourite tourist activities. There is a high correlation between tourists who are interested in wine/cuisine and those interested in museums, shows, shopping, music and film festivals and outdoor recreation (Quantified Marketing Group 2010). Deliberate culinary tourists accounted for 15.2 percent of all Ontario-destination trips, generating $816.0 million of total trip-related expenditures.

A reference set of criteria was developed to determine inclusion in the guide. This criterion was employed to evaluate and highlight each destination’s distinct regional culinary tourism’s assets and promote the mandate of culinary tourism’s farm to table philosophy. The guide provides travelers with an overview of restaurants, wineries, retail shops, producers, products and farmers’ markets that are noted for their abundance of local, seasonal options, and showcase the best of what each destination has to offer.

The Culinary Guide is currently available at tourist destinations all over Ontario’s Southwest and a digital version is available at www.ontariossouthwestculinary.com.

For more information, contact: Bryan Lavery blavery@eatdrink.ca

Le Chien Noir Bistro Kingston, Ontario

2012-01-22T14:05:00.000-08:00

Le Chien Noir Bistro Kingston, Ontario

Le Chien Noir is a renowned French-inspired bistro serving updated, iconic classics innovatively presented: onion soup, upscale poutine with Quebec triple cream brie and peppercorn-cognac jus, impeccably cooked flat iron steak with fresh addictive frites, crispy duck confit and steamed mussels. What draws us to Le Chien Noir (besides a knowledgable recommendation from Holly Doughty, Innkeeper, Rosemount Inn and Spa) is its idiosyncratic take on farm- to-table culinary regionalism, accompanied by a stellar list of VQA wines, many from nearby Prince Edward County. Chef Derek MacGregor has a reputation for referencing both the local terroir and the quintessence of French county fare for inspiration. MacGregor is a proponent of Kingston's Local Food - Local Chefs initiative which raises awareness of the abundance of regional food products, producers and chefs in the area.

Located steps from the Kingston's historic Market Square (established in 1801) just a few blocks from the waterfront, the restaurant is situated on the Brock Street Common. Lower Brock Street has been an established commercial area since the 1820's. Le Chien Noir is situated in a stylishly refurbished and renovated Victorian premises designed to preserve and enhance the historical features of the building. The restaurant has been a culinary destination since its inception in 2000. A diverse and discerning clientele frequents the vibrant, engaging, comfortable restaurant with faux tin ceiling, retro art deco lighting fixtures, exposed brick walls, wood surfaces and mirrored accents. The long and spacious zinc bar at the entrance is a focal point with its large crystal chandeliers.

Chef's cooking philosophy is straightforward - unadorned, quality- fresh ingredients, well- prepared. Chef is committed to sourcing ingredients locally and regionally as much as possible. There is an enviable representation of east coast seafood on the menu. Fresh oysters ("Green Gables" P.E.I. and "St. Simon" New Brunswick), Sustainable Nova Scotia sea bass and fresh Nova Scotia lobster are patriotic ingredients. The duck and foie gras both originate in la belle province. At this time of year, the lamb we are told is New Zealand Spring.

For starters, there is an interesting "Winter Salad" with Verlinden farm (Norfolk County) endive, radicchio, crumbled Glengarry County Celtic Blue, candied pecans, crispy pig's ears and port vinaigrette. A grilled cheese appetizer is reminicent of croque monsieur, served with seed to sausage sopressata, sourdough bread and creamy mornay sauce of le tomme de demoiselles (made from raw whole milk supplied from a single herd of Canadian cows whose feed comes entirely from the Magdalen Islands region). The appetizer is accompanied by a cup of roasted tomato soup which was deliciously bisque-like. A blackboard appetizer special of seared slices of rare duck breast, jumped-up curried sweet potato fricassee and green apple calvados sauce is also memorable.

I had my heart set on one of the evening specials: Pork and Boar Duo with Trillium Meadows (Vankleek Hill) wild boar chop, local Berkshire pork tenderloin, parsnip puree, sweet potato-brown butter pudding, caramelized brussels sprouts and maple-bourbon jus. We had an 8 o'clock reservation on a busy night, by the time we languished over the wine list, finally chosing a Norman Hardie 2010 Riesling, the duo was sold out. Instead, I opted for the pot-au-feu, a crispy and moist confit of duck leg, mouth-watering house-made duck heart sausage, al dente vegetables and broth. There is also a house-made and locally sourced charcuterie and Canadian-sourced artisan cheese plate. Our attentive and knowledgable server, Leah, tells us that chef's signature recipes are rarely comprised of more than 6-7 ingredients.

Pastry Chef Michael McPhail's crème brulée with Madagascar vanilla is a classic. Other desserts are playful and nostalgic with ingredients that would seem to contradict one another. Deep fried apple cheesecake, caramel and barely blue ice cream is a juxtaposition of disparate flavours as are poached pears, chambord, chocolate and chipotle. The only fly in the ointment in a near perfect experience is that the pastry on the deep fried apple cheesecake is too dense and unfortunately overcooked and saturated with oil. Notwithstanding we still give the kitchen very high marks.

Originally from Summerstown, Ontario; chef's culinary oeuvre includes the National Arts Council in Ottawa; followed by a stint at the French Embassy. While in Ottawa, MacGregor cooked at both Parliament Hill and 24 Sussex Dr.

There is also a large selection of European draughts, local micro-brews and highbrow cocktails (try the Apropos - a bittersweet concoction of Victoria gin, aperol, chartreuse, lime and orange) on offer along with an extensive, ever-changing wine list, many available by the glass. I was not familiar with aperol and the attentive staff promptly furnished me with a computer print out of its history. Aperol's ingredients are, among others, bitter orange, gentian, rhubarb, and cinchona.

In season there is a private heated outdoor courtyard terrace with umbrellaed tables and a small fountain. There are an additional sixteen seats streetside.

69 Brock Street, Kingston, ON.
(613) 549-5635
info@lechiennoir.com

Launch of London’s Local Flavour - The 2012 Culinary Guide

2012-01-04T02:50:00.001-08:00

Launch of London’s Local Flavour - The 2012 Culinary Guide

London is a hot-spot of culinary activities and there are plenty of restaurateurs, cooks and culinary artisans who are advancing both the local flavour and our regional culinary identity. Many of these pioneers of the innovative and emerging culinary regionalism in Southwest Ontario’s agricultural heartland are profiled in London’s Local Flavour 2012 Culinary Guide. Our true culinary stars are not only our farmers, but also those labouring in restaurant, hotel and market kitchens throughout the city, offering up some of Canada’s finest food and drink experiences.

Culinary regionalism and the local food movement are not trends, but a transformation in the collective mindset of communities across Canada. When it comes to food what’s local is usually what is best. Culinary regionalism –a term that is not part of our general culinary lexicon yet - includes characteristic culinary and agricultural features special to a particular region. It recognizes uniqueness and the idiosyncratic characteristics and culture of the places where the food is produced and of the people who produce it. It respects and resonates with the rhythms of the seasons, and the distinctive features of the landscape. For many cooks, it means re-interpreting culture-specific culinary specialities with home-grown ingredients and techniques intrinsic to a precise geographic area. For others it means rediscovering time-honoured indigenous recipes handed down by generations.

Nowhere is the love of all things culinary more evident than in the rise of culinary tourism in Ontario. London is a natural magnet for this and, in fact, culinary tourism is booming in our city and all around us. Authentic culinary tourism is the experiential ‘taste’ of a place rooted in its terroir. It starts with agriculture and the people who grow our food.

London’s Local Flavour confirms what we have found after scrutinizing hundreds of local and regional menus, website and social media communications. Londoners are not just advocating “eating and drinking local” and “eating seasonal,” they are actively and creatively enhancing and developing new region-specific cuisines. Likewise, more and more sustainable and ethical options such as vegan, vegetarian and organic are being offered. From farm to table, London’s culinary culture is cooking with flavour.

London’s Local Flavour has benefited from the dedicated collaboration of Tourism London, eatdrink magazine and culinary consultant and food writer Bryan Lavery.

If you would like more information on this topic, or to schedule an interview please contact Chris McDonell at chris@eatdrink.ca or Bryan Lavery at blavery@eatdrink.ca

The Springs and Chef Andrew Wolwowicz

2011-10-24T16:07:00.000-07:00

The Springs

The Springs is London’s newest and highly anticipated gourmet refuge on Springbank Drive, under the creative genius and culinary guidance of Chef Andrew Wolwowicz. The smartly appointed restaurant, housed in a beautifully refurbished church, has been operating since mid-October. We are already hearing rave reviews about Wolwowicz’s interesting menus, listing dishes crafted from local, regional and seasonal ingredients. Wolwowicz’s collaborators local entrepreneurs, Tim and Laura Owen, tell eatdrink that although they were initially hoping for a soft opening, the restaurant has been busy every single night since opening.

The Owens wanted to integrate as much of the original church as they could into the new restaurant, but they realized that the church’s foundation was disintegrating. Instead they levelled the church except for the original front vestibule, and rebuilt the structure from the ground up using 6,000 of the existing yellow bricks. Identical bricks from two houses that were being demolished on Riverside Drive shored up the project. During reconstruction a worker unearthed a time capsule in the northeast corner of the church almost 100 years to the day it had been buried.

The windows in the dining room are proportionally large, letting in light that floods the restaurant exquisitely. The dining room seats 70, the beautifully appointed patio 32 and the downstairs banquet room 40. The wall colours are muted, fresh, organic and natural. A commissioned painting of a tree by artist Jade Brown adds a thought-provoking focal point and ambience to the entrance.

A proponent of the open kitchen, Wolwowicz wanted to put a public face on the people behind the food. “You know it's a good party when you end up in the kitchen” says, Wolwowicz. In collaboration with the Owens, Wolwowicz was instrumental in helping to design every detail of the restaurant and kitchen to create a welcoming and accessible environment. There is an additional prep/pastry kitchen in the basement.

A “local” culinary ambassador with over 20 years of expertise in professional kitchens, Wolwowicz has established himself as a prominent figure in London’s culinary community. Wolwowicz chefs at the full degree of his capability, with finely tuned instincts, skill, dedication, precision, creativity and passion. The Springs are proud to use the finest locally grown products from farms specializing in sustainable agriculture, organic growing practices and ethically raised livestock.

The talk around town is about Wolwowicz’s culinary gymnastics: delectable panko-crusted Crab Cakes made with flaky back fin and delicate lump crab meat, and accompanied with a spicy sweet chili sauce. The Wild Mushroom Tart with chorizo and caramelized shallots is otherworldly. Early menu winners include: Pan-Spanked Chicken served in a cast-iron skillet then baked with a fruity extra virgin olive oil, lemon zest, pancetta and fresh aromatics and served with a saffron scented cauliflower puree; Cider-glazed Willowgrove Hills Farm’s Pork Tenderloin with an apple-mustard-maple velouté, green apple marmalade and parmesan potato dumplings; and Dijon Braised Rabbit with roasted pear arancini (panko crusted risotto balls).

Wolwowicz regards Monforte Dairy’s artisanal sheep’s milk cheeses as “exceptional.” One of Chef’s preferences is Nica. Comparable to chèvre, it is amplified with lavender and fermented organic garlic flower tops. This delicious cheese shows up on both his Bruschetta Fajioli (white bean puree with seasoned tomatoes), and his Wildwood Greens Duck Salad (medium-rare, pan-roasted, melt- in- your- mouth magret of duck with a medley of crisp seasonal greens, roasted beets, hemp seeds and a citrus-wolfberry vinaigrette). The Espresso and Black Pepper Crusted Venison Loin served with beet, parsnip and celery root frites, chilli arugula salad and a chocolate pomegranate gastrique (classically inspired sweet and sour sauce) is to die for. The Springs is well on its way to being a regional culinary landmark.

310 Springbank Drive; 519-657-1100

Culinary Tourism in Ontario’s Southwest

2011-09-19T05:53:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Culinary Tourism in Ontario’s Southwest
Ontario’s Southwest Culinary Tourism Guide is the first of its kind. As a long- time proponent of culinary tourism I was pleased to help identify and showcase the diversity of culinary tourism experiences found in Ontario’s Southwest. The ultimate goal of the publication is to strengthen Ontario’s Southwest, as both a premium and viable emerging culinary tourism region.

The mandate of the Ontario’s Southwest Culinary Tourism Guide is to sustain, support and differentiate the long-term marketing of authentic culinary tourism experiences in Ontario’s Southwest. This guide takes a strategic approach to presenting the newly formed RTO 1 Tourism region for the advancement of each region’s culinary stakeholders, and in particular the nine unique destinations that comprise the newly formed tourism region.

Nowhere is that love of all things food more evident than in the rise of culinary tourism. Culinary tourism, as defined by Rebecca Le Heup, Executive Director of the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance, “Includes tourism experiences in which one learns about, appreciates and or consumes food and drink that reflects regional or national cuisine, heritage, culture, tradition or culinary techniques. Culinary tourism is all about experiencing an authentic ‘taste’ of a place rooted in its terroir. It starts with agriculture and the people who grow our food. It moves to the artisans that craft the ingredients into tastes such as wine, cheese and beer. It travels to the plate through the craft of the cook and chef.”

The culinary guide is a combined initiative of the tourism authorities of Chatham-Kent, Elgin County, Haldimand County, City of London, Middlesex County, Norfolk County, Oxford County, Sarnia-Lambton, Windsor-Essex-Pelee and the Ontario Ministry of Tourism and Culture.

My colleagues and I collaborated with the DMO’s (Destination Marketing Organizations) and followed a “reference set” of criteria developed to determine inclusion in the guide. This criterion was employed to evaluate and highlight each destination’s distinct regional culinary assets. We identified assets that embrace and promote the mandate of culinary tourism’s farm to table philosophy. The guide provides travelers with an overview of restaurants, wineries, retail shops, producers, products and farmers’ markets that are noted for their abundance of local, seasonal options, and showcase the best of what each destination has to offer.

100,000 printed copies of this guide have been made available at local farmers’ markets, restaurants, wineries and tourism authorities throughout Ontario’s Southwest. The Southwest Ontario Culinary Guide is supported and enhanced with digital media by a “flip book” version, and a short video. Anyone with a smart phone is able to scan and read the QR codes to connect to the individual destination culinary micro sites. The traveler is greeted with information on each particular regional destination along with destination specific culinary packages.

The Culinary guide has aligned its approach with that of the 10 year Culinary and Tourism Strategy and Action Plan and the Ontario Marketing Partnership Corporation (OTMPC). In addition to marketing existing authentic culinary tourism experiences, events and attractions, Southwest Ontario’s Culinary Tourism Guide fosters innovation and creativity by providing a fresh medium where new trends are identified, established and nurtured to ensure the development of the emerging culinary tourism sector.

A key consideration in developing this initiative was a solid understanding of the target audiences: Baby boomers age 35+ with a propensity to travel, 4-6 times annually, mainly getaways that include: culture, dining and culinary experiences, winery tours and experiential culinary attractions and events. The targeted demographic has an above –average degree of sophistication and level of knowledge about the latest trends in culinary experiences and products. The guide is directed at Canadian and American visitors who have a predisposition to access online sites and to use technology to research travel destinations.

Ontario’s Southwest is a hot-spot of culinary activities and there are plenty of farmers, fisherman, chefs and culinary artisans who are advancing their regional and local culinary identities. These are the stars of the new and emerging culinary tourism in Ontario’s Southwest agricultural heartland. Meet the proud people who grow our food and produce our beverages.

Today, both the urban and rural landscapes of Ontario’s Southwest are dotted with producer-based Farmers’ Markets and Farmgate Markets. Local chefs are committed to promoting their local foods and buying it directly from the hands that grow and craft it. They are the pioneers of a new and emerging culinary regionalism in Southwest Ontario’s agricultural heartland.

Chefs like Tracy Winkworth at the Bellworth House in Norfolk, Eric Boyar at sixthirtynine in Oxford, Kim Saunders at the Windjammer Inn in Elgin and Dan Megna and Laurie Lilliman at the Twisted Apron in Haldimand all speak to their terroir and culinary provenance through locally sourced seasonal menus.

The cities of London and Windsor offer every possible dining experience. Visionary chefs like Jason Shubert and Paul Harding of The Only on King, Kristian Crossen at Braise, Wade Fitzgerald at Garlic's of London, Danijel Markovic of Kantina are known for advancing seasonality and local specialty ingredients by crafting seminal cooking experiences in their kitchens. In Windsor-Essex, Trevor and Kim Loop at Jack's Gastropub & Inn 31, Kate Robinson at The Twisted Apron, Rino Bortolin at Rino's Kitchen, Janine Bratt at Taste Bud Bistro and Laura Clarke-Giberson at Caldwell's Grant are all committed to unique locally sourced menus and VQA wine selections.

Travelers, consumers, locavores, epicures and foodies can read the Ontario’s Southwest Culinary Tourism Guide by visiting the website at http://www.ontariossouthwest.ca/ and search for individual destinations.

Local Food News

July 30th was Food Day, the largest locavore event in Canada’s history. Canadians en masse celebrated the day by eating local food, in restaurants, at barbecues and cooking. According to a survey from BMO Bank of Montreal, 94% of Canadians believe it is important to purchase home-grown food. The study identified other notable trends. Albertans prefer local beef, Quebecers look for local maple syrup and 76% of Ontarians surveyed seek out local fruit.

More and more consumers are touting the value of “local foods, often described as “healthy,” “natural,” “eco-conscious,” and “sustainable.” According to Sustainable Food News, "local" as a marketing tool, has grown by 15 percent from 2009 to 2010, and those numbers continue to increase.

The New Oxford American Dictionary selected locavore, a person who seeks out locally produced food, as its word of the year in 2007. Since the term locavore entered the culinary lexicon, it seems to be on the tip of everybody’s tongue. Originally, the term was coined in San Francisco by Jessica Prentice, for the 2005 World Environment Day, to describe consumers who choose locally produced foods over other high-carbon-footprint options.

In 2007, highly respected author Barbara Kingsolver wrote the bestselling book, Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, emphasizing the value of eating locally and detailing her family’s attempt to eat locally grown food for an entire year. This book helped bring the local food movement to the forefront.

Last year, journalist, part culinary zeitgeist, and urban farmer, Sarah Elton, wrote the book, Locavore: From Farmers’ Fields to Rooftop Gardens, How Canadians are Changing the Way We Eat. Elton’s book champions the movement away from global food production, as the emphasis on local food, sustainability, terroir and culinary tourism continues to gain momentum across Canada. Elton writes with a steady focus on Canadian farmers, artisanal producers, cheese makers, chefs, restaurateurs, farmers’ markets, and regular folks who are creating sustainable alternatives to agribusiness and the current global food system.

Recently, Lynn Ogryzlo, a well- respected, Niagara food and wine and travel writer authored the book, The Ontario Table: featuring the best food from around the province. With the premise that food is the foundation of our culture, like Elton, Ogryzlo allows the readers a behind-the-scenes journey into the local-food movement. Ogryzlo’s book is an overview of the Ontario terroir and the collective culinary and agricultural sensibility showcasing some of the best culinary regionalism from around the province. After two years of travelling Ontario for local foods, Ogryzlo concedes that she has “just skimmed the surface.” This book with its superb photography by her husband, Jon Ogryzlo, and local and seasonal recipes featuring Ontario wines from across the province is a must-read.

Ontario’s Southwest 2011 Culinary Tourism Guide

2011-09-19T01:37:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Ontario’s Southwest 2011 Culinary Tourism Guide

We are a leading destination for culinary travel and boast some of Canada’s finest culinary regionalism.

Whether you’re dining in one of our fine restaurants, sipping wine at a vineyard, or travelling country back roads with a picnic lunch of local ingredients, the Ontario’s Southwest food scene is a hothouse for talent and flavour. Veterans abound, but we have a new wave of innovation sweeping through the culinary programs of St. Clair College in Windsor, Lambton, College in Sarnia, and Fanshawe College in London, which are supporting the vanguard of emerging chefs dedicated to local ingredients.

This is the gateway to the perfect culinary getaway. Experience the authentic local flavour of Ontario’s Southwest. Your journey begins here, where we sweep in a southwestern direction from Haldimand County, where the picturesque Grand River meets the shore of Lake Erie, through bountiful farms, charming towns and vibrant cities to beautiful Pelee Island, Canada’s southernmost tip.

Meet some of our superstars in the Ontario’s Southwest 2011 Culinary Tourism Guide:

View Ontarioès Southwest Culinary Guide

VISIT: http://www.ontariossouthwestculinary.com for more details

Downtown London Walking/Tasting Culinary Tours

2011-08-28T16:37:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Authentic Culinary Adventures

Downtown London Walking/Tasting Culinary Tours

Take your appetite for an Authentic Culinary Adventure into downtown London with a local epicure as your guide. On this culinary walking/tasting tour visit the Covent Garden Market, food/kitchen shops and restaurants with an emphasis on locally sourced and produced products. Tours run rain or shine. Cost of the Tour: $25.00 per person. Allow 2 hours and wear comfortable shoes. Pay your guide directly in cash. From September 15 to May 15th tours are by reservation only. Groups welcome by reservation. authenticculinarytours@yahoo.com

Downtown London Dining Adventure

The Downtown Dining District Culinary Adventure is the city’s original and signature culinary/tasting tour. Visit 3 restaurants, taste 3 seasonal specialities with an emphasis on locally sourced and produced products, and enjoy a sampling of VQA wine at each venue. Authentic Culinary Adventures has transformed the way you dine. Why visit one restaurant when you can experience 3 different, popular restaurants all in one night out? As you stroll from one restaurant to the next, learn about the history of downtown London. This is an approximately 2 1/2 hour walking and culinary tasting tour offered Thursdays at 7:00 PM for groups of 6 or more. Private tours can be scheduled for other days and times. Reservations are required.

authenticculinarytours@yahoo.com

Taste of Huron and West Coast Bluesfest Media Release

2011-08-24T11:50:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Taste of Huron and West Coast Bluesfest

Hello All,

Please read attached news release.

Due to the tragic events caused by the tornado that struck Goderich and area on Sunday, August 21, 2011, the organizing committees of Taste of Huron and West Coast Bluesfest have made the decision to CANCEL the events scheduled for Labour Day weekend in Goderich.

The Food For Though dinners and Gala dinner are still planned to go ahead, with a portion of all Taste of Huron ticket sales being donated to the Goderich Tornado Relief Fund.

Both committees are re-focusing their efforts on organizing a fundraiser in early fall, with all proceeds going towards the Goderich Tornado Relief Fund through the United Way of Perth-Huron.

Please send the attached out to as many media as possible, it is hard for us to send out to everyone with the limited resources we have.

My office is currently closed, so for interviews and to talk to me, call me on my cell at 519-440-2673.

Thanks,
Jenna

Taste Your Way Across Ontario’s Southwest

2011-08-05T12:49:00.000-07:00

Taste Your Way Across Ontario’s Southwest

Earlier this summer, I wrote and researched the inaugural Culinary Tourism Guide for Ontario’s Southwest which was published by Chris McDonell of eatdrink for Tourism Ontario. Working with McDonell, Project Manager Kathy McLaughlin, and design and layout experts, Marco di Carlo and Shane Stuart of Velocity studios who developed the accompanying website was an interesting learning curve. This guide is the first of its kind. As a long- time proponent of culinary tourism I was pleased to help identify and showcase the diversity of culinary tourism experiences found in Ontario’s Southwest. The ultimate goal of the publication is to strengthen Ontario’s Southwest, as both a premium and viable emerging culinary tourism region.

The mandate of the Ontario’s Southwest Culinary Tourism Guide is to sustain, support and differentiate the long-term marketing of authentic culinary tourism experiences in Ontario’s Southwest. This guide takes a strategic approach to presenting the newly formed RTO 1 Tourism region for the advancement of each region’s culinary stakeholders, and in particular the nine unique destinations that comprise the newly formed tourism region.

Nowhere is that love of all things food more evident than in the rise of culinary tourism. Culinary tourism, as defined by Rebecca Le Heup, Executive Director of the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance, “Includes tourism experiences in which one learns about, appreciates and or consumes food and drink that reflects regional or national cuisine, heritage, culture, tradition or culinary techniques. Culinary tourism is all about experiencing an authentic ‘taste’ of a place rooted in its terroir. It starts with agriculture and the people who grow our food. It moves to the artisans that craft the ingredients into tastes such as wine, cheese and beer. It travels to the plate through the craft of the cook and chef.”

The culinary guide is a combined initiative of the tourism authorities of Chatham-Kent, Elgin County, Haldimand County, City of London, Middlesex County, Norfolk County, Oxford County, Sarnia-Lambton, Windsor-Essex-Pelee and the Ontario Ministry of Tourism and Culture.

My colleagues and I collaborated with the DMO’s (Destination Marketing Organizations) and followed a “reference set” of criteria developed to determine inclusion in the guide. This criterion was employed to evaluate and highlight each destination’s distinct regional culinary assets. We identified assets that embrace and promote the mandate of culinary tourism’s farm to table philosophy. The guide provides travelers with an overview of restaurants, wineries, retail shops, producers, products and farmers’ markets that are noted for their abundance of local, seasonal options, and showcase the best of what each destination has to offer.

100,000 printed copies of this guide have been made available at local farmers’ markets, restaurants, wineries and tourism authorities throughout Ontario’s Southwest. The Southwest Ontario Culinary Guide is supported and enhanced with digital media by a “flip book” version, and a short video. Anyone with a smart phone is able to scan and read the QR codes to connect to the individual destination culinary micro sites. The traveler is greeted with information on each particular regional destination along with destination specific culinary packages.

The Culinary guide has aligned its approach with that of the 10 year Culinary and Tourism Strategy and Action Plan and the Ontario Marketing Partnership Corporation (OTMPC). In addition to marketing existing authentic culinary tourism experiences, events and attractions, Southwest Ontario’s Culinary Tourism Guide fosters innovation and creativity by providing a fresh medium where new trends are identified, established and nurtured to ensure the development of the emerging culinary tourism sector.

A key consideration in developing this initiative was a solid understanding of the target audiences: Baby boomers age 35+ with a propensity to travel, 4-6 times annually, mainly getaways that include: culture, dining and culinary experiences, winery tours and experiential culinary attractions and events. The targeted demographic has an above –average degree of sophistication and level of knowledge about the latest trends in culinary experiences and products. The guide is directed at Canadian and American visitors who have a predisposition to access online sites and to use technology to research travel destinations.

Ontario’s Southwest is a hot-spot of culinary activities and there are plenty of farmers, fisherman, chefs and culinary artisans who are advancing their regional and local culinary identities. These are the stars of the new and emerging culinary tourism in Ontario’s Southwest agricultural heartland. Meet the proud people who grow our food and produce our beverages.

Today, both the urban and rural landscapes of Ontario’s Southwest are dotted with producer-based Farmers’ Markets and Farmgate Markets. Local chefs are committed to promoting their local foods and buying it directly from the hands that grow and craft it. They are the pioneers of a new and emerging culinary regionalism in Southwest Ontario’s agricultural heartland.

Chefs like Tracy Winkworth at the Bellworth House in Norfolk, Eric Boyar at sixthirtynine in Oxford, Kim Saunders at the Windjammer Inn in Elgin and Dan Megna and Laurie Lilliman at the Twisted Apron in Haldimand all speak to their terroir and culinary provenance through locally sourced seasonal menus.

The cities of London and Windsor offer every possible dining experience. Visionary chefs like Jason Shubert and Paul Harding of The Only on King, Kristian Crossen at Braise, Wade Fitzgerald at Garlic's of London, Danijel Markovic of Kantina are known for advancing seasonality and local specialty ingredients by crafting seminal cooking experiences in their kitchens. In Windsor-Essex, Trevor and Kim Loop at Jack's Gastropub & Inn 31, Kate Robinson at The Twisted Apron, Rino Bortolin at Rino's Kitchen, Janine Bratt at Taste Bud Bistro and Laura Clarke-Giberson at Caldwell's Grant are all committed to unique locally sourced menus and VQA wine selections.

Travelers, consumers, locavores, epicures and foodies can read the Ontario’s Southwest Culinary Tourism Guide by visiting the website at http://www.ontariossouthwest.ca/ and search for individual destinations.

Local Food News

July 30th was Food Day, the largest locavore event in Canada’s history. Canadians en masse celebrated the day by eating local food, in restaurants, at barbecues and cooking. According to a survey from BMO Bank of Montreal, 94% of Canadians believe it is important to purchase home-grown food. The study identified other notable trends. Albertans prefer local beef, Quebecers look for local maple syrup and 76% of Ontarians surveyed seek out local fruit.

More and more consumers are touting the value of “local foods, often described as “healthy,” “natural,” “eco-conscious,” and “sustainable.” According to Sustainable Food News, "local" as a marketing tool, has grown by 15 percent from 2009 to 2010, and those numbers continue to increase.

The New Oxford American Dictionary selected locavore, a person who seeks out locally produced food, as its word of the year in 2007. Since the term locavore entered the culinary lexicon, it seems to be on the tip of everybody’s tongue. Originally, the term was coined in San Francisco by Jessica Prentice, for the 2005 World Environment Day, to describe consumers who choose locally produced foods over other high-carbon-footprint options.

In 2007, highly respected author Barbara Kingsolver wrote the bestselling book, Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, emphasizing the value of eating locally and detailing her family’s attempt to eat locally grown food for an entire year. This book helped bring the local food movement to the forefront.

Last year, journalist, part culinary zeitgeist, and urban farmer, Sarah Elton, wrote the book, Locavore: From Farmers’ Fields to Rooftop Gardens, How Canadians are Changing the Way We Eat. Elton’s book champions the movement away from global food production, as the emphasis on local food, sustainability, terroir and culinary tourism continues to gain momentum across Canada. Elton writes with a steady focus on Canadian farmers, artisanal producers, cheese makers, chefs, restaurateurs, farmers’ markets, and regular folks who are creating sustainable alternatives to agribusiness and the current global food system.

Recently, Lynn Ogryzlo, a well- respected, Niagara food and wine and travel writer authored the book, The Ontario Table: featuring the best food from around the province. With the premise that food is the foundation of our culture, like Elton, Ogryzlo allows the readers a behind-the-scenes journey into the local-food movement. Ogryzlo’s book is an overview of the Ontario terroir and the collective culinary and agricultural sensibility showcasing some of the best culinary regionalism from around the province. After two years of travelling Ontario for local foods, Ogryzlo concedes that she has “just skimmed the surface.” This book with its superb photography by her husband, Jon Ogryzlo, and local and seasonal recipes featuring Ontario wines from across the province is a must-read.

Ontario's Southwest Culinary Tourism Guide

2011-07-26T06:33:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Ontario's Southwest Culinary Tourism Guide

www.ontariossouthwestculinary.com

Windsor Eats and Eat Your City

2011-07-19T13:17:00.000-07:00

Windsor Eats and Eat Your City

On a recent trip to Windsor with the new Ontario’s Southwest Culinary Tourism Guide (http://www.ontariossouthwestculinary.com/) in hand, I was not surprised by the vibrancy of the culinary culture in Windsor. Here is a bit of an update.

It’s time to celebrate Windsor’s and Essex’s culinary community. From August 1 to August 7, 2011, you can visit any Eat Your City participating restaurant and indulge in a prix-fixe 3-course meal at lunch or dinner. Each participating restaurant will offer a unique Eat Your City menu. http://windsoreats.com/eatyourcity/ The menus will showcase the diversity of dining choices in Windsor and around Essex County. The prix-fixe menus are priced per person and do not include beverages, taxes or gratuities. Here are three participating restaurants that offer local, seasonal fare and are committed supporting local farmers and culinary tourism :

Rino’s Kitchen
Located within The House (formerly the Nesbitt Inn), Chef Rino Bortolin offers a full neighbourhood café menu that changes daily. The focus is on high quality, seasonal and local ingredients and supporting area growers. Specialty items prepared by Bortolin are also offered for sale. There is a beautiful outdoor patio.
131 Elliot Street, Windsor

Jack’s Gastropub & Inn 31
Jack’s Gastropub is the evolution of a 20-year career in hospitality. Family owned and operated by Trevor and Kim Loop since 1989, the restaurant features signature burgers and other pub-inspired house specialities, with an “only local” wine list. The owners take pride in sourcing local produce, fish and meats for the menus, which change to provide patrons with the best seasonal offerings from both Essex County and other regional producers.
31 Division Street South, Kingsville

Caldwell's Grant
Chef Laura Clarke-Giberson, largely self- taught and cooking for over 15 years, sharpened her culinary skills in many area restaurants. Her culinary philosophy is "less is more," and simple seasonings and careful preparation let flavours shine through. Caldwell's Grant, steak and seafood specialists, sources food products as close to home as possible, partnering with farmers who have a commitment to ethical practices and supporting responsible and sustainable fishing practices
269 Dalhousie Street, Amherstburg

WindsorEats.com is the official culinary guide to Windsor and Essex County. Get information on wineries, farms, restaurants and culinary attractions. Browse through listings to view hours of operations, location, make on-line reservations.

Multicultural Windsor-Essex enjoys a temperate climate, a vibrant economy, and plenty for the culinary tourist. As the southernmost point in all of Canada, Essex County and Pelee Island are at the same latitude as northern California. People flock from around the world to view the stunning bird migrations at Point Pelee, Carolinian Canada’s only National Park -- and the perfect place for a picnic. Lush farmlands and vineyards make this one of the most agriculturally productive counties in the country, and Essex County farmers are proud of their heritage and their 200-year-plus ties to the land. Windsor offers culturally diverse communities, richly ethnic neighbourhoods, and an extensive riverfront parks system, with over 215 parks and 3,000 acres of naturalized and formal gardens, and dining opportunities abound.

Over 400 restaurants in Windsor and Essex County reflect virtually every major culinary tradition, including a diversity of Italian, Chinese, Greek, Japanese, and Halal options. An unusually large number of eateries in Windsor include the enclave of fine restaurants on Erie Street’s restaurant row -- Little Italy or the “Via Italia” -- also home to some of the city’s best shopping. Browse kitchenware shops and grocery stores, savour regionally-inspired Italian cuisine at one of many ristorantes or trattorias, or just sit and relax while sipping an espresso at an outdoor cafe.

WindsorEats Wine Trail Ride
Join WindsorEats on a leisurely guided cycle tour and experience the tastes, sights and sounds of Essex County. You’ll be able to sip the local wine and learn about the regions award winning wineries. Participants on our Wine Trail Ride visit 2-3 wineries on each ride and are then treated to a local meal made with products from Essex County. www.winetrailride.ca.

Saturday August 20, 2011
Saturday September 17, 2011
Saturday October 15, 2011

Also, scroll down to see my posts about Motor City Burger and Taste Bud Bistro.

Janine Bratt’s Taste Bud Bistro at the Art Gallery of Windsor

2011-07-19T08:15:00.000-07:00

Janine Bratt’s Taste Bud Bistro at the Art Gallery of Windsor

Located inside the Art Gallery of Windsor, entry to this delightful riverfront bistro is accessible from the front without entering the gallery. There is an outdoor patio with comfortable wrought iron chairs for al fresco dining, and 14 foot windows inside the restaurant that also highlight a stellar view of the Detroit skyline. The dining room is minimalist with comfortable black chairs with white-clad tables that create an attractive domino effect against a dramatic raspberry coloured wall. The wall is enhanced by a blackboard featuring the menu. On the tables are small pitchers of perfect pink hydrangea blooms.

Chef/owner Janine Bratt, a 2006 graduate of the Stratford Chef School and a former chef at Caldwell's Grant in her hometown of Amherstburg. Bratt spent three seasons refining her skills at Rundles in Stratford. Bratt also spent time at Oliveto in Oakland, California; The Sooke Harbour House in Sooke; Fresco Restaurant in Kelowna; Café Boulud in New York City and Capo Restaurant in Calgary.

Bratt initially opened Taste Bud Food which features catering for small to large parties, as well as ready-to-heat lunches and dinners in the heart of Walkerville in 2009, and the Taste Bud Bistro was conceptualized the following year.

Taste Bud Bistro crafts innovative dishes using locally sourced, seasonal ingredients from Essex County farms and producers. “Customers love when I can come out and talk to them about their meal and about the farmers, and artisans that contributed,” says Bratt. The restaurant’s casual fine dining menu consists of a minimum of 25% locally sourced ingredients. Bratt’s chooses local products because of their superior freshness, quality and flavour. Bratt also places importance in supporting the local economy.

On a recent visit to the Bistro our charismatic server, Lauren, suggested a seasonal salad of raspberries, baby spinach, goat cheese and pecans. Also on offer was a delicious salad of white beans, crisp green beans, arugula and sweet cherry tomatoes.

Pickerel Nicoise is served with a julienne of potatoes, green beans and diced tomatoes. The pickerel was perfectly cooked in a lemon scented tempura batter that did not mask the delicate flavour of the fish. Vegan summer rolls were fresh and served with a gelatinous and fiery sweet chili sauce and accompanied with fresh mint picked from Bratt’s father’s herb garden.

There is a page dedicated to local vintages on the wine list, and we chose a crisp and elegant, CREW (Colchester Ridge Estates Winery) Sauvignon Blanc 2009 VQA, from Lake Erie’s North Shore on Lauren’s recommendation.

For dessert the chocolate mousse was stellar, served with Chantilly cream and toasted walnuts. House-made lavender ice cream was fragrant, subtly floral and refreshing. A frozen mint-lime cheesecake served with warm rum sauce was perfect for a hot summer afternoon.

The coffee is superior. The service was attentive, gracious and warm.

401 Riverside Drive West, Windsor, in the Art Gallery of Windsor
519 560 3665
www.tastebudbistro.com

The lunch menu is served from 11am till 3pm Wednesday through Sunday. The dinner menu is served from 5pm-9pm Thursday and Friday evenings. The Bistro is closed Monday and Tuesday.

The Modernist Gourmet Burger at Motor Burger in Windsor

2011-07-18T11:33:00.000-07:00

The Modernist Gourmet Burger at Motor Burger

This high-energy, gourmet hamburger hot-spot is a departure for Little Italy or “Via Italia”, (Erie Street East’s restaurant row), and perhaps even more poignant because it replaced the ultra-sleek, sophisticated and highly touted Noi, that closed in late 2009. “There was a time you had to fight for a table at Noi – but the recession sent a chill through Windsor’s Little Italy.”

Never ones to rest on their culinary laurels, savvy restaurateurs and business partners Jay Souillere and Gino Geusale responded to the change in Windsor’s lingering economic climate. They re-imagined the Noi premises and conceptualized the chic and funky, cow and car décor- themed Motor Burger. The fresh and original take on a contemporary burger joint was fashioned as a survival plan to the recession, and an intentional way to pay homage to Windsor’s automobile industry. The result was a stream-lined operation with a recession-friendly, gourmet menu that appeals to a broader demographic. Since its inception Motor Burger has garnered rave reviews and developed a dedicated following. On a recent hot summer Saturday night the restaurant was packed with devotees. The restaurant is family-friendly.

There is an open-kitchen at the back of the dining room that adds additional excitement to the ambience. Our engaging servers, Summer and Kelly were both down-to-earth, intelligent and hospitable. Another friendly server informs us, “last December, in an effort to go green, Motor Burger stopped serving imported bottled waters. Instead they installed a reverse osmosis system, which dispenses both regular and sparkling waters. Immediately we knew we were in good hands.

To start, a delicious salad of local watermelon, blueberries, peppery arugula, minced pear and zucchini, Kalamata olives and pickled red onion was both refreshing and seasonal. Spring rolls in phyllo pastry with a spicy chorizo-chili and smoked cheese were another hit.

The SMART Veg-Engine burger was designed to be a vegetarian’s nirvana, made with a patty of mushrooms, pumpkin seeds, corn, butter beans, garbanzo beans, lentils, garlic, curry and cilantro.

Other less common ingredients, such as Kobe beef brisket, or a minced shrimp burger with chilies, garlic, coconut milk and avocado and mango salsa are on offer. There is also a ground Ahi-tuna burger with sesame oil. Souillere who is the executive chef tells me that the hot ticket this summer is the Firebird: Ground fresh chicken with Serrano chilies, topped with a four pepper medley, Muenster cheese and red-hot crispy onions.

If you prefer something less modernist, they also list a signature Motor Burger. French fries are thin, home-cut and ordered al a carte. Sides include: sweet potato fries, poutine, onion rings and coleslaw. Dessert was a rich dark chocolate cake infused with heat and reminiscent of a molten soufflé.

The bar prepares a perfect martini with proper olives and offers a selection of themed milkshakes (spiked and non-alcoholic) and signature cocktails. A modest wine list features only one local red and one local white wine and a number of international selections.

Motor Burger is innovative has lots of finesse and both substance and style.

888 Erie St E
Windsor, ON ,
519 252 8004

Stratford A Culinary Tourism Hotspot

2011-07-09T06:57:00.000-07:00

Stratford A Culinary Tourism Hotspot

I have been a “Stradfordophile” for over twenty-five years. Among my favourite times of the year is the Stratford Festival season, which attracts more than a half a million tourists to this vibrant culinary and theatre destination. This puts the city of 32,000 in an enviable and unique position, drawing loyal theatregoers and culinary enthusiasts back to the region year-round for its unique arts culture, character and cuisine

Stratford has an unusually high number of culinary assets. Among them is the presence of the esteemed Stratford Chefs School, where students work with visiting culinary luminaries and chefs from across Canada and around the world. Culinary pros and alumni have stayed on in Stratford, adding innovation and prestige to the local culinary scene. Stratford’s prominence is largely due to the focus and commitment from the culinary and agricultural community at large, aided by the Stratford Tourism Alliance in particular.

Stratford has a culinary visionary in Eugene Zakreski, Executive Director of the Stratford Tourism Alliance. Zakreski and his colleagues, Cathy Rehberg, Danielle Broadhagen, Emily Chandler and Cathy Bieman of Perth County Visitors Association were early adopters of culinary tourism. They have successfully helped to strengthen Stratford and Perth County’s position as one of Ontario’s most unique and distinctive culinary regions by collaborating with area farmers, artisans and chefs to reinforce the awareness of sustainable agriculture and building a strong and authentic local food culture.

In fact, the Stratford Tourism Alliance is presented as “best practice” by the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance. Danielle Broadhagen is the collaborative driving force behind the grassroots efforts of the Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Tourism Campaign and food festival. These folks are dynamos as evidenced by being presented with the 2010 Best Culinary Experience Award by the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance at the Ontario Tourism Summit.
Stratford Tourism recently announced that 22 of their acclaimed restaurants are passionate about their chefs supporting locally raised produce and meats. Look for the green “Proud supporter of our local farmers” logo, which identifies a place where the chef is dedicated to the challenge of offering locally raised foods.

The 4th Annual Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival continues to grow, gaining momentum and recognition. This year’s festival will be Saturday and Sunday, September 24 and 25. Planning is well underway, including expanding the festivities into the downtown core, pairing not-for-profit BBQ vendors with Stratford Chefs School students, and featuring plenty of sensational regional sampling and tastings.

A visit to Stratford for a few days has always been a perfect opportunity for an authentic culinary getaway. You can experience Stratford’s and Perth County’s culinary regionalism at restaurants, cafés, food specialty shops, Farmers’ Markets, epicurean treks and culinary walking tours.A stopover in the area is not complete without a stay in one of the many hospitable inns or bed and breakfasts. On a recent culinary sojourn, my travelling companion and I stayed at the charming Foster’s Inn in downtown Stratford. The comfortable inn is housed in a hundred-year-old Victorian-style building, showcasing original hardwood floors, eighteen-foot ceilings and a smart outdoor terrace. We opted for a delicious lunch in the inn’s dining room when my parents showed up in town unexpectedly.

Stratford is full of interesting and one-of-a-kind specialty shops situated on its heritage streetscapes or off the beaten path on side streets. One of our favourite shops is Rick Weingarden and Allan’s Watt’s garden and food shop, Anything Grows. Anything Grows’ historic cellar on St. Patrick Street (formerly the site of Stratford’s original brewery), with its unique curved ceilings, was residence to last winter’s Slow Food Sunday Market. The producer- and artisan-based Slow Food Sunday Market has recently returned to the historic Market Square behind Stratford’s City Hall.

My quest to find a high-quality canvas piping bag was finally realized. Jeremy and Carrie Wreford’s Bradshaws, a 115-year old, culinary accessory retailer, carries three sizes in canvas and one size in silicone. Their practical philosophy, “Buy it once and buy it well,” has made me a regular customer.Stratford also boasts a charming array of independent and hospitable cafés and coffee bars with baristas that pull a proper espresso. The Revel Café, Sputnik Espresso Bar and Balzac’s Coffee Roastery are among my picks for an exceptional cup of coffee. The raspberry/oatmeal scone at the Revel Café, accompanied by a perfect latte, is also worth the 45-minute drive from London. And if you’re in the mood for the perfect summer refresher, try the delicious hand-squeezed lemonade at the Sputnik.

The Stratford Chocolate Trail is the one exception to Savour Stratford’s mandate of championing local foods and culinary regionalism. Stratford is home to three chocolatiers and several restaurants and shops that offer a variety of cacao-based products. Be sure to visit Chocolate Barr’s Candies, Rheo Thompson, and the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory. If your tastes run to retro-inspired confectionery, be sure to visit the funky Small-Mart, a unique and contemporary adaption of the traditional general store.

A great place to grab a picnic lunch is Janet Ashworth’s At The County Food Company on Erie Street. Ashworth’s philosophy is a simple concept: Seasonal local ingredients, gifted chefs, innovative selections and affordable dining. Pick and choose from a range of irresistible entrées and salads. Another long-time favourite of mine is Susie Palach’s York Street Kitchen, in the Mill Block facing the Lake Victoria. The Kitchen and its take-out window has been a mecca for visitors and Stratford residents for as long as I can remember. It is also a great place to pick up a picnic, and Palach sources local ingredients whenever possible. In addition to York Street’s celebrated sandwiches, they prepare interesting lunch and dinner signature specials. Also, the new Bakery at Pazzo sells boxed picnic lunches. ((see Cecilia Buy’s review in this issue).

After a day of café-hopping and shopping that included the not-to-be-missed The Green Room (if you are looking for something outré to wear for dinner), we visited Callan’s Books and the Stratford Antique Warehouse to look for vintage cookbooks. This was followed by cocktails at Bentley’s, and then a seminal dining experience at Bijoux was followed by a visit to Down the Street for a glass of bubby – in this case Pelee Island Prosecco. We retired to the bar at Foster’s Inn where we had a nightcap with bartender/farmer/culinary activist, Brendon Lyoness. Lyoness operates Caveman Crops and farms an acre of land where he grows all-natural potatoes, beans, parsnips, cucumbers, pumpkins and tomatoes. Caveman Crops supplies “upscale chalkboard menu” establishments where the specials change daily, such as Bijou, The Parlour and Down the Street.

After spending months researching authentic culinary experiences in Ontario’s Southwest for a new culinary tourism guide, I decided to compile a small list of notable restaurants in Stratford for this column. This required me to eat in many different establishments in a short span of time, just as the Festival season was getting underway. I polled many restaurant insiders and employees for their opinions in my quest. I narrowed the list to restaurants of proven and consistent quality that have helped set the city’s high dining standards. Not surprisingly, I found that Stratford’s most talked-about restaurants are all serving up genuine hospitality and innovative cuisine that takes culinary regionalism and seasonal cooking to new heights.
My list is by no means definitive. It is a brief guide for those of you who are not familiar with the many options for authentic culinary experiences in Stratford. Rundles, Rene’s Bistro, The Parlour, The Annex, The Belfry at The Church and Molly Bloom’s Irish Pub all deserve a mention. Close by and worth the drive are: Nick & Nat’s Uptown 21 in Waterloo, Woolfy’s just outside St. Marys, and sixthirtynine in Woodstock (see Cecilia Buy’s review in this issue).

Bijou
Bijou’s culinary philosophy embraces the ideology of local and seasonal; however, chef/owners Aaron and Bronwyn Linley put their own idiosyncratic stamp on the ever-changing chalkboard menu. Asian, French and Italian culinary influences and techniques inform the menu. The Linleys cultivate personal relationships with local farmers and suppliers and are proponents of showcasing Perth County products and ingredients and a regional culinary sensibility. They also source high-quality and interesting specialty ingredients from elsewhere. Lana Mau, our hospitable and attentive server, tells us that recent renovations have added more room to the kitchen. A puree of Green Garlic Soup with ‘Bella’ Sheep Milk Cheese and Buttery Croutons was a knockout. We also enjoyed delicious Lake Huron Whitefish with a ragout of sweet onions, asparagus and parsley pistou; and Roast Leg of Venison with bacon, butter, mushrooms, pearl onions and cornichon salsa.105 Erie Street; 519.273.5000; www.bijourestaurant.com

Pazzo
Pazzo’s street-level ristorante offers Italian-inspired cuisine in a contemporary setting. This is Chef Sean Collins’ second season as head chef at Pazzo. Collins is assisted by sous-chef and co-chair of Slow Food Stratford, Yva Santini. The menu offerings feature feature foods using local ingredients and products wherever possible. A prix fixe “Field to Chef” Menu showcases a number of regional producers working in conjunction with Pazzo’s chefs to offer an authentic seasonal culinary experience. An early June lunch, prepared by Santini, showed they are still at the top of the game.70 Ontario Street; 519.273.6666; www.pazzo.ca

The Old Prune
After 33 years, cofounders Eleanor Kane and Marion Isherwood have sold the 66-seat Old Prune, which began life as a café with about 20 seats. Bill and Shelley Windsor and Randy Simpson, owners of The Parlour Historic Inn & Suites, a 28-room hotel that dates back to the 1800s, purchased the restaurant earlier this year.
Three chic rooms in a heritage home overlooking a courtyard provide a sublime setting for one of the consistently best dining experiences in the city. This is contemporary French-inspired cuisine under the motivated genius and guidance of Chef Bryan Steele who has been the chef for 22 years. Steele’s menu items celebrate local and regional producers and growers. The influences of disparate world cuisines alongside traditional French recipes create interesting juxtapositions designed to enrich and enliven your dining experience. An intelligent wine program directed by Sommelier/ Manager Peter Lavoie showcases boutique vintages from local and international growers.May 13 to October 15; 151 Albert Street; 519.271.5052; www.oldprune.on.ca

Simple Fish and Chips
Shawn and Candice Hartwell are hands-on proprietors who sidestepped convention when they opened Simple Fish and Chips a year and a half ago, across from Foster’s Inn and steps away from the Avon Theatre. The staff are friendly, hospitable and knowledgeable. The restaurant espouses the philosophies of the Ocean Wise sustainable seafood program. Unique and iconic batter flavours are one of the hallmarks of this innovative and ethical kitchen: Chile-glazed, Cajun, Green Curry, Jerk, Tikka Masala, Gluten-free and Wheat, to name a few batter choices. The Hartwells have also set up a few comfortable sidewalk tables. Their motto: Come visit us just for the halibut! Simple, sustainable and delicious – what more can you ask for? Sweet-potato fries are a signature offering.118 Downie Street; 519.275.0400

Keystone Alley
CaféProprietor/chef Sheldon Russell hails from Sheffield, England, and spent some time as co-owner and Chef de Cuisine of The Church Restaurant. Russell and his wife, Patty Hawkins-Russell, have been the hands-on owners of The Keystone Alley Café since 1998. The restaurant is warm and convivial, with an open kitchen and a seasonal, eponymous alfresco alley for dining. The à la carte menus display familiar classics, down-home comfort foods, and signature items prepared with seasonal ingredients and high quality products. At a recent lunch, I sampled a delicious Sorrel Soup, followed by a fragrant and Savoury Pork Tourtière. Try the signature Trio of Crème Brulée and house-made Lemon Tart with a shortbread crust.34 Brunswick Street; 519.271.5645; www.keystonealley.com

Down the Street
Susan Dunfield’s Down the Street is Stratford’s late-night hot spot with high-energy bistro dining. Their open kitchen features Chef Lee Avigdor’s seasonal menus, which showcase local and organic ingredients. Caitlin Noel-Drews and Tommy Kelly tell us that Down the Street has been bedazzled for another season, with new and beautifully appointed washrooms, chandeliers with pressed steel art nouveau covers from a past Stratford production, and damask-like red draperies. The bar sports oversize silver vases with palm leaves (in homage to Jesus Christ Superstar) and giant silver candleholders, and there’s a charming street-side patio. The restaurant features a VQA award-wining wine list and a good selection of local craft and imported beers. A premiere table overlooks the Avon River.Closed December–February. 30 Ontario Street; 519.273.5886; www.downthestreet.ca

When I Go Out To Eat
When I go out to eat, I can’t help but be impressed by restaurants that support local farmers and food artisans by featuring regional ingredients and products. I also like to take note of the décor, whether the cutlery is polished, the state of the restrooms, and the wine and culinary knowledge of the service staff. Most restaurants give a lot of thought and attention to these details. If they are pleasing, you know that you are in good hands.

For those of you who want to know a bit more about the inside scoop, be sure to follow Stratford’s formidable culinary bloggers: http://tochew.blogspot.com; and http://local-come-lately.blogspot.com.

Haldimand County … A Grand Experience!

2011-06-24T13:53:00.000-07:00

Haldimand County … A Grand Experience!

Haldimand County, where the waters of the Southern Grand River meet Lake Erie, offers travellers the experience of both “Grand River Country” and “Ontario’s South Coast.” Farm families have deep roots in the community and many have long-term investments in the ecological and cultural heritage. Haldimand has a fascinating geology: a mix of heavily textured clay, exposed limestone pavement and deep subterranean catacombs in the limestone bedrock. A wide variety of fruits and vegetables prosper in this terroir. Livestock includes beef cattle, bison, dairy cows, poultry, pork, ostrich and emu.

Haldimand County was formed from part of the land grant to the Six Nations in 1783. The county, purchased by treaty, opened for general settlement in 1832. In 1835, Ranald McKinnon came to a wilderness with only a tavern and two log houses. He soon began building mills, whose products could be transported down the Grand River by barge, and the area developed quickly under McKinnon’s leadership. He engineered the Plank Road, later to become Highway 6, linking Hamilton and Port Dover. Caledonia was quickly incorporated as a village and both Seneca and Oneida villages became part of the town. Today, a nine-span bridge, the only one of its type in Canada, links the whole community. Its friendly, small town atmosphere remains one of Haldimand County’s strongest assets. The friendly, small town atmosphere you’ll find in Haldimand County remains one of its strongest assets.

Harvests of Haldimand

Explore the local culinary point-of-view and the simple pleasures that tell the story of the Harvests of Haldimand. Local farmers produce a bounty of goodness, fresh from some of the most prized agricultural land in Ontario’s Southwest. This diversity of food inspires local chefs to create unique and delectable Haldimand-inspired dishes. A celebration of the Harvests of Haldimand occurs throughout the year, from fruit, vegetables, meat and poultry to cheese, eggs, jams, and maple syrup.

Cruise the county’s back roads and enjoy the pastoral countryside, but take time to discover the county’s regional specialties. Delight your senses with some of Haldimand’s signature seasonal cuisine, ranging from Blackened Catfish and Deep Fried Perch to Sweet Potato Soup and Lamb Ragout. Local freshness is the hallmark of Haldimand County’s farmers’ markets, fall fairs and other agricultural events.
Historic sites include the scenic Caledonia Mill, built in the 1850s to process wheat into flour. Just west of the bridge, the Mill remains a monument to the community’s agricultural and culinary heritage. Between Caledonia and Dunnville lays the pretty town of Cayuga, located on the banks of the Grand River. While visiting Cayuga, be sure to enjoy a picnic in the pavilion next to the river or take a relaxing stroll through the many parks along the river’s edge.

Dunnville, another picturesque community, is located further along the Grand River on Highway 3, still less than an hour from the USA border. Dunnville hosts many events and natural attractions. The annual Mudcat Festival celebrates one of the Grand River’s most well-known inhabitants. Another popular event is the Dunnville Agricultural Fair, held in late August,Hagersville is a community-oriented village located on Highway 6. Its history is well preserved in many of its well-maintained heritage buildings. The renowned Hagersville Farmers’ Market, founded in 1892, runs regularly on Wednesday mornings April to October. Hagersville is also home to Hewitt's Dairy, one of the last remaining independent dairies in Ontario. “Meet your friends at Hewitt’s Dairy Bar” — their motto since the opening of the local landmark in the spring of 1962 — for light lunches, ice cream treats and dairy products.
Strategically located at the crossroads of Highways 3 and 6, Jarvis is a quiet community featuring some intriguing brick architecture. Many of the community’s historic homes were built after a devastating fire in 1873. The community overflows with visitors when Jarvis hosts its outstanding Cornfest celebration on the third weekend in August, with plenty to see and do for all ages. The Walpole Antique Farm Machinery Association is also open to the public to demonstrate the area’s agricultural heritage

A visit to the quaint little town of Selkirk is an opportunity to stay at a nearby campground or relax in a charming Bed and Breakfast. Enjoy swimming or walking on Lake Erie’s sunny shores, but don’t miss the murals on the town’s main corners. For nature lovers, Selkirk Provincial Park has excellent camping and picnicking facilities. The park borders Lake Erie, well known for its sport fishing.

Taste the Goodness
Hewitt’s Dairy
In 1887, James Hewitt, founder of Hewitt’s Dairy, began delivering milk to the residents of Hagersville in his horse-drawn Democrat. Today, the dairy is proud to remain one of the oldest family-owned and operated dairies in Ontario. Milk was processed on the farm until 1950; a plant was built in Hagersville and remains to this day, continually updated to meet all demands. A full range of milk products are processed including fluid and chocolate milk, cream, cultured products, goat milk and their cultured products, organic cow and goat milk products, ice cream, frozen yogurt, sherbet and sugar-free low-fat ice cream. All milk purchased for processing comes from local farms. A Natural Food Store and a Dairy Bar are also part of the operation.
128 King Street East, Hagersville

Bains Road Cider Company
Located on Bains Road in South Cayuga, Geoff and Melissa McDonald’s small farm features an orchard of apples, peaches, pears and mulberry trees, as well as raspberry and blackberry bushes. Bains products are available for purchase at local restaurants such as Flyer’s Cafe.

Culinary Education
Shared Harvest Community Farm and Education Centre
Shared Harvest Community Farm grows over 40 different types of organic vegetables and over 100 different varieties. A wide variety of fresh herbs are also grown. Vegetables are also frozen and canned ensuring a supply for the winter months.
This project is Dunnvilles’s first organic Community Shared Agriculture (CSA) box programme and provides shareholders with weekly boxes of fresh, locally harvested organic produce. Families buy a share in the farm and receive a weekly box of vegetables that is enough to feed two adults from the end of June into February; thirty-two weeks of fresh organic vegetables. The Community Farm and Education Centre operate Saturdays from 9a.m. – noon from May until February. 834 North Shore Drive, Dunnville

Farm Attractions
James and Kirsten Richardson own and operate Richardson’s Corn Maze & Farm Market. The 10-acre maze, along with many other activities and attractions, brings locals and visitors alike to the farm. Early in the year, enjoy their annual sugar-bush tours and maple syrup demonstrations. Later in the year, their Farm Market is stocked with a wide array of locally grown produce, berries, preserves, and that sweet maple syrup. Most of the produce is grown without the use of insecticides or fungicides. Open Monday to Saturday.131 River Road, Dunnville

Fisherville Greenhouses
Ron and Cindy Mueller and family own and operate this hydroponic and field farm; specializing in beefsteak and grape tomatoes, strawberries and pumpkins. Other types of produce are on offer seasonally. A roadside stand is open from May to October; dawn to dusk.
294 Concession 5, Fisherville

Twisted Lemon Located in the picturesque village of Cayuga, the Twisted Lemon Restaurant is owned and operated by the husband and wife team of Chef Dan Megna and Laurie Lilliman. The Twisted Lemon is a recognized culinary experience; featured on the Food Network’s “The Opener”, as a recommended restaurant in “Where to Eat in Canada”, among other Reader’s Choice and Business Awards. Megna worked for 4 years under the tutelage of Mark McEwan at North 44 in Toronto. The open-concept kitchen offers seasonal and locally-inspired cuisine with monthly features. Cindy Presant’s breads, desserts and unique sorbets are made from scratch in house. Megna and Lillman source ingredients almost exclusively from Haldimand County. Thursday night features a prix fixe menu.
Signature dishes include: Twisted Lemon Thyme Chicken and local Sweet Potato Gnocchi
3 Norton Street West, Cayuga

Flyer’s Bakery & Café
Flyer’s Bakery & Café is open seven days a week in the heart of Dunnville. Chef Cheryl Bishop sources local meats and produce. The Shared Harvest Community Farm Market is held here every Wednesday, (8 to 3), featuring organic produce and staples. The marketplace is home to local artwork, paintings, crafts, antiques, organic fruit, vegetables and more. Breads, pies, cakes, pastries and soups are made on site. Cider and The Sour Cherry wine beverage is sourced locally from Bains Road Cider Company. Breakfast is served all day. 144 Queen Street, Dunnville

Argyle Street Grill
The Argyle Street Grill was nominated for a 2010 Haldimand County Tourism Award. Co-owner/chef Wade Taylor oversees the kitchen and sources many locally gathered ingredients such as Jensen’s cheeses, V.G Meats, Port Dover perch, Hagersville Bakery products, Hewitt’s Dairy as well as Canadian lobster, mussels and haddock. Meat comes from the European Edge Butcher in Caledonia. 345 Argyle Street South, Caledonia

River’s Edge Dining Room
River’s Edge Dining Room is found at the Dunnville Golf and Country Club, on the banks of the Grand River just outside Dunnville. River’s Edge offers a scenic view of the Grand River and golf course in their sunroom, a scenic view over the 18th hole in the dining room and a casual setting in the Club Room. The menu highlights local produce in dishes that range from classic comfort food to internationally inspired specialties. Open from April 1 through October 31, seven days a week. 159 Regional Rd. 17, Dunnville

Grand Island BBQ
In 1953, Jim Williams, proprietor of his family’s meat market in Dunnville, was impressed by the large number of tourists passing by his farm and decided to open a small hamburger stand. From this simple start, Grand Island BBQ has become a favourite pilgrimage for both Canadian and American tourists. The featured item is their fresh-ground hamburgers, which contain no additives. On their extensive menu, 40% or more of the products are purchased and sourced locally. 7336 Rainham Road, Dunnville

Gingerbread House Country Inn and Restaurant
The Inn is the former Post Office/Town Hall of the old village of Indiana, dating back to the1830s. Today, the 52-seat dining room (and 48-seat patio, weather permitting) provides a unique, historic setting on the Grand River. Enjoy casual gourmet dining prepared by Peter and Lynne Van Wyck with time-honoured methods and historical recipes. Seasonal menus. 311 Haldimand Highway 54, Cayuga

Ye Olde Fisherville Restaurant
Established in 1853 by Jacob Rorhbach of Alsace, France, this casual country restaurant is located in the historic Fisherville Hotel. Today, it is best known for its Lake Erie Yellow Perch and Pickerel features. 2 Erie Avenue South, Fisherville.

Historical Culinary Landmark
The Caledonia Mill
The Caledonia Mill is the last mill of its type remaining in the Grand River watershed. This huge frame building operated as a flour and grist mill right up until the 1960s, withstanding the ravages of the Grand River and time itself for more than 150 years. The mill is not open to the public currently, but strategic vantage points along the Grand River allow an appreciation of its picturesque setting.

Haldimand Farmers’ Markets
Open from May to December, the Dunnville Farmers’ Market is open every Tuesday and Saturday from 7am to noon. Locally grown fruit and vegetables, meats, baking and more are on offer. 218 Main Street, Market Street (Beside Dunnville Arena), Dunnville,

The Caledonia Farmers’ Market features home baking, flowers, fresh meats and locally grown vegetables and fruits every Thursday, 2 to 7, from May to October. 365 Argyle Street South, (Canadian Tire parking lot), Caledonia

Hagersville Farmers’ Market has been offering fresh fruits, vegetables, flowers, bedding plants since 1892. It’s open every Wednesday morning from May to November. 1 Main Street South, Market Square, Hagersville

Located in a 150-year-old mill, the Jarvis Country Market has over 15,000 square feet of vendors selling fresh produce, deli meats, baked goods, jewellery, leather goods, maple syrup and more. The market operates year round every Friday and Saturday. 2095 Main Street North, Jarvis

Country Fairs & Festivals

Caledonia Fair
The Caledonia Agricultural Society is the sponsor of the Caledonia Fair held annually at the Fairgrounds on Highway 54. Held the 4th weekend after Labour Day the Fair was founded in 1873, and has been an important party of the community ever since. www.caledoniafair.ca

Jarvis Cornfest
The annual country family festival held in mid- August is a celebration of corn. Fresh corn on the cob, local popcorn and kettlecorn are available all day. www.cornfest.ca

Mudcat Festival
Dunnville’s Mudcat Festival celebrates one of the Grand River’s most well- known inhabitants (the mudcat) and attracts thousands of visitors each year in early June. Featuring a parade, children’s fish derby, live music, fireworks and midway rides. Voted by Festival Ontario as one of the top 100 festivals to attend. www.dunnvillechamberofcommerce.ca

Dunnville Agricultural Fair
Enjoy a weekend of home-craft competitions, sheep/goat shows, heavy-light mini horse shows, mini rod pullers, food and entertainment. This year, the 17thThe aAnnual Dunnville Agricultural Fair will beis held the 3rd weekend in August 20-21..
Lions Park & Area, Highway 3 West, Dunnville

Stratford A Culinary Tourism Hotspot

2011-06-24T13:19:00.000-07:00

Savour the Local Flavour of Stratford

I have been a “Stradfordophile” for over twenty-five years. Among my favourite times of the year is the Stratford Festival season, which attracts more than a half a million tourists to this vibrant culinary and theatre destination. This puts the city of 32,000 in an enviable and unique position, drawing loyal theatregoers and culinary enthusiasts back to the region year-round for its unique arts culture, character and cuisine

Stratford has an unusually high number of culinary assets. Among them is the presence of the esteemed Stratford Chefs School, where students work with visiting culinary luminaries and chefs from across Canada and around the world. Culinary pros and alumni have stayed on in Stratford, adding innovation and prestige to the local culinary scene. Stratford’s prominence is largely due to the focus and commitment from the culinary and agricultural community at large, aided by the Stratford Tourism Alliance in particular.

Stratford has a culinary visionary in Eugene Zakreski, Executive Director of the Stratford Tourism Alliance. Zakreski and his colleagues, Cathy Rehberg, Danielle Broadhagen, Emily Chandler and Cathy Bieman of Perth County Visitors Association were early adopters of culinary tourism. They have successfully helped to strengthen Stratford and Perth County’s position as one of Ontario’s most unique and distinctive culinary regions by collaborating with area farmers, artisans and chefs to reinforce the awareness of sustainable agriculture and building a strong and authentic local food culture.

In fact, the Stratford Tourism Alliance is presented as “best practice” by the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance. Danielle Broadhagen is the collaborative driving force behind the grassroots efforts of the Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Tourism Campaign and food festival. These folks are dynamos as evidenced by being presented with the 2010 Best Culinary Experience Award by the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance at the Ontario Tourism Summit.

Stratford Tourism recently announced that 22 of their acclaimed restaurants are passionate about their chefs supporting locally raised produce and meats. Look for the green “Proud supporter of our local farmers” logo, which identifies a place where the chef is dedicated to the challenge of offering locally raised foods.

The 4th Annual Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival continues to grow, gaining momentum and recognition. This year’s festival will be Saturday and Sunday, September 24 and 25. Planning is well underway, including expanding the festivities into the downtown core, pairing not-for-profit BBQ vendors with Stratford Chefs School students, and featuring plenty of sensational regional sampling and tastings. A visit to Stratford for a few days has always been a perfect opportunity for an authentic culinary getaway. You can experience Stratford’s and Perth County’s culinary regionalism at restaurants, cafés, food specialty shops, Farmers’ Markets, epicurean treks and culinary walking tours.

A stopover in the area is not complete without a stay in one of the many hospitable inns or bed and breakfasts. On a recent culinary sojourn, my travelling companion and I stayed at the charming Foster’s Inn in downtown Stratford. The comfortable inn is housed in a hundred-year-old Victorian-style building, showcasing original hardwood floors, eighteen-foot ceilings and a smart outdoor terrace. We opted for a delicious lunch in the inn’s dining room when my parents showed up in town unexpectedly.

Stratford is full of interesting and one-of-a-kind specialty shops situated on its heritage streetscapes or off the beaten path on side streets. One of our favourite shops is Rick Weingarden and Allan’s Watt’s garden and food shop, Anything Grows. Anything Grows’ historic cellar on St. Patrick Street (formerly the site of Stratford’s original brewery), with its unique curved ceilings, was residence to last winter’s Slow Food Sunday Market. The producer- and artisan-based Slow Food Sunday Market has recently returned to the historic Market Square behind Stratford’s City Hall.

My quest to find a high-quality canvas piping bag was finally realized. Jeremy and Carrie Wreford’s Bradshaws, a 115-year old, culinary accessory retailer, carries three sizes in canvas and one size in silicone. Their practical philosophy, “Buy it once and buy it well,” has made me a regular customer.

Stratford also boasts a charming array of independent and hospitable cafés and coffee bars with baristas that pull a proper espresso. The Revel Café, Sputnik Espresso Bar and Balzac’s Coffee Roastery are among my picks for an exceptional cup of coffee. The raspberry/oatmeal scone at the Revel Café, accompanied by a perfect latte, is also worth the 45-minute drive from London. And if you’re in the mood for the perfect summer refresher, try the delicious hand-squeezed lemonade at the Sputnik.

The Stratford Chocolate Trail is the one exception to Savour Stratford’s mandate of championing local foods and culinary regionalism. Stratford is home to three chocolatiers and several restaurants and shops that offer a variety of cacao-based products. Be sure to visit Chocolate Barr’s Candies, Rheo Thompson, and the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory. If your tastes run to retro-inspired confectionery, be sure to visit the funky Small-Mart, a unique and contemporary adaption of the traditional general store.

A great place to grab a picnic lunch is Janet Ashworth’s At The County Food Company on Erie Street. Ashworth’s philosophy is a simple concept: Seasonal local ingredients, gifted chefs, innovative selections and affordable dining. Pick and choose from a range of irresistible entrées and salads. Another long-time favourite of mine is Susie Palach’s York Street Kitchen, in the Mill Block facing the Lake Victoria. The Kitchen and its take-out window has been a mecca for visitors and Stratford residents for as long as I can remember. It is also a great place to pick up a picnic, and Palach sources local ingredients whenever possible. In addition to York Street’s celebrated sandwiches, they prepare interesting lunch and dinner signature specials. Also, the new Bakery at Pazzo sells boxed picnic lunches. ((see Cecilia Buy’s review in this issue).

After a day of café-hopping and shopping that included the not-to-be-missed The Green Room (if you are looking for something outré to wear for dinner), we visited Callan’s Books and the Stratford Antique Warehouse to look for vintage cookbooks. This was followed by cocktails at Bentley’s, and then a seminal dining experience at Bijoux was followed by a visit to Down the Street for a glass of bubby – in this case Pelee Island Prosecco. We retired to the bar at Foster’s Inn where we had a nightcap with bartender/farmer/culinary activist, Brendon Lyoness. Lyoness operates Caveman Crops and farms an acre of land where he grows all-natural potatoes, beans, parsnips, cucumbers, pumpkins and tomatoes. Caveman Crops supplies “upscale chalkboard menu” establishments where the specials change daily, such as Bijou, The Parlour and Down the Street.

After spending months researching authentic culinary experiences in Ontario’s Southwest for a new culinary tourism guide, I decided to compile a small list of notable restaurants in Stratford for this column. This required me to eat in many different establishments in a short span of time, just as the Festival season was getting underway. I polled many restaurant insiders and employees for their opinions in my quest. I narrowed the list to restaurants of proven and consistent quality that have helped set the city’s high dining standards. Not surprisingly, I found that Stratford’s most talked-about restaurants are all serving up genuine hospitality and innovative cuisine that takes culinary regionalism and seasonal cooking to new heights.
My list is by no means definitive. It is a brief guide for those of you who are not familiar with the many options for authentic culinary experiences in Stratford. Rundles, Rene’s Bistro, The Parlour, The Annex, The Belfry at The Church and Molly Bloom’s Irish Pub all deserve a mention. Close by and worth the drive are: Nick & Nat’s Uptown 21 in Waterloo, Woolfy’s just outside St. Marys, and sixthirtynine in Woodstock (see Cecilia Buy’s review in this issue).

Bijou
Bijou’s culinary philosophy embraces the ideology of local and seasonal; however, chef/owners Aaron and Bronwyn Linley put their own idiosyncratic stamp on the ever-changing chalkboard menu. Asian, French and Italian culinary influences and techniques inform the menu. The Linleys cultivate personal relationships with local farmers and suppliers and are proponents of showcasing Perth County products and ingredients and a regional culinary sensibility. They also source high-quality and interesting specialty ingredients from elsewhere. Lana Mau, our hospitable and attentive server, tells us that recent renovations have added more room to the kitchen. A puree of Green Garlic Soup with ‘Bella’ Sheep Milk Cheese and Buttery Croutons was a knockout. We also enjoyed delicious Lake Huron Whitefish with a ragout of sweet onions, asparagus and parsley pistou; and Roast Leg of Venison with bacon, butter, mushrooms, pearl onions and cornichon salsa.
105 Erie Street; 519.273.5000; www.bijourestaurant.com

Pazzo
Pazzo’s street-level ristorante offers Italian-inspired cuisine in a contemporary setting. This is Chef Sean Collins’ second season as head chef at Pazzo. Collins is assisted by sous-chef and co-chair of Slow Food Stratford, Yva Santini. The menu offerings feature feature foods using local ingredients and products wherever possible. A prix fixe “Field to Chef” Menu showcases a number of regional producers working in conjunction with Pazzo’s chefs to offer an authentic seasonal culinary experience. An early June lunch, prepared by Santini, showed they are still at the top of the game.
70 Ontario Street; 519.273.6666; www.pazzo.ca

The Old Prune
After 33 years, cofounders Eleanor Kane and Marion Isherwood have sold the 66-seat Old Prune, which began life as a café with about 20 seats. Bill and Shelley Windsor and Randy Simpson, owners of The Parlour Historic Inn & Suites, a 28-room hotel that dates back to the 1800s, purchased the restaurant earlier this year.
Three chic rooms in a heritage home overlooking a courtyard provide a sublime setting for one of the consistently best dining experiences in the city. This is contemporary French-inspired cuisine under the motivated genius and guidance of Chef Bryan Steele who has been the chef for 22 years. Steele’s menu items celebrate local and regional producers and growers. The influences of disparate world cuisines alongside traditional French recipes create interesting juxtapositions designed to enrich and enliven your dining experience. An intelligent wine program directed by Sommelier/ Manager Peter Lavoie showcases boutique vintages from local and international growers.
May 13 to October 15; 151 Albert Street; 519.271.5052; www.oldprune.on.ca

Simple Fish and Chips
Shawn and Candice Hartwell are hands-on proprietors who sidestepped convention when they opened Simple Fish and Chips a year and a half ago, across from Foster’s Inn and steps away from the Avon Theatre. The staff are friendly, hospitable and knowledgeable. The restaurant espouses the philosophies of the Ocean Wise sustainable seafood program. Unique and iconic batter flavours are one of the hallmarks of this innovative and ethical kitchen: Chile-glazed, Cajun, Green Curry, Jerk, Tikka Masala, Gluten-free and Wheat, to name a few batter choices. The Hartwells have also set up a few comfortable sidewalk tables. Their motto: Come visit us just for the halibut! Simple, sustainable and delicious – what more can you ask for? Sweet-potato fries are a signature offering.
118 Downie Street; 519.275.0400

Keystone Alley Café
Proprietor/chef Sheldon Russell hails from Sheffield, England, and spent some time as co-owner and Chef de Cuisine of The Church Restaurant. Russell and his wife, Patty Hawkins-Russell, have been the hands-on owners of The Keystone Alley Café since 1998. The restaurant is warm and convivial, with an open kitchen and a seasonal, eponymous alfresco alley for dining. The à la carte menus display familiar classics, down-home comfort foods, and signature items prepared with seasonal ingredients and high quality products. At a recent lunch, I sampled a delicious Sorrel Soup, followed by a fragrant and Savoury Pork Tourtière. Try the signature Trio of Crème Brulée and house-made Lemon Tart with a shortbread crust.
34 Brunswick Street; 519.271.5645; www.keystonealley.com

Down the Street
Susan Dunfield’s Down the Street is Stratford’s late-night hot spot with high-energy bistro dining. Their open kitchen features Chef Lee Avigdor’s seasonal menus, which showcase local and organic ingredients. Caitlin Noel-Drews and Tommy Kelly tell us that Down the Street has been bedazzled for another season, with new and beautifully appointed washrooms, chandeliers with pressed steel art nouveau covers from a past Stratford production, and damask-like red draperies. The bar sports oversize silver vases with palm leaves (in homage to Jesus Christ Superstar) and giant silver candleholders, and there’s a charming street-side patio. The restaurant features a VQA award-wining wine list and a good selection of local craft and imported beers. A premiere table overlooks the Avon River.
Closed December–February. 30 Ontario Street; 519.273.5886; www.downthestreet.ca

When I Go Out To Eat
When I go out to eat, I can’t help but be impressed by restaurants that support local farmers and food artisans by featuring regional ingredients and products. I also like to take note of the décor, whether the cutlery is polished, the state of the restrooms, and the wine and culinary knowledge of the service staff. Most restaurants give a lot of thought and attention to these details. If they are pleasing, you know that you are in good hands.

For those of you who want to know a bit more about the inside scoop, be sure to follow Stratford’s formidable culinary bloggers: http://tochew.blogspot.com/; and http://local-come-lately.blogspot.com/.

Rhubarb Fool

2011-05-23T07:42:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Rhubarb Fool
4 cups 4 1/2 inch pieces of chopped rhubarb (no thicker than your thumb)
3/4 cup sugar
1 tsp good quality vanilla
500 ml whipping cream
Mature rhubarb requires a greater amount of sugar than suggested.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Let stand at room temperature until rhubarb exudes some juice, about 15 minutes. MIx rhubarb and sugar in baking dish. Cover with foil and bake until fruit is soft. Drain in a seive and pour the juice into a saucepan. Reserve pulp. Heat juice until reduced by about half. Let cool. Puree the fruit until smooth then let the juice and the puree cool to room temperature.
Whip the cream until thick. Carefully fold in rhubarb puree then some of the juice. Put the fool in a glass bowl or individual serving bowls or glasses.

David Chapman’s Five-Star Oeuvre

2011-05-11T19:56:00.000-07:00

David Chapman’s Five-Star Oeuvre

David Chapman, chef and owner of David’s Bistro on Richmond Street in London, started his career with an apprenticeship at the Grand Central Hotel in Belfast, the epitome of luxury in Northern Ireland at the time. The heyday of this hotel ended in 1972, when it was taken over by the British Army during the height of political conflict known as “the troubles.”

For the first half of his career, Chapman was employed in hotel kitchens. David’s talent was quickly recognized and he moved up through the ranks. Cooking stints just outside London, England, and in Bermuda and Toronto eventually led him here to London, Ontario. Chapman’s first job in London was at Whiddington’s, a tony French restaurant at the corner of Wellington and York Streets.

In 1980, the Villa Restaurant, owned by Tony and Irene Demas (now proprietors of The Stuffed Zucchini in Lucan), was purchased by Nick Bonfrere (of London Fishery fame), who renovated and modernized it. The venerated Villa became the upscale and top-notch Anthony’s Seafood Bistro, and Chapman became the chef. The restaurant was operated by local restaurant legends, Nick and Carolyn Bonfrere, and after several years they re-located to Florida, where they opened a string of successful restaurants. Anthony’s was then purchased by Anne and Archie Chisolm. Chapman stayed on as chef. The Chisolms would later conceptualize and open the Little Red Roaster on Wortley Road, which is credited in part with the revitalization of Wortley Village. When the Chisolms left Anthony’s (by then a local landmark), Chapman took over running the business.

After being chef, then chef/owner of Anthony’s Seafood Bistro for eighteen years, Chapman decided to reinvent himself and open a traditionally inspired French bistro a couple of doors down the street. The emphasis was not just on seafood, but authentic country French cuisine with locally sourced ingredients. Chapman is a long-time proponent of the philosophy that simplicity and purity are the hallmarks of good cooking.

It wasn’t long before David’s Bistro, with its tiny bar, vibrant red walls, and black-checked tablecloths, became a venerated downtown culinary anchor.

David, his wife Cindy Kinsella, and David’s daughter Natalie are your hosts and are on hand to dispense intelligent, charming and professional service. (Regulars will be happy to hear that David is now a grandfather. Natalie recently became a first-time mom and is temporarily on maternity leave.)

David’s protégé, Chef Elvis Drennan, a talent in his own right, continues to present superbly executed classic regional French-inspired dishes. Drennan apprenticed with Chapman at Anthony’s and has been working with him for over fifteen years.
A blackboard prix fixe menu changes daily. The restaurant is known for and acclaimed for its idiosyncratic multi-course “Trust Me” dinners – a precursor to Chef Tasting menus.

Over the years, the food and the service have remained impeccable. When the London Free Press was still reviewing restaurants, David’s was awarded with a rare five-star review. Today this review would still hold the test of time, with additional accolades for consistency and longevity.

David’s classic bistro fare includes a delicious terrine of sweetbreads and leek, with chunky fig compote and crunchy cornichons; a fragrant Provençal-inspired stew with tender seafood, served with a garlicky rouille on a crouto; and the pièce de résistance, a cassoulet of bacon, lamb and duck, with white beans adding a delicious amplifying effect on the stew’s earthy flavours and heavenly aroma.

At lunch, cornmeal-crusted Lake Erie yellow perch with lemon, capers and tomato melt in your mouth, as well as Lake Erie whitefish cake with tarragon remoulade and micro greens. David’s other signature dishes have included a knockout choucroute garni (an Alsacian-inspired mélange of sauerkraut, sausages and charcuterie) and a superb confit of duck with a delectably robust gorgonzola tart. The menus change seasonally. The desserts are house-made in the classic French tradition. There is also a good cup of coffee.

With an extensive consignment selection and accessibly priced wine list, as well as interesting chalkboard features, the oenophile is well satisfied.

For the last several years, Chapman has played host to a dinner fundraiser on March 17 to celebrate the anniversary of the opening of David’s Bistro. Last year, Chapman and his guests raised money for research into a cure for Amyotrophic Lateral Sclerosis (or ALS, more commonly known as Lou Gehrig’s disease). This year, $7,000 was raised for Alzheimer’s research.

David’s Bistro
432 Richmond Street, London
519-667-0535
www.davidsbistro.ca

hours of operation
lunch: Wednesday to Friday, 11:30 am to 2:30 pm
dinner: daily from 5 pm to 10 pm

Southwest Ontario Local Food Connection and Taste it! Gala - Round-up!

2011-04-14T20:14:00.000-07:00

Food Writer at Large

The Local Food Connection — Yes, We Have No Bananas

The Southwest Ontario Local Food Connection: Farmer / Food Buyer Networking Event and Taste it! Gala were an unprecedented success. The well-attended event, many months in the planning, exceeded expectations and identified many future opportunities for collaboration and cooperation in both the agricultural and culinary communities.

This present era is, both sadly and ironically, characterized by an alarming ignorance about agriculture, environment and the standardization of our food products. The Local Food Connection was intended in part, to counteract this problem and shine a light on farmers and producers and the availability of local products.

Representatives of restaurants, culinary retail, educational institutions and other institutions talked about what they like to buy and the challenges of sourcing local products. This networking event successfully showcased the region and helped further define the area as a whole, while building awareness about our agricultural and culinary identity.

The steering committee was a collaboration of a number of chefs, farmers, individuals and businesses interested in promoting and featuring local food, and educating the public about taste. The targeted audience included consumers, local producers and businesses engaged in the hospitality, culinary tourism, food retail, food service and food distributing industries. Word of mouth brought out many culinary luminaries from surrounding counties and from across the province.

The event was held in the Old East Village at the Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market in the historic Confederation Building. This was also an opportunity to launch a Local Flavour Initiative supported by the Old East Village B.I.A and the Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market. Ironically, until the Farmers’ Market opened in the Old East Village in 2006, the area had been identified as “a food desert” in a study conducted by Dr. Jason Gilliland. A food desert is generally defined as a socially distressed neighbourhood with low-average home incomes and poor access to healthy food.

The networking portion of the event commenced early morning (while vendors were setting up), bringing together a synergy of like-minded people dedicated and passionate about agriculture and food.

Lunch was comprised of Szabo Farms’ Maple Roasted Pork Loin and a tasting bar of salads, Ontario cheeses and artisanal breads that featured local and organic produce, condiments, pulses and culinary inspiration. Sourced locally, ingredients were provided by: On the Move Organics, Sleger’s Greenhouses, Pfennings, Steve Rounds Family Farm, Jantzi’s Cheese, and Flair Bakery. The lunch was catered by Savvy Chef owner and market vendor Scott Carrothers. And to wash it all down, Jeff Pastorious from On the Move Organics supplied fresh, organic, hand-juiced vegetable and wheatgrass shooters.

After lunch, the event became an open forum for networking and was followed by a roster of “local foods” guest speakers. On hand to lend support and talk about London’s emerging Culinary Tourism initiative was Rebecca Le Heup, Executive Director of the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance. Le Heup spoke about Ontario Culinary Tourism – Discover What’s on your Table. Other speakers included Innovations in Agri-Food: What is on the Horizon? by John Kelly, Vice President, Erie Innovation and Commercialization; Local Sustainable and Organic Food – An Emerging Opportunity by Chris Trussell, Partner Services Manager, Local Food Plus; Challenges Of Being Unconventional in a Conventional Society – How To Start Down a Path of Having Local on Your Menu by Chef Kristian Crossen, Braise Food & Wine; and Filling in the Middle, hosted by the 100 Mile Market.

More than sixty-five vendors and sponsors attended the networking event to find potential clients and form friendships and business relationships. Some of the farmers and producers participating included Klondyke Farms, Heeman Green Houses and Strawberry Farm, Burdan’s Red Cat Farm Bakery, Ryckman’s Farms, Stratford Tea Leaves, Everything Tea, Wayne’s Gourmet Popcorn, Kinedhan Maple Syrup, The Corn Crib, August Harvest, Sovereign Farms, Erbcroft Farms, and The Whole Pig. These participants volunteered a brief synopsis of their operations, then spoke at greater length about what they produced to the buyers who mingled. This resulted in a heightened awareness of the availability and variety of local products.

Sponsors, representatives and key stakeholders from the local culinary community included: Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Affairs, National Farmers Union, Western Fair Association, Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market, Savour Stratford, Savour Elgin, Middlesex County, Tourism London, Slow Food, Growing Chefs, Oxford County Workplace and Training, Local Food Plus, 100 Mile Market,
Elgin St.Thomas Health, eatdrink magazine and many more.

The daytime networking event was followed by a Gala Taste of Southwest Ontario Foods Reception from 5 to 9 p.m. on the second floor of the market in the Fire Roasted Coffee Roastery.

The criteria for farmer/chef participation were that the tasting(s) had to be authentic and comprised of entirely local ingredients that showcase both chef and farmer/producer. Many of our area’s local chefs who met the “local food criteria” participated. It was an opportunity to showcase their creations for chefs, farmers, culinary artisans, and producers who strive to meet and exceed expectations by sourcing and offering local Ontario foods and beverages.
Local event planner and caterer Robbin Azzopardi was integral in coordinating the success of the evening’s festivities. Out-of-town guest chefs included Montforte Dairy’s owner/lead cheesemaker, Ruth Klahsen, who was on hand with a delicious sampling of her renowned sheep and goat’s milk cheeses; Chef Rene Delfraniers from Stratford, who served a Monforte Cheese Panna Cotta; and Chef Kim Saunders from the Windjammer Inn in Port Stanley, who dazzled us with delicious Lake Erie Pickerel Cakes. Christi Masse and Will Gaynor from Crust Catering and Bakery joined Chef Saunders and supplied the delicious bread.

A number of London chefs participated in the event. Chef Kristain Crossen from Braise Food and Wine provided a delicious Blanbrook Farms Bison Carpaccio with Buffalo Milk Mozzarella and a spectacular Heirloom Potato and Mushroom Terrine., The potatoes supplied by farmers Marcus and Jesse Koeing’s Klondyke Farms in Dashwood.

Chef Tim D’Sousa from the Idelwyld Inn served Caudles Catch Smoked White Fish with White Fish Roe and Ingersoll Crème Fraîche, as well as Walnut Hills Farms Crispy Pork Belly with Toasted Barley, Beet Puree and Anton Kozlicks Mustard.

Chef Yam Gurung from Momo’s at the Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market served his signature Nepalese-inspired dumplings. The pork was sourced from Szabo Farms and the dumplings were handmade with Arva Mill Flour.

Chef Steve James from the London Training Centre wowed us with a deconstructed “BLT” – slow-braised Asian-style Pork Belly, Tomato Sambal Salsa, and Antony John’s Soiled Reputation Wild Arugula on local breadsmith Penelope Holt’s handcrafted organic bread.

Chef Andrew Wolwowitcz, from the soon-to-be-open Springs Restaurant, sourced all his ingredients at the Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market, including local pork and beef from Anthony at Farmgate Market; Korn Spitz (bread) from Flair Bakery; and Maitake, Black Trumpets and Sea Asparagus from Marc’s Mushrooms and Wild Harvest.

Chef Chris Chitty from the Delta Armouries served Wild Mushroom Ravioli and Fresh Rolls. All Chitty’s ingredients were sourced from the 100 Mile Market. For dessert, he prepared a velvety Pot au Crème with chocolate from The Chocolate Factory.

Luis Riva from True Taco prepared Chorizo and Barbocoa Tacos made with locally sourced beef and pork from Calvin Kuepfer of County Style Meats in Wellesley. The artisan corn tortillas were sourced in Alymer, Ontario.

Chef Korthof served St. Marys’ C’est Bon’s soft unripened goat cheese (from a herd of 200 purebred Toggenburg and La Mancha goats) on puff pastry with Norfolk County Matsu apples. Chef also proffered homemade profiteroles with Fair-trade Habitual roasted-chocolate lavender mousse.

Chef Sonita Bird from the Blackshire Pub served her signature Local Lamb Stew accompanied with Stratford Pilsner.

Chef Danijel Markovich from Kantina Cafe served local Chicken Salad on Arva Mills whole wheat bread, Maple Syrup Panna Cotta, and Sable Breton Crumbles with local sweet potatoes.

Every region of the world offers up delicious culinary treasures. Roquefort has its creamy sharp blue, Champagne its bubbly, Parma its Prosciutto and Parmigiano its cheese.
In Canada, we have Peterborough County’s Red Fife Wheat, Annapolis Valley’s Gravenstein Apple, Montreal’s eponymous melon, Quebec’s Canadienne Cow, First Nations’ Herring Spawn on Kelp, and the Prairies’ Great Plains Bison. Here in Southwest Ontario, we are rich with culinary tourism and agri-tourism resources, but could benefit from a stronger regional identity. And culinary treasures here in Southwest Ontario? We have Lake Erie yellow perch for starters. But, yes, we have no bananas. We have no bananas today. We’ve string beans and onions. Cabbages and scallions. All sorts of fruit and say, we have an old-fashioned to-mah-to…

Bryan Lavery is a well-known chef, food writer, culinary and agri-tourism tourism proponent.

Southwest Ontario Local Food Connection and Taste it! Gala

2011-03-07T22:41:00.001-08:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Southwest Ontario Local Food Connection and Taste it! Gala.

Southwest Ontario Local Food Connection - Farmer / Food Buyer Networking Event.

The daytime portion will not open to the general public but is a networking industry event. However, educational seminars will be open to the hospitality industry and the agricultural sector.

This business to business event will run from 11:15 am to 5:00 pm. Chef Scott Carrothers owner of Savvy Chef at the Western Fair Farmers' and Artisans' Market will prepare a buffet lunch featuring local food which will be served to vendors, sponsors and volunteers on the 2nd floor in the Roastery. Be sure to check Jeff Pastorious' Ont the Move Organics juice bar. Wheat grass shooters, anyone? Theo Korthoff from Flair Artisanal Bakery will be doing the baking.

At noon the event will become an open forum business networking event followed by a roster of ‘local foods’ guest speakers, and followed in the evening by Taste it! a Gala a star-studded sampling of Southwest Ontario Foods and Beverage Reception from 5:00 pm to 9:00 pm.

Speakers

This year speakers will include: Dr John Kelly, “Innovations in Agri-Food: What is on the Horizon?” He will provide a presentation on a food distribution analysis, along with some new innovations they are seeing in the food sector. John is the Vice-President of the Erie Innovation and Commercialization with the Ontario Fruit & Vegetable Growers' Association.

Other speakers include Chris Trussell from Local Food Plus and Paul Knechtel,
President the 100 Mile Market. Rebecca Le Heup, Executive Director of the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance will also be on hand to speak about culinary tourism.

The evening Taste It! Gala - is a ticketed Tasting event pairing and showcasing farmers’and chefs’ witha fine sampling of local cuisine, wines and beers. The criteria for vendors/farmers/chefs/food artisans in the Taste it! Gala tasting event is that the tasting samples must be comprised of entirely local ingredients that showcase both chef and farmer.

Local Chefs

Many of our local chefs who meet the ”local food criteria” will be participating.
Among the confirmed chefs are: Kristain Crossen from Braise Food and Wine.
Tim D' Sousa from the Idelwyld Inn, Sonita Bird from the Blackshire Pub and Danijel Markovich from Kantina Cafe. Out-of-town guest chefs include: Rene Delfrraniers from Rene's Bistro in Stratford and Kim Saunders from the Windjammer Inn in Port Stanley.

Uber-chef, Steve James from the London Training Centre will be preparing a "BLT" for the tasting event. Slow braised asian style pork belly, tomato sambal salsa and wild arugula on organic bread. Steve will source the pork from a local butcher the tomatoes will be Leamington hothouse, the arugula from Antony John's Soiled Reputation and bread made by local breadmaker Penelope Holt.

Yam Gurung from Momo's at the Market will be serving his delicious savoury Nepalese-inspired dumplings. The pork will be sourced from Szabo Farms and the dumplings are handmade with Arva Mill flour.

Exhibitors
There will also be informative exhibits showcasing artisanal products, DMO's and local culinary initiatives like: Savour Stratford and Savour Elgin representing culinary in Southwest Ontario.

Admission for the Taste It Gala! is $20.00. Additional sampling tickets will be sold for the tasting event.

Participants
Here are a few of our participants:

1) Erbcroft Farms www.erbcroft.com
Tim and Luann Erb's naturally raised animals forage in the pasture and receive natural supplements that help mitigate any need for medicated feeds. Customers enjoy Erbcroft's tender lamb and delectable duck, which are available at farmgate as are free-range turkey, chicken and eggs.

2) Full of Beans www.full-of-beans.ca
Full of Beans is a new business that sells locally grown bean products such as Maple Baked Beans, Hearty Bean Chili, and Deluxe Bean Soup. Full of Beans also sells gluten-free baking mixes such as Bean Brownies, Chocolate Chip Bean Cookies, and Spicy Carrot Cake. These products are great for people who need to keep a gluten-free diet for various health reasons. We are located in several stores in the area and also sell from our farm-based location outside of Bornholm.

3) Monforte Dairy www.monforte.com
There's more than cheese going on...With both a retail space and a view into the dairy “make room”, visitors will be able to see a variety of cheeses being made as well as see the aging room. Guests may sample Monforte artisanal cheeses and dairy products made from five milk streams (cow, goat, sheep, water buffalo, mare’s milk) as well as our complementary products

4) Soiled Reputation www.soiledreputation.com
Soiled Reputation is a Certified Organic produce farm, growing custom salad mixes, seedlings, and leafy greens year round, as well as 50 different gourmet and heirloom vegetables, grown seasonally. Soiled Reputation has supplied high quality organic vegetables to the public and the best restaurants in Ontario for over 15 years. Antony John was the host of the Food TV show, ‘The Manic Organic’. Visitors are welcome at the farm and will see a working example of a sustainable alternative market farm. Soiled reputation practices ecologically sound, certified organic growing techniques that enrich, rather than deplete the soil. Visitors will gain an appreciation of the many levels that growing organically benefits the environment, and enriches biodiversity.

5) Karen Hartwick, Tea Leaves www.stratfordtealeaves.com
KAREN HARTWICK is a certified tea sommelier whose passion is guiding people into the sophisticated, rich and varied world of fine tea. Sample from among a hundred of the world’s best, freshest and most exotic loose-leaf teas – white, green, red, black, smoked, roasted, rolled and many, many more.

Savouring Success: Culinary Tourism and You

2011-02-14T13:33:00.000-08:00

Savouring Success: Culinary Tourism and You
Terroir V Hospitality Symposium + Arlene Stein

“Savouring Success Culinary Tourism & You” was the theme of the 2011 Annual Regional Food Summit presented by Savour Stratford and the Stratford Tourism Alliance.

The summit focused on making tourism programming work for farmers, producers, culinary retailers and restaurateurs including best practice workshops such as: Cultivating your business through culinary tourism with farmer, Fred de Martines of Perth Pork Products and Waterloo restaurateur, Nick Benninger of Nick & Nat’s Uptown 21. How to make the most of culinary tourism for you and your business by career consultant, Tine Buechler owner of Growth Business Training and designer of Ask Me Training!

Making the most of Media Attention with Amy Rosen, freelance journalist for the National Post and the Globe and Mail, Andrew Coppolino, freelance writer and host of The Food Show 570 News and publisher of Waterloo Region Eats and our very own Chris McDonell, publisher eat drink magazine. Another interesting workshop was, What Next for Social Media? With Suresh Doss, publisher and editor of Spotlight Toronto.

Terroir
It is almost impossible to translate the term terroir from the French in a way that encapsulates all its subtle shades of meaning. The French concept of terroir was initially established over a century ago, as a means of protecting, preserving and advancing agricultural and artisanal practices and regional identities.

Many of us understand that the general idea of terroir is at the root of the French wine Appellation d'origine controlee (AOC) system. It is a system which has been the model for appellation and wine legislation around the world. At its core, terroir is the assumption that the soil from which the grapes are grown imparts unique characteristics that are specific to a particular region, or rather a 'taste of place' or origin. The term terroir has more recently become part of our culinary lexicon to describe the vital connection between locality and the food grown, raised, made and cooked there. Terroir as a concept, allows us to examine 'the taste of origin' as a set of cultural values about place, community, agricultural practices, and as a set of values.

Terroir V Hospitality Industry Symposium + Arlene Stein

More than 300 hospitality industry professionals will gather at University of Toronto’s Hart House for the fifth annual “Terroir” symposium on March. 1st 2011. The Terroir Symposium, is a non-profit educational event designed to celebrate the diverse culture of professionals in Ontario's hospitality industry.

Arlene Stein, Program Director of Evergreen Brick Works at Evergreen, is dedicated to working with growers and producers, chefs and restaurateurs to promote culinary experiences. Stein is founder and chair of Terroir which is now in its fifth year. Stein is a driving force in issues of food security and sustainability and works actively with many community organizations as well as being co-chair of Slow Food Toronto and active proponent of culinary tourism. As chair of the Terroir Symposium Steering Committee, Stein leads a committee of industry professionals that assemble some of Ontario’s most talented culinary professionals, who interact and share their knowledge and experience with their industry colleagues at Hart House. The team strives to deliver an annual symposium to educate, network, share resources and build the community that helps to strengthen our industry

Terroir’s mission is to deliver an innovative annual symposium that encourages community, culture and education to enhance the hospitality industry. A purpose of Terroir is to showcase Ontario’s regional food products and wine and interact with participants of the symposium with educational panels, workshops and tastings.

The Terroir symposium has become an annual gathering of Canada’s elite hospitality industry. The audience includes influential chefs, food writers, wine and food experts and business leaders. The Terroir symposium attracts people who are serious about the business of hospitality and who are dedicated to the development and refinement of their careers.

Terroir Symposium’s Goals:
• To provide a forum that fosters education and passion for the food and beverage industry
• To support a community of professionals within the hospitality industry and a culture of sharing and networking.

Program
Terroir V - March 1, 2011
7:30 am – 6:30 pm
Hart House, University of Toronto
7 Hart House Circle
View Larger Map

Program

“The path to greatness is along with others”-Baltasar Gracian

We believe the dining experience is a feast for the senses. The ambience of the dining room and the graceful, effortless choreography of the hosts and the servers reflect this harmony. We encourage our chefs to showcase their brilliance, originality and technique so that their plates are seen as works of art. Our plates reflect and respect the balance of tradition and innovation while displaying the spirit of our chefs and artisans.

Terroir values the unique contributions of all who are part of the alchemy that, through professional skills and artistic merit, transform the earth’s bounty into a vision. The fields and farms are our muse, the crafts persons are our artists and the dining experience is our chef-d’oeuvre.

While we value the traditions and technique of our industry as our guiding principles, ultimately it is the final product – the plate in front of you – that we enjoy as a true art form. At Terroir, we honour and celebrate the contributions of all to this art form…and then we drink!!

7:30 a.m. – 8:45 a.m. – Registration & Breakfast

9:00 a.m. – Opening remarks – Conference Chair – Arlene Stein

9:15 am to 10 a.m.

The Art of Hospitality

Hospitality can be defined as anticipating guests’ needs – whether they know them or not. A great restaurateur must not only foresee food trends but also those of style, formality and ambience. Crafting a successful restaurant requires one finger on the collective pulse of a dining public and another on the trends that shape the restaurant landscape.

We open this symposium with expert restaurateurs Sal Howell – The River Café Calgary, Chris McDonald – Cava Restaurant, Toronto & Craig Flynn – Chives Café, Halifax as they talk about how they have created unique restaurant experiences that have captivated diners for many years.

11:00 am to 12:30 pm – Concurrent Sessions

Session I: Brand New YOU! Branding from your soul.

Brands with soul share a passion and motivation with consumers and have a clear reason for being. They are harbingers not only of business, but of key values which add power to contemporary brands. Join our training experts for this fast-paced, hands-on workshop as you analyze the attributes of your personal and business brand. Participants will be divided into small working groups to explore how you can define your brand, how it links to excellence, and how to assess and market it. Roll up your sleeves for some fun and informative learning and leave with some concrete ‘take-aways’ for you and your business. An eye-opener for restaurant owners, chefs and sous chefs, caterers, front-of-house and bar managers. If you’re interested in opening a business in the food & hospitality sector, don’t miss this workshop!

Session II: Randall Grahm: “The Importance Of Terroir”; a philosophical approach to understanding a sense of place in viticulture.

Session III: The Origins of Taste – Joshna Maharaj & Bettina Schorman

12:30 pm to 2:00 p.m.

Brown Bag & Bubbles – Secret Lunch

Please join us for an eclectic “Secret Bag” Lunch that will evoke memories of simpler times while elevating the status of the classic brown-bag lunch. Lovingly prepared by seven of Toronto’s finest chefs, each bag will contain different and delicious items reflecting the vision and showcasing the skills of each chef. Vegan and vegetarian options will be available, but you won’t know exactly what’s in your bag until you open it! Keep yours to yourself, share or trade goodies with your new colleagues, but most of all enjoy! You lunch will be served with some of Ontario VQA’s finest wines and bubbles.

Participants; Donna Dooher – Proprietor & Executive Chef, Mildred’s Temple Kitchen, Jamie Kennedy – Executive Chef, JK Kitchen & Gilead Café, Marco Tucci – Executive Chef, Hart House, University of Toronto, Alex Johnston, Proprietor & Executive Chef Provenance Cuisine, Scott Vivian, Proprietor & Executive Chef Beast Restaurant, Karen Viva Haynes, Proprietor & Executive Chef Viva Tastings

2:00 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. – Concurrent Sessions

Session IV: “ Social Media Smackdown!

Join culinary tourism expert and social media darling Rebecca LeHeup (@OntarioCulinary) from the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance as she shares her social media keys to success and pulls out tricks of the trade with @Stevedolinsky. Rebecca will show you how to best utilize your social media networks and leverage them to help create the best brand advantage for the digital age.

Presenter: Rebecca LeHeup, Executive Director, Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance & Steve Dolinsky, Food Journalist and Broadcaster, Chicago

Session V: Riesling Kamp: A Slow Train Coming”

A facilitated tasting with Charles Baker – Stratus, Charles Baker Riesling, Ontario,

John Szabo Master Sommelier, Tom Penachetti – Cave Spring Cellars, Ontario, & Randall Grahm – Bonny Doon, California.

Session VI: The World of Steak: A Structured beef tasting

Led by Mark Schatzker, author of “Steak: One Man’s Search for the World’s Tastiest Piece of Beef”. He is a columnist for the Globe and Mail and a frequent contributor to Condé Nast Traveler.

Mark Schatzker obsession with steak sent him on a year-long journey spanning four continents in searchof the perfect steak. Along the way, Schatzker tried every cut, from as many different breeds of cattle as he could find, raised in every possible way. Still hungry, Schatzker raised his own grass and apple-fed beef in Grey County with the help of legendary chef, Michael Stadtländer.

Join Mark Schatzker for a “horizontal” beef tasting. Sample steak from different cattle breeds — Angus, Wagyu, Longhorn, to name a few — “finished” on a variety of different feeds, ranging from grain to grass. From carpaccio to asado, Schatzker will speak to the world’s preperation techniques and steak cultures as participants (literally) chew the fat.

Chef Matty Matheson & Matty DeMille – Parts & Labour, along with producers, First Light Waygu, YU Ranch & Scotch Mountain Meats

3:30 p.m. – 4:30 p.m.

Keynote Speaker

The Pleasure of Dining – A Discussion with Chef Fergus Henderson

“Life should be about conversions, shouldn’t it? Pleasure should be infectious.”-Fergus Henderson, St. John Bar & Restaurant, London UK

Chef Fergus Henderson is world-renowned as a pioneer and industry leader in the ‘nose-to-tail’ dining experience.

“Any time you see cheeks, tripe or marrow on a New York City menu,” Anthony Bourdain has written, “you can feel the ripples of his influence.”

Henderson opened St John Bar & Restaurant in London in 1994, having had no formal training in cooking; his approach was dictated by what he had learnt from his mother and the principles of his training as an architect.

In 1999 Henderson published Nose to Tail Eating: A Kind of British Cooking in which he provides recipes incorporating trotters, tripe, kidneys, chitterlings and other animal parts. Says Henderson, “It seems common sense and even polite to the animal to use all of it…”

He was awarded an MBE by Queen Elizabeth in 2005, and published the sequel, Beyond Nose To Tail in 2007.

Having received a Michelin Star in 2009, St John is now a Mecca for chefs and hospitality leaders as a place of comfort and inspiration; a restaurant specializing in crispy pig’s tails, headcheese and pot-roasted pig’s head has become an international destination.

In this exciting discussion, Chef Henderson shares his story; why he left his career as an architect to pursue his present craft, and how his experience might inspire other chefs to realize their artistic vision on the canvas of a dinner plate.

4:30 p.m. – 6 p.m. – Networking Reception –

OCTA Social Media Workshops 2011! Register Now!!

2011-01-25T08:20:00.001-08:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

OCTA Social Media Workshops 2011! Register Now!!

Are you looking to learn more about the world of social media? Are you interested in finding out how to build your online presence? Above all, are you keen to grow your business and customer base through social media? If so, The Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance is ready to help get you started on your social media journey.

Whether you’re an avid web surfer or a timid luddite, OCTA’s social media workshop will make it exciting and easy to navigate through the social media scene.

Hosted by OCTA’s executive director, Rebecca LeHeup, the two-hour workshop includes setting up a Twitter account, creating Facebook Fan page, linking your social media with Hootsuite and creating your own Daily.li newsletter. We’ll also offer ways to track your return on investment.

Each workshop can accommodate up to 50 participants and will be Wifi ready – so if you have a laptop handy be sure to bring it. If you're sans-computer, however, don’t worry. We’ll be sure you get step-by-step instructions for future use.

So get ready to dive headfirst into the exciting world of social media, and find out exactly how it can help spread the word of all those working in culinary tourism.

Tickets for the workshops are $20 per person and can be purchased via the links below.

Locations and Dates:

Elora Fergus & Guelph Wellington
Date: Thursday February, 24, 2011
Registration: 9:30 am – 10:00 am
Workshop: 10:00 am – 12:00 pm
Cost: $20 per person (not including HST or EventBrite Processing Fee)
Location: Aboyne Hall, Wellington County Museum
http://socialmediaguelph.eventbrite.com

Simcoe County
Date: Thursday March, 24, 2011
Registration: 9:30 am – 10:00 am
Workshop: 10:00 am – 12:00 pm
Cost: $20 per person (not including HST or EventBrite Processing Fee)
Location: Simcoe County Museum
http://socialmediasimcoe.eventbrite.com

Norfolk County
Date: Tuesday March 22, 2011
Registration: 12:30 pm – 1:00 pm
Workshop: 1:00 pm – 3:00 pm
Cost: $20 per person (not including HST or EventBrite Processing Fee)
Location: Serafina
http://socialmedianorfolk.eventbrite.com

Collingwood/Blue Mountain
Date: Wednesday March, 23, 2011
Registration: 9:30 am – 10:00 am
Workshop: 10:00 am – 12:00 pm
Cost: $20 per person (not including HST or EventBrite Processing Fee)
Location: Beaver Valley Community Centre, Thornbury
http://socialmediacollingwood.eventbrite.com

Stratford
Date: Tuesday February 23, 2011
Registration: 9:30 am – 10:00 am
Workshop: 10:00 am – 12:00 pm
Cost: $20 (not including HST or EventBrite Processing Fee)
Location: University of Waterloo, Stratford Campus
http://socialmediastratford.eventbrite.com

To Read More About Twitter Successes in Culinary Tourism Read These Stories by OCTA Operations Manager, Noelle Munaretto:

Twitter: Taking Hospitality to the Next Level
http://ontarioculinary.com/?p=4974

Twitter Uncorked: How Ontario Wineries are Using Social Media
http://ontarioculinary.com/?p=4915

Eating and Tweeting: Chefs Who Use Twitter
http://ontarioculinary.com/?p=4871

Tweeting From the Farmhouse: Using Social Media to Help Build Your Business
http://ontarioculinary.com/?p=4824

Terroir Hospitality Symposium March 1, 2011

2011-01-18T23:16:00.000-08:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

About Terroir

The Terroir symposium is an annual gathering of Canada’s elite hospitality industry. Our audience includes influential chefs, food writers, wine and food experts and business leaders. Terroir symposium attracts people who are serious about the business of hospitality and who are dedicated to the development and refinement of their careers.

The Terroir Symposium is a not-for-profit event driven be a committee of industry professionals. The team strives to deliver an annual symposium to educate, network, share resources and build the community that helps to strengthen our industry. The 2011 symposium will focus on the balance of artistic creation and traditional craftsmanship in our hospitality industry.

Terroir Symposium’s Mission:
To deliver an innovative annual symposium that encourages community, culture and education to enhance the hospitality industry.

Terroir Symposium’s Goals:
• To provide a forum that fosters education and passion for the food and beverage industry
• To support a community of professionals within the hospitality industry and a culture of sharing and networking.

Program
Terroir V - March 1, 2011
7:30 am – 6:30 pm
Hart House, University of Toronto
7 Hart House Circle
View Larger Map

Program

“The path to greatness is along with others”-Baltasar Gracian

We believe the dining experience is a feast for the senses. The ambience of the dining room and the graceful, effortless choreography of the hosts and the servers reflect this harmony. We encourage our chefs to showcase their brilliance, originality and technique so that their plates are seen as works of art. Our plates reflect and respect the balance of tradition and innovation while displaying the spirit of our chefs and artisans.

Terroir values the unique contributions of all who are part of the alchemy that, through professional skills and artistic merit, transform the earth’s bounty into a vision. The fields and farms are our muse, the crafts persons are our artists and the dining experience is our chef-d’oeuvre.

While we value the traditions and technique of our industry as our guiding principles, ultimately it is the final product – the plate in front of you – that we enjoy as a true art form. At Terroir, we honour and celebrate the contributions of all to this art form…and then we drink!!

7:30 a.m. – 8:45 a.m. – Registration & Breakfast

9:00 a.m. – Opening remarks – Conference Chair – Arlene Stein

9:15 am to 10 a.m.

The Art of Hospitality

Hospitality can be defined as anticipating guests’ needs – whether they know them or not. A great restaurateur must not only foresee food trends but also those of style, formality and ambience. Crafting a successful restaurant requires one finger on the collective pulse of a dining public and another on the trends that shape the restaurant landscape.

We open this symposium with expert restaurateurs Sal Howell – The River Café Calgary, Chris McDonald – Cava Restaurant, Toronto & Craig Flynn – Chives Café, Halifax as they talk about how they have created unique restaurant experiences that have captivated diners for many years.

11:00 am to 12:30 pm – Concurrent Sessions

Session I: Brand New YOU! Branding from your soul.

Brands with soul share a passion and motivation with consumers and have a clear reason for being. They are harbingers not only of business, but of key values which add power to contemporary brands. Join our training experts for this fast-paced, hands-on workshop as you analyze the attributes of your personal and business brand. Participants will be divided into small working groups to explore how you can define your brand, how it links to excellence, and how to assess and market it. Roll up your sleeves for some fun and informative learning and leave with some concrete ‘take-aways’ for you and your business. An eye-opener for restaurant owners, chefs and sous chefs, caterers, front-of-house and bar managers. If you’re interested in opening a business in the food & hospitality sector, don’t miss this workshop!

Session II: Randall Grahm: “The Importance Of Terroir”; a philosophical approach to understanding a sense of place in viticulture.

Session III: The Origins of Taste – Joshna Maharaj & Bettina Schorman

12:30 pm to 2:00 p.m.

Brown Bag & Bubbles – Secret Lunch

Please join us for an eclectic “Secret Bag” Lunch that will evoke memories of simpler times while elevating the status of the classic brown-bag lunch. Lovingly prepared by seven of Toronto’s finest chefs, each bag will contain different and delicious items reflecting the vision and showcasing the skills of each chef. Vegan and vegetarian options will be available, but you won’t know exactly what’s in your bag until you open it! Keep yours to yourself, share or trade goodies with your new colleagues, but most of all enjoy! You lunch will be served with some of Ontario VQA’s finest wines and bubbles.

Participants; Donna Dooher – Proprietor & Executive Chef, Mildred’s Temple Kitchen, Jamie Kennedy – Executive Chef, JK Kitchen & Gilead Café, Marco Tucci – Executive Chef, Hart House, University of Toronto, Alex Johnston, Proprietor & Executive Chef Provenance Cuisine, Scott Vivian, Proprietor & Executive Chef Beast Restaurant, Karen Viva Haynes, Proprietor & Executive Chef Viva Tastings

2:00 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. – Concurrent Sessions

Session IV: “ Social Media Smackdown!

Join culinary tourism expert and social media darling Rebecca LeHeup (@OntarioCulinary) from the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance as she shares her social media keys to success and pulls out tricks of the trade with @Stevedolinsky. Rebecca will show you how to best utilize your social media networks and leverage them to help create the best brand advantage for the digital age.

Presenter: Rebecca LeHeup, Executive Director, Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance & Steve Dolinsky, Food Journalist and Broadcaster, Chicago

Session V: Riesling Kamp: A Slow Train Coming”

A facilitated tasting with Charles Baker – Stratus, Charles Baker Riesling, Ontario,

John Szabo Master Sommelier, Tom Penachetti – Cave Spring Cellars, Ontario, & Randall Grahm – Bonny Doon, California.

Session VI: The World of Steak: A Structured beef tasting

Led by Mark Schatzker, author of “Steak: One Man’s Search for the World’s Tastiest Piece of Beef”. He is a columnist for the Globe and Mail and a frequent contributor to Condé Nast Traveler.

Mark Schatzker obsession with steak sent him on a year-long journey spanning four continents in searchof the perfect steak. Along the way, Schatzker tried every cut, from as many different breeds of cattle as he could find, raised in every possible way. Still hungry, Schatzker raised his own grass and apple-fed beef in Grey County with the help of legendary chef, Michael Stadtländer.

Join Mark Schatzker for a “horizontal” beef tasting. Sample steak from different cattle breeds — Angus, Wagyu, Longhorn, to name a few — “finished” on a variety of different feeds, ranging from grain to grass. From carpaccio to asado, Schatzker will speak to the world’s preperation techniques and steak cultures as participants (literally) chew the fat.

Chef Matty Matheson & Matty DeMille – Parts & Labour, along with producers, First Light Waygu, YU Ranch & Scotch Mountain Meats

3:30 p.m. – 4:30 p.m.

Keynote Speaker

The Pleasure of Dining – A Discussion with Chef Fergus Henderson

“Life should be about conversions, shouldn’t it? Pleasure should be infectious.”-Fergus Henderson, St. John Bar & Restaurant, London UK

Chef Fergus Henderson is world-renowned as a pioneer and industry leader in the ‘nose-to-tail’ dining experience.

“Any time you see cheeks, tripe or marrow on a New York City menu,” Anthony Bourdain has written, “you can feel the ripples of his influence.”

Henderson opened St John Bar & Restaurant in London in 1994, having had no formal training in cooking; his approach was dictated by what he had learnt from his mother and the principles of his training as an architect.

In 1999 Henderson published Nose to Tail Eating: A Kind of British Cooking in which he provides recipes incorporating trotters, tripe, kidneys, chitterlings and other animal parts. Says Henderson, “It seems common sense and even polite to the animal to use all of it…”

He was awarded an MBE by Queen Elizabeth in 2005, and published the sequel, Beyond Nose To Tail in 2007.

Having received a Michelin Star in 2009, St John is now a Mecca for chefs and hospitality leaders as a place of comfort and inspiration; a restaurant specializing in crispy pig’s tails, headcheese and pot-roasted pig’s head has become an international destination.

In this exciting discussion, Chef Henderson shares his story; why he left his career as an architect to pursue his present craft, and how his experience might inspire other chefs to realize their artistic vision on the canvas of a dinner plate.

4:30 p.m. – 6 p.m. – Networking Reception –

2011 Southwest Ontario Local Food Connection: Farmer / Food Buyer Networking Event and the Taste It! Gala

2011-01-18T22:04:00.000-08:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

The 2011 Southwest Ontario Local Food Connection: Farmer / Food Buyer Networking Event and the Taste It! Gala

The 2011 Southwest Ontario Local Food Connection: Farmer / Food Buyer Networking Event and the Taste It! Gala to be held at the London Farmers' and Artisans' Market in the historic Confederation building at the Western Fair on Tuesday March 29, 2011

This business to business event will run from 11:30 am to 3:00 pm. At noon the event will become an open forum business networking event with a roster of ‘local foods’ guest speakers, and followed by a Gala Taste of Southwest Ontario Foods Reception from 5:00 pm to 9:00 pm.

After a very successful event in 2010 the organizers are looking forward to an expanded program with an added public component offering a tasting reception of Ontario foods from Huron and Perth and the new RTO1 geographical designation to consumers. Last years event was well attended and identified many opportunities for collaboration and cooperation in our culinary and agricultural sector.

This networking event will help showcase the area and will help define the area as a whole, as well as build awareness about the agricultural and culinary identity throughout the entire geographical supply chain and to consumers. Southwest Ontario area is rich with culinary tourism and agri-tourism resources, but could benefit from a stronger regional identify.

This event is a partnership of a number of culinary, agricultural, tourism and destination marketing groups, individuals and businesses interested in providing expanded markets for local food, buying and featuring local food, and encouraging healthy lifestyles. The target audience for the event includes consumers, local producers and businesses engaged in the hospitality, culinary tourism, food retail, food-service and food distributing industries from Perth, Huron and the southwest Ontario RTO 1 regions which will include: Oxford County, Elgin County, London, Middlesex County, Haldimand County, Norfolk County, Sarnia-Lambton, Chatham-Kent and Windsor-Essex.

Dragonfly Bistro

2011-01-17T04:41:00.000-08:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Dragonfly Bistro — Simple, Stylish and Sophisticated

“Bistro,” a restaurant category that harkens back to the late 19th century in France and the early 20th century in England, is flexible in its connotations, but always refers to an establishment where one can have a meal as well as drinks. True bistros are generally small, and their menus are characteristically comprised of straightforward selections, often rustic in nature but not pricey. The Dragonfly Bistro is one such place.

For me, the name Dragonfly conjures up images of beauty and exotica. The adult dragonfly can thrust itself in six directions: downward, upward, forward, backward, and side to side, so the choice of the name Dragonfly for the restaurant intrigued me.

The story of why Dragonfly was chosen as the restaurant’s name was told to me by Nora Yuriaan, co-owner and spouse of the chef. It is a deeply personal story of homage and loss and one that resonated deeply with me, reminding me that life can be painful and tragic, but that the resilience of the human spirit can overcome life’s worst heartbreaks.

Before I interviewed Donald and Nora Yuriaan for this story, I had an impromptu and delicious lunch at the restaurant, which rivalled those offered at some of the best lunch spots in the city. Nora and I had never met, and the service Nora provided was attentive, personal and efficient. (Nora works lunch shifts and spends the evenings with their three children.)

Even though the restaurant has large and attractive windows facing the street, in some respects it remains hidden in plain sight at the north end of Richmond Row, housed in the premises once occupied by the Village Café. Seated by the window, I have on several occasions watched many inquisitive passers-by stop to peruse the menu posted in the window and then resume walking. I want to advise them to step inside to the intimate 24-seat dining room, which is now in its fourth year of operation.

When you first walk into the restaurant, you are immediately greeted, your coat is taken, and you are properly seated. There is a disposition of giving and taking pride and pleasure in giving hospitality and providing warm service.

Smaller restaurants seem to impart an intimacy, conviviality and hospitality that can never be duplicated in larger spaces. Compact premises might bear more scrutiny, but the type of familiarity they afford often breeds mutual respect and appreciation for both the kitchen and patrons. This has been evident on the several visits I have made to the Dragonfly. There are starched white linen tablecloths and napkins here, as well as impeccably set tables with quality cutlery and polished stemware that add panache to the surroundings.

The kitchen is compact but ordered. Chef Yuriaan produces fresh, healthful and classic dishes that can be executed with ease and simplicity. Chef emphasizes that the menus are designed to accommodate seasonal ingredients and locally procured foods. Despite a commitment to sourcing locally, no one is going to lecture you about the provenance of the ingredients on the menu. However, you can be well assured that Chef respects his craft and the provenance of the products that he uses.

The culinary legacy of West Java, in Indonesia, might seem like an audacious muse for this intimate and stylish restaurant. However, Chef Yuriaan is Indonesian by birth and was previously employed at the Grand Hotel Preanger in Bandung, the capital of West Java, after graduating from Hotel Management. For several years, Chef Yuriaan was employed by both Holland America and Norwegian cruise lines.

On the menu, there is plenty of spice for those who seek heat. Mere heat, however, is not all that most of Dragonfly Bistro’s clients desire. We were enthused by the sambal-like hot and spicy chili sauce that bathed the Indonesian- inspired Ayam Balado (chicken breast served with a spicy red chili, tomato and spice sauce with shallots, garlic, ginger, galangal, lemon grass, palm sugar, lime leaves and candle nuts) on the current dinner menu. Other entrees on the dinner menu include locally farmed Pheasant, Grilled Halibut, Steak Diane and Roasted Rack of Lamb. On three occasions, we were impressed with Chefs’ velvety Cream of Jerusalem Artichoke Soup.
On Monday nights, Chef proffers an ever-changing prix fixe menu that is perfect for anyone looking for a rich and varied range of Indonesian favours. Sour notes of galingal, lemon grass, tamarind and lime leaves offer more subtlety and range to the cooking. Not since Mies Bervoest stopped serving a skilled repertoire of Indonesian -inspired dishes in a rijsttafel at the former Miestro restaurant several years back, have we had access to these flavour mixtures.

Aware of the challenges of spouses working together, Nora told me that she and Donald share a mutual respect both at home and at work. The Yuriaans have been married for fourteen years, after meeting in Majorca. They now reside in St. Thomas with their children, so they both commute to and from work daily. The Yuriaans do not open on Sundays because this has been sanctioned as a family day.

The Dragonfly Bistro has a commendable kitchen, a moderately priced menu, and service that is amiable, professional and hospitable. If you are planning to visit for Indonesian Food on Monday nights, be sure to make a reservation.

715 Richmond Street, London, ON N6A 3H1
519.432.2191
Email: dragonfly bistro@bellnet.ca

Bryan Lavery is a well-known chef, business consultant, food writer and former restaurateur with many years in consulting and advisory roles with various companies.

Southwest Ontario Local food Connection

2011-01-16T07:03:00.000-08:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

The website http://www.southwestontariolocalfoodconnection.ca is up and running.
It currently has 3 pages with more to be added over time.

Garlic's, From Scratch - Upscale Rustic Cuisine with Local, Sustainable Ingredients

2010-12-03T14:11:00.000-08:00

A Taste of Honey at Garlic's

Garlic's, From Scratch - Upscale Rustic Cuisine with Local, Sustainable Ingredients

In the sense that the smart money today is on chef's and restaurants that wear their values on the menu, Garlic's leads by example and with plenty of style and a cutting edge culinary vision. The menu exemplifies a culinary philosophy that promotes the economic, environmental and social benefits of our local food community. This is some of the most superb farm-to-table cuisine in the city. The cooking has a contemporary edge, made from scratch with inspiration from local and signature ingredients and seasonal products. And, Chef Wade Fitzgerald's cooking repertoire just keeps getting better, the presentation more sophisticated and artful. Garlic's commitment to supporting local and sustainable food and agriculture has been instrumental in helping to raise the bar for intelligent dining in London.

Five years ago, Garlic's owner, Edo Pehilj, recognized that Fitzgerald's culinary philosophy would inject a much needed dose of adrenalin into his recently purchased restaurant. However, Pehilji's leadership and collaboration with Fitzgerald and Guest Relations Manager, Emma Pratt, has been a key factor in Garlic's revitalization and current standing as one of the city's top kitchens and best restaurants.

Pehlij also understands the need for professional, hospitable and gracious service. Leading the team of professional servers is Emma Pratt. Pratt is intelligent, detail oriented, vivacious and gracious. Pehlij credits Pratt for Garlic's sophistication, which he then attributes to the female perspective. Pratt has been employed at Garlic's off and on for the better part of 15 years.

In fact, it was Pratt that originally hired Pehilj thirteen years ago. Pehilji's is the quintessential immigration story. Arriving in Canada 18 years ago from, Mostar, the biggest and the most important city of the Bosnia and Herzegovina region in the former Yugoslavia by way of Bavaria, Germany. Pehilji did not speak a word of English but within 7 days he was working at Michael's on the Thames. The rest as they say is history.

When Fitzgerald arrived on the London scene after a brief tenure at the renowned Domus restaurant in Ottawa, and via the Hunt Club in London. Fitzgerald brings his signature ideology to the table: a patriotic sensibility and an unpretentious earthiness and rusticity. Fitzgerald has become a local culinary powerhouse, known for his simple, seasonal, ethically-sourced rustic food.

Garlic's menu evolves and changes monthly to reflect high-quality seasonal availability. Pehlji, Fitzgerald and Pratt understand that provenance and direct farmer relationships have become key to the restaurant's success. Menus are a collaborative exercise. Rose White, of London's important City Farming project, cites Garlic's and Fitzgerald in particular as leaders in this area.

As an ingredient, garlic is a less dominant theme than previously in the cuisine, in Fitzgeralds hands it is purposeful. Honey has become yet another way for Garlic's customers to appreciate terroir. As a result, honey has become of Garlic's signature ingredients. You will find their roof-top harvested honey drizzled, crystallized, sprinkled and incorporated in many ways and forms throughout their menus. Naturally, honey is used to sweeten and flavour house-made desserts – like their delicious, subtly sweet bee pollen ice cream.

Garlic's roof-top apiary was the first installation of honey bees in the city. In the spring of 2009, noted local beekeeper, Chris Hiemstra, of Clovermead Apiaries just outside Aylmer, established the prolific colony of 30-40,000 honey bees. The family apiary was first established in 1975 by Hiemstra's father.

In the wider community, one of Garlic's mandate is to help educate elementary students. Garlic's has hosted dinners for high school students to introduce them to the seasonal and sustainable food philosophy. Fitzgerald has also been an early adopter and adviser of the Local Foods Farmer Food Buyer Networking event, which has successfully provided a platform for farmers, producers and food buyers to meet one-on-one and to explore opportunities to do business together. Fitzgerald is also a member of Growing Chefs!, a program that teaches kids about local, sustainable food and, through a series of workshops, helps them grow, harvest, cook and eat local produce. In combination with his responsibilities as Executive Chef, Fitzgerald is a part-time Chef Instructor at Fanshawe College's Saffron's Restaurant. Saffron's is of course, the on-campus restaurant run be the school of Tourism and Hospitality.

Garlic's also features a roof-top apiary, the first installation of a honey bee colony in the city. In the spring of 2009, noted local beekeeper, Chris Hiemstra, of Clovermead Apiaries just outside Aylmer, established the prolific colony of 30-40,000 honey bees. The family apiary was first established in 1975 by Hiemstra's father. This year Hiemstra spun honey from the comb supplying the restaurant with over fifty kilograms of honey.

A salad of local organic greens, sunflower seeds, toasted pumpkin seeds, almonds, over-night grapes, is accompanied with Clovermead's bee pollen and honey vinaigrette. Other main dishes have included: pan roasted, sustainable B.C. Albacore Tuna, Brown Butter Roasted Renecker Farm's Elk Loin with a succotash of spaetzle, old cheddar, apple and squash with red onion pan jus, Metzger's free-range, dry-aged Angus Top Sirloin, braised Ontario Lamb Shank with truffled northern white bean and house-smoked bacon stew, veal stock roasted mushrooms and tomato relish. Everspring Farm's Muscovy Duck Breast. As of this writing there is a delicious appetizer of Braised Pork Belly with molasses baked beans and crisp buttermilk onion rings.

Finding steady and dependable sources for procuring local ingredients has been a strategic plan that has resulted in numerous collaborations and friendships with farmers and producers.

For a bit of nectar, Pehlji only has to look as far as the rooftop where he has a colony devoted to sweetness.

Open Sunday through Thursday 11:00 am to 9:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:00 am to 11:00pm. Serving an a la carte Sunday Brunch 11:00 am to 3:00pm.

481 RICHMOND ST, LONDON, ON N6A 3E4
519-432-4092
dine@garlicsoflondon.com
www.garlicsoflondon.com

Billy's Downtown Deli

2010-12-03T14:02:00.000-08:00

Billy’s Downtown Deli

At a dinner party recently, we were trying to figure out what was the best breakfast spot in the city. Billy’s Deli won hands down.

Billy’s Deli on Dundas Street has been a downtown London fixture for thirty years. Former retirees Diane and Joe Pritchard purchased the business in 2004, and kept the name, the concept, the menu and the ambiance. Gradually, the Pritchards put their own mark on the deli, but in many respects it remains the original Billy’s.

The Pritchards have worked very hard to keep Billy’s the downtown institution it has become, and it still has the best corn beef sandwiches and latkes in the city, according to this writer.

Just over a year ago, the Pritchards revised their hours to better suit their hockey-loving clientele. Closing on Mondays, they opened on Sundays from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Although mainly a breakfast and lunch spot, the deli is open with a special menu of Billy’s classics on Friday nights when the London Knights are in their hometown at the John Labatt Centre.

The proximity of Billy’s to the Covent Garden Market and the John Labatt Centre has helped increase Billy’s profile and popularity. Billy’s welcoming and relaxing atmosphere serves as an anchor to a growing core of destination restaurants on this block of Dundas Street. These restaurants include Braise Food and Wine, Thaifoon, Jambalaya, and the recently opened Tamarine by Quynh Nhi.

In the beginning of the Pritchards’ tenure as new owners, many of the original floor staff stayed on to help them through the transition from one owner to the next. The staff acted like quality-control technicians, ensuring the food lived up to Billy’s standards, and they provided additional input and commentary about eventual menu changes. In fact, it was only last year that Brenda Bissett (known around the city as the breakfast goddess, due to her friendliness and consummate professional service) left their employ to work with her husband. For many years, she was a much-appreciated constant in the lives of early-morning diners. Friendly efficient service has been Billy’s hallmark.

Billy’s actually looks less like a traditional deli and more like a diner, with three rows of tables with bench seating along the walls, four tables with chairs in the centre, and a pastry counter near the front door, connected to a welcoming display window. The main room has been recently redecorated and updated, but retains its freshly scrubbed, homespun appearance. There is also additional seating on the second level when it gets busy or for private parties and events.

And Billy’s does get busy — very busy — because it has legions of loyal regulars and new converts on a daily basis. The deli is well-known for its exceptional breakfast menu, and the regulars congregate Saturday and Sunday mornings to partake in the deli’s delicious offerings that inspire great conversation over a cup of steaming coffee. Unfortunately, Billy’s is closed on Sundays on holiday weekends.

Breakfast offerings include everything from omelettes to crisp potato latkes served with sour cream and homemade applesauce, to Huevos Rancheros, a classic Mexican breakfast, presented at Billy’s as an ample dish of eggs, sautéed peppers, black beans, chopped lettuce, black olives and cheddar, served on baked tortillas with a homemade spicy-sweet tomato chili sauce and then oven-baked.

Another signature breakfast dish is the Skillet, served piping hot in a flat-bottomed, cast-iron pan heaped with caramelized onions, sautéed peppers, potatoes, corned beef, smoked ham, bacon, two eggs and melted cheddar.

For lunch, specialty deli sandwiches like the quintessential Reuben and Montreal smoked meat sandwiches are made with a quarter pound of meat, warm and sliced off the brisket. There are always interesting daily blackboard specials designed to entice diners, and these offerings add seasonality to the extensive traditional deli offerings. Because they follow the seasons, daily specials are likely to be inspired and made from fresh ingredients featured at the nearby Covent Garden Market.

Another of Billy’s characteristic marks is baking that has been greatly influenced by the Mennonite style as practised in the Kitchener-Waterloo region of Ontario. Their homemade seasonal jams, preserves and pies are genuinely food that really schmecks, made with fresh ingredients. The pies change with the seasons. Fresh berries come from Rudy and Florence Heeman’s strawberry farm and greenhouses located on the outskirts of the city.

Over the years, I have sampled the rhubarb with sour cream pie (a perennial favourite and a house signature made even more popular by the LCBO's Food & Drink magazine), as well as strawberry-rhubarb, raspberry, bumbleberry, pumpkin, mincemeat and the very popular five-pound apple crumb pie. All delicious in season. Then of course, there are their cream pies, made with rich custards of chocolate, coconut, lemon, butterscotch (naming but a few), all topped with whipped cream. Give Billy’s a days notice and you can take your favourite pie home with you.

Billy’s Deli
113 Dundas Street
www.billysdelirestaurant.ca

Tuesday to Saturday 7:30 a.m. – 3 p.m.
Sunday 9 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Bryan Lavery is a well-known chef, business consultant, food writer, and former restaurateur, with many years in consulting and advisory roles with various companies.

Savour London - Culinary Tourism

2010-11-07T09:54:00.000-08:00

Culinary Tourism

Savour a Taste of London

I have some great news for London. Supported by John Winston and Marty Rice at Tourism London, the city of London is now an officially recognized culinary tourism region and a member of the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance. Recently, I attended the Ontario Culinary Tourism Summit in Toronto with Chris McDonell (publisher of eatdrink magazine) and Kathy McLaughlin, a longtime culinary tourism proponent and representative of Downtown London. We took part in this conference in order to explore ways to advance our local Culinary Tourism Initiative.

There were several hundred culinary tourism proponents and professionals gathered at the MaRS Discovery District in Toronto for this, the second annual Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance (OCTA) Summit. The summit is an educational event designed to celebrate the diversity of culinary tourism in Ontario. This year’s summit was about higher learning in culinary tourism, varsity style.

This gathering was an opportunity to meet and network with peers and colleagues. It was also a chance to brush shoulders with the likes of celebrity chefs Jamie Kennedy and Michael Smith. It was an occasion to celebrate Ontario’s culinary bounty and to champion the connection between “taste and place” and experience some of the finest culinary offerings and talent in Ontario. OCTA firmly believes that farmers are the unsung heroes of our food systems.

OCTA is currently made up of 27 organizations representing over 10,000 businesses across the province. OCTA is all about supporting connections among all those who want to see culinary tourism projects thrive and flourish in their area. OCTA shines the light on the importance of buying local to support local farmers, establishing regional culinary tourism sectors in Ontario, food sustainability, mapping culinary destinations, and charting sustainable solutions to advance culinary tourism in Ontario.

Building on the empowering success of past Culinary Tourism Summits, the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance partnered with the Province of Ontario, Savour Ontario Dining, Green Belt, Local Food Plus and other stakeholders to create this year’s summit. The event was hosted by Rebecca LeHeup, Executive Director of the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance. The day’s agenda included an opening address by the Ontario Minister of Agriculture, Food & Rural Affairs, Carol Mitchell, and Ontario Deputy Minister (Acting) Tourism and Culture, Steven Davidson. The first hour was devoted to Chef Michael Smith, a charming raconteur and larger than life personality who was the summit’s keynote speaker and the culinary ambassador for P.E.I.

The summit consisted of panel discussions, presentations and networking, allowing delegates to learn from the experiences and knowledge of the practitioners of Culinary Tourism in Ontario. The summit also provided an opportunity to learn more about culinary tourism best practices, and farming successes cultivated through culinary tourism. Topics included Creating and Developing a Sustainable Seafood Menu with Ocean Wise, Respecting Terroir in the Glass and on the Plate by Local Food Plus and the Wine Council of Canada, and Tastes That Tempt the Media, about what attracts a culinary journalist to a particular destination. The media panel featured well-known food writers Adam Sachs, Randall Shirley and Steve Dolinsky.

Midday we were fêted to a “locavore’s” cafeteria organized by Chef Jamie Kennedy. There were chefs from all across Ontario representing the “tastes” of twelve of our culinary regions. The locavore cafeteria wasn’t just about food. Organized by Wines of Ontario, there was a variety of wine tastings from across the province, highlighting some of Ontario’s best and most unique blends and vintages.

London’s culinary community offers a diverse and sophisticated selection of multicultural dining and retail experiences. There is a growing recognition of local and artisanal food services, and a growing number of well-known farmers, producers, retailers, educators, and writers who are working to advance the local food culture. Besides providing just plain old-fashioned hospitality to our visitors and our neighbours, we are working hard to promote the recognition of our culinary terroir as a manifestation of our local culture.

London’s downtown core has the highest concentration of sophisticated owner-operated and casual fine dining restaurants and some of the best gourmet and culinary retail in the country. The proximity of these restaurants and shops to major hotels, the Convention Centre, the John Labatt Centre, the Grand Theatre, the Arts Project, performance halls, and most of London’s outdoor festivals have contributed to a unique downtown dining culture.

In terms of mapping the current culinary-related experiences, in addition to the seasonal and many multicultural food festivals and events, London also has a number of community and farmers’ markets: Covent Garden Market, Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market, Trail’s End, and seasonal farmers’ markets at Covent Garden, Masonville and the nearby St. Thomas Horton Farmers’ Market; as well as independent specialty and gourmet food retailers.

We also have unique local farmers, community gardens, rooftop gardeners, apiaries and other niche growers who are a burgeoning group dedicated to creating ethical local, sustainable food systems. An example of collaboration among local chefs (30 chef participants) is the innovative Growing Chefs! program organized by its director Andrew Fleet, for London schoolchildren.

London has various gastronomic and ethical culinary and oenophile associations, as well as Green Drinks and a local Slow Food convivium presided over by Melanie Doerksen, which has been operating since 2003.

London also has a new Food Charter. The Food Charter has emerged from the community’s shared priorities of eliminating poverty and increasing healthy eating. This Charter establishes a vision of London as a food-secure community.
The Local Farmer and Foods Buyer Networking Event has become an annual event connecting farmers, chefs, caterers, food retailers, processors, distributors, and food service and institutional food providers looking to offer more local food. The 2011 event will be held at the Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market in late March. This year there will be a ticketed gala evening portion that will be open to the public. This event will pair farmers and chefs together to showcase the diversity of our local offerings and talents.

Locally, independent producers, retailers, chefs, restaurateurs, and some longtime culinary professionals have provided a fresh supply of local foods, artisan products and ingredients, and both innovative and traditional food preparation methods, giving us the opportunity to experience not only our unique local terroir and cultural heritage, but a mosaic of diverse ethnic cuisines.

Today, London is one of the hottest locales in Ontario for supporting local terroir. We have star chefs like Wade Fitzgerald at Garlic’s, Kristain Crossen at Braise Food & Wine, Josie Pontarelli at Abruzzi, Tim D’Souza at the Idelwyld Inn, and Jason Schubert and Paul Harding at The Only on King, offering truly regional farm-to-table dining experiences. A new contender in the restaurant community is the Kantina Café, serving sophisticated Serbian fare prepared with local ingredients by Chef Danijel Markovic. All these chefs showcase innovative cuisine featuring the best local and quality seasonal ingredients.

It is important to remember that it is still easy to find plenty of other fine restaurants in and around our 42 distinct neighbourhoods, including a number of distinct dining districts: downtown, Richmond Row, Hamilton Road, the hotel district, Wortley Village, and a variety of other clusters that include a diverse mosaic of ethnic restaurants and grocers throughout the city. London is a city where you can eat very well on a limited budget. You can also find some hidden gems in our residential suburbs and other areas of the city that until recently were considered culinary deserts. The Old East Village is a great example of a former culinary desert that has been re-invigorated in the last few years with the Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans' Market and a number of small restaurants and cafés like: Wisdom Teashop, True Taco (Mexican Food), Spring (a hidden gem, with a rec room atmosphere but delicious and authentic Chinese food), and of course, the charming and innovative Old East Village Coffee Shop and the new Petite Cafe.

Hospitality and the culinary arts have always been an important and integral part of the local creative class. Here in London we have a long history of exceptional restaurants, talented chefs and gourmet retailers. Our community is always evolving, responding to current trends and changes, and adapting to the economy. We have some longtime, stand-out culinary professionals working in and around our community, who continue to advance our culinary culture. People like Chef David Chapman of David’s Bistro, Felipe Gomes of Aroma, and Betty Heydon of Blackfriars, for example. These are the unsung culinary heroes who just do what they do so well every day without attention or celebration, teaching new generations of cooks and restaurant personnel what hospitality means.

In recent years, our already vibrant culinary community has found itself on a renewed trajectory of local culinary patriotism, with a dedicated commitment to our terroir as a manifestation of our local culture. Londoners recognize our unique and delicious products, and are proud to provide the latest culinary and beverage experiences to increasingly sophisticated customers.

The Raja Fine Indian Cuisine

2010-10-11T08:50:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

The Raja Fine Indian Cuisine

Indian cuisine is a vast and sophisticated subject. India’s states and territories differ, cuisine-wise, as much if not more than the regional cuisines of other countries. Caste, culture. religious doctrine, geography, and climate have all played an immense role in preventing the emergence of a truly definitive national Indian cuisine. Despite the diversity, some coalescing threads surface on closer inspection. However, most of what we consider authentic Indian cuisine is a product of the British imperial influence, which resulted in a prolific Anglo-Indian restaurant cuisine that panders to the global masses.

I initially became familiar with this style of restaurant cooking while living in England on two separate occasions. Going out for an “Indian” or a “Curry” or getting an Indian “takeaway” was a national pastime. The idea of a curry is, in fact, a definition that the British imposed on India’s cookery to describe any spiced dish under the generic term “curry.” Historically, Indians referred to their individual dishes by very specific regional names.

Living in England, I was struck by the emergence of authentic regional Indian, Pakistani and Bangladeshi restaurants, and the elevation of these unique cuisines to as elegant, sophisticated and refined as any other cuisine. Today, the Indian food industry in the United Kingdom accounts for two-thirds of all eating out, and is estimated to serves about 2.5 million customers every week.

I was pleased to recently sample the cuisine of London’s new Raja restaurant.

Restaurateur Zafar Quazi was born in Bangladesh (the borders of the present-day Bangladesh were established with the partition of Bengal and India in 1947, when the region became East Pakistan, part of the newly formed nation of Pakistan) and later moved to the Ukraine to study civil engineering. He spent six years in Great Britain, three of them in Scotland running a restaurant in Inverness, before coming to Canada. While in Scotland, Quazi met his Ukrainian wife, Olena. They have two daughters. The Quazi’s first Canadian endeavour was in Brantford, followed by the Tandoori Grill in Fergus, in turn followed by the highly successful and celebrated Raja Fine Indian Cuisine in Stratford. Two years ago, Quazi set his sights on downtown London, Ontario.

Zahirul Chowdury, twelve years younger than Quazi, left Bangladesh in 2001. Chowdury immigrated to Canada and studied at the University of St. John in New Brunswick before relocating to Ontario, where he was introduced to Quazi by his brother. At the time, Quazi was actively looking for someone to manage his new Stratford restaurant, and Chowdury more than fit the bill.

When the time was right to open a second Raja in London, Quazi offered Chowdury a partnership so that he could manage as well as co-own the new enterprise. The Raja Fine India Cuisine is located in the premises most recently occupied by Santorini, and before that, for decades, the legendary Mario’s (known for its late-night panzerotti) and later, the more upscale Marios and Jaggz.

The Raja serves upscale Indian cuisine in sophisticated and elegant surroundings by a knowledgeable, well-trained staff. The service is white linen, deferential and friendly. The cutlery and crystal are elegant, and the china is fine Royal Doulton Hospitality Ware. After being seated, diners are offered crisp, crunchy poppadoms served alongside a dazzling selection of vibrantly coloured condiments, ranging from sweet to sour to spicy, to get the taste buds tingling. The condiments include: gooseberry, coriander, tamarind, mango, yogurt and mint, and lime pickle.

There are also a number of exotic breads (naan, roti and paratha) on offer to accompany and complement various courses, all freshly baked in Raja’s tandoor (clay oven). The delicious Peshawari naan is stuffed with almonds, dried apricots, raisins, flaked dried coconut, and whipping cream, and seems more like cake than bread.

Share the mixed platter with vegetable pakora, chicken tikka, sheek kabab, and onion bhajee, all served on a sizzling platter. Or pick a garden salad or soup course (the menu includes mulligatawny and lentil), then choose from chicken, beef, lamb, vegetarian, or seafood dishes, which run the gamut from mild to very spicy. From the ubiquitous Punjab-inspired Butter Chicken, boneless, marinated in yogurt and spices, cooked in the tandoor and presented in creamy tomato gravy, to the very spicy and hottest of dishes on the menu, vindaloo, made with your choice of lamb, beef, or chicken. Another house specialty is the unusual Bengal Duck, which is prepared with sweet chili sauce, coconut and almond, and has a decidedly complex hot and sweet taste.

At Raja, Rogan Josh is tender morsels of braised beef, slow-cooked with an aromatic spice mixture and yogurt. Yogurt is frequently used in Indian cuisine as a marinade to tenderize the meat. Rogan Josh derives its name from its rich appearance, which is generally a result of ground chilies or brightly coloured good-quality paprika combined with fresh tomatoes. Rogan Josh takes on a contemporary twist with lean lamb chunks, ghee, garam masala, garlic, ginger, and fresh cilantro.

The menu also features a heady selection of fish and seafood dishes, such as King Prawn Jhalfrezi (stir-fried with fresh green chilies, tomatoes, green peppers, and fresh coriander, and finished with fresh ginger and garlic), fish (salmon), Masala, and King Prawn Sag.

The perfectly prepared Pulao rice, aromatic basmati with onion, cumin and mild spices, ordered separately, is not an afterthought but an integral part of dinner. As well, vegetarian selections figure prominently here, as in all Indian cooking. There are nearly a dozen meticulously spiced vegetarian dishes on the extensive menu. Vegetable specialties include: Aloo Gobhi, Chana Masala (chick peas), Sag Paneer (spinach with homemade cottage cheese), Bharta (eggplant), and Daal Tarka (lentils in garlic). Vegan dishes are also available.

The Raja has plenty of personality, and the dining room has character and sophistication with its deep red painted walls and white accents. The cuisine is superior. The service rivals anything in the city.

The Raja
428 Clarence St. (North of Dundas)
519-601-7252

Lunch: Mon.–Sat. 11:30 am – 2:30 pm
Dinner: Mon.–Sat. 5 pm. – 10 pm
Sun 5 pm – 9 pm

Lunch $7 – $14
Dinner $14 – $25
Prix Fixe Dinner for Two – $85

Western Fair Fare

2010-09-29T12:10:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Western Fair Fare

Earlier in the year, I was busy writing Taste London, the comprehensive culinary guide supporting tourism and the local restaurant and hospitality community, and promoting the terroir and culinary assets of our local culture. The guide was also developed to jump-start the local culinary tourism initiative, as well as a way of shining the spotlight on our agricultural sector, the working landscape in our neck of the woods.

As I looked around the city, I came to realize that no analysis of our unique culinary tourism infrastructure would be complete without a closer inspection of the facilities at the Western Fairgrounds and its role in both the agricultural and culinary community.

Western Fair Association

Interestingly, the Western Fair Association (WFA) receives its nonprofit organization status because of its agricultural relationship with the surrounding counties. An important player in our progressive agricultural society, one of the WFA’s mandates is to support the ongoing development of the agricultural industry and promote its values to the urban community. The main agricultural links that the WFA have are: Western Fair Agriplex, the Fair itself, and the Western Fair Farmers’ Market in the Confederation building.
This past summer, the WFA found itself embroiled in a public-relations nightmare when it decided to charge a $5 admission to disabled fairgoers and their attendants. Responding to the onslaught of public criticism and outrage, the WFA commendably reversed its decision.

Critics of the Western Fair have noted that the WFA is exempt from taxes and receives a reduction on the rent it pays for its city-owned property. However, it is typical in cities to grant this status to public venues that operate for the good of the community.

In a study commissioned in 2006, the direct positive impact of the WFA, including wages, supplies and services purchased annually, is $63,332,000. And, indirectly the London economy benefits by an additional $50,874,000 through the multiplier effect.
Once the dominant local activity in the fall, the Fair itself struggles to break even each year. Attendance at this year’s Western Fair was 178,110, down 18% from last year. This is not unique to the Western Fair; it’s a trend all across North America. The Fair has historically been the signature offering of the WFA, but it would be incorrect to assume that the Fair will or should remain the same. The entertainment business is very dynamic, and as the public’s wants and expectations change, vibrant businesses also have to adjust their strategies and plans to address these expectations.

Strong marketing from other centers in Ontario competes with the Fair, as well as other local entertainment offerings that didn’t exist ten years ago. In addition to that, there are one hundred fall fairs in Ontario alone. Still, nostalgia is a powerful motivator, and studies show that it is among the main reasons people return. While the Western Fair’s attraction for adults may have diminished, it still holds excitement for their children.

In addition to the midway, the Fair offers a wide variety of entertainment and events. And of course at fair time, there is always lots of food, much of it of a questionable nature. From artery-clogging poutine to corn dogs smothered in mustard to the latest fair food sensation, deep-fried butter: timbit-size balls of butter, covered in cake batter and fried in oil.

In recent years, it appears that the WFA’s primary attractions have become mostly unrelated to agriculture. The WFA’s 2009 annual report lists net revenue (after direct expenditures) from racing and gaming as nearly $8.5 million. The Western Fair, also features a state-of-the-art 160,000-square-foot multi-use sports facility.

Western Fair Agriplex

Construction of Western Fair’s state-of-the-art Agriplex facility was completed in the summer of 2004. The primary goal of the Agriplex is to improve the Fair’s ability to accommodate agricultural events and shows on a year-round basis. With this in mind, the facility includes a 360-seat Educational Auditorium, which is used for lectures and educational clinics, and can also be used as a sales arena for livestock or agri-trade and consumer shows. The show arena has trusses spanning nearly 200 feet, with a dirt floor for horse and cattle shows, and can be converted to accommodate indoor sporting events. The Agriplex has showcased events ranging from international equestrian shows and horse sales to local and regional 4-H activities.

The London Wine and Food Show

Since its successful debut in 2006, The London Wine and Food Show, held at the Progress Building at the Western Fairgrounds has received accolades from industry insiders, exhibitors and patrons. This annual event in January showcases London’s culinary culture, with participation from surrounding counties, including Tourism Stratford and the Stratford Chefs School, as well as Fanshawe College. You can expect a delicious mix of all that interests the informed food and wine connoisseurs or just regular folk who like great food. This has quickly become one of London’s “marquee” culinary events.
The potential is enormous to grow this event into one of this region’s premiere culinary events rivaling the popularity of Savour Stratford or Terroir in Toronto.

Panorama Pavilion at the Western Fair

The organizers of The London Food and Wine Show also developed the new cultural showcase, the Panorama Pavilion, to replace the former International Food and Travel Building in the Special Events Building during the Fair. The Panorama Pavilion was conceived to entice fairgoers to the Canada Building to celebrate the multicultural diversity of the city. During the fair, a different culture was celebrated to highlight London’s ethnic diversity. There were culinary offerings from Afrofesta (music, food, dance and arts, an African-Caribbean-Canadian extravaganza designed to celebrate the city’s diverse and rich black culture), Mexico, Italy, India, Germany, Latin America, Oneida First Nations, and Muslim Heritage day.
Angela Greco Wilson, coordinator of Festa Italiana at the Covent Garden Market, the city’s liveliest and most successful cultural festival, praised organizers of the Panorama Pavilion for the professionalism of their staff and the ease with which the event came together, despite having little lead in time.

Western Fair Farmers’ Market

Over in the Western Fair Farmers’ Market, which was open for the entirety of the fair, vendors fought with McDonald’s, who tried to give away coupons inside the Market on opening day. Many people in the local and indeed the international food community are of the opinion that McDonald’s is the polar opposite of everything the Farmers’ Market and its vendors stand for. McDonald’s countered the opposition by stating that they give the Western Fair Association lots of money for the privilege of being at the gates.

The food vendors had a Carlo Petrini moment, and McDonald’s remained outside. Petrini is, of course, the founder of the International Slow Food Movement. Petrini first came to prominence in the 1980s for taking part in the campaign against the fast-food chain McDonald’s opening near the Spanish Steps in Rome.
Slow Food was founded in 1989, to counteract fast food and fast life, the disappearance of local food traditions, and people’s dwindling interest in the food they eat. Today, the Slow Food association is a vast network of 100,000 members from 150 countries. Here in London, Slow Food is a nonprofit educational organization dedicated to supporting and celebrating regional culinary identities while embracing the purity of the organic movement, survival of endangered animal breeds and heirloom varieties of fruit and vegetables, traditional artisanal products, and preventing the deterioration of the environment. The management and many of the vendors of the Farmers’ Market are proponents of Slow Food and other ethical food initiatives.

At the Farmers’ Market, the fairgoing public also had the opportunity to meet some of the multicultural chefs, such as Yam Gurung. Gurung has been cooking Nepali, western and international cuisine for more than 15 years. His specialty is his traditional Nepali fare. You can sample Gurung’s food Tuesday to Saturday at lunchtime in the Market. Another popular market vendor is Mary-Ann Wrona of the Café Bourgeois, who wowed the crowds with her hand-made perogies and lively repartee. She greets the market crowds in nine different languages, promising their taste buds a high-speed ride on the bus to downtown flavourtown, and she delivers. From cabbage rolls to crepes, sauerkraut to stromboli, Mary-Ann s Café Bourgeois reflects her passion and European heritage.

Most of these food vendors have found the Market to be an ideal business incubator for their culinary skills and the ideal situation to test their ideas and hone their business acumen without committing the astronomical resources needed to open a restaurant or production facility.

In fact, Sarah Merritt, Manager of The Old East Village B.I.A, envisions a dynamic corridor of East London along Dundas Street that would be populated by specialty and multicultural foods and artisan goods in the not-too-distant future. Some of these businesses will be owned and operated by vendors who have graduated from the Western Fair Farmers’ Market.

During the fair, authentic ethnic cuisines (think Mediterranean, Dutch, Tibetan, Chinese, Mexican, Serbian, Pan-Latin, Lebanese, Portuguese, and Hungarian) all featured prominently, as well as other specialty food vendors and food stalls showcasing the multicultural diversity of our community.

The Western Fair gave the Farmers’ Market the opportunity to bring in some additional ethnic vendors, which helped attract more people to the Market building during the Fair. There seemed to be a much higher critical mass of quality food vendors in the Farmers' Market compared to the other buildings during the fair. Other comments overheard reflected a favourable reaction to the participation of authentic ethnic food vendors, which brought back to mind past years at the Fair when the International Food and Travel building presented more unique offerings to an adventurous group of diners who had little interest in the fast-food offerings.
And for those foodies and gourmets who also enjoy food on a cerebral level, upstairs on the cooking stage, there were seminars, samplings and culinary demonstrations by well-known London chefs, such as Chef Tim D'Sousa from the Idelwyld Inn, Kristian Krossen from Braise Food and Wine, Dani Gruden from Il Tenore, Derek Kulyk from Aroma Restaurant, Chef Scott Carrothers from Savvy Chef, and Chef Danijel Markovic from London’s newest hot-spot, the Serbian-inspired Kantina Cafe, to name but a few.
Also upstairs on the second floor, the eatdrink / London-Middlesex Culinary Tourism Initiative hospitality booth supported the local culinary and agricultural community, our vibrant local restaurant scene, and many local ethical food movements including our local Slow Food Convivium.

The second floor also houses the Fire Roasted Coffee Roastery, which offers specialty, hand-roasted artisan coffees, with more than 50 types of beans available. (Owner Dave Cook, who incubated his business at the market, recently landed a million-dollar deal to supply Loblaw supermarkets with coffee, only five years after starting up his company.)

If we want to continue to be part of a community that creates unique experiences that fulfill our evolving entertainment, recreational and educational interests, it is important to support not only the Western Fair Farmers’ Market, but also other unique programming at the Western Fair Entertainment Centre. See you at the Food and Wine Show in January.

Link to Taste - London, Ontario's Culinary Guide

2010-08-20T13:00:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Link to Taste - London, Ontario's Culinary Guide

http://www.myvirtualpaper.com/doc/eatdrinkmagazine/tastelondon/2010062501/

R Grow Farms Watermelon Salsa

2010-08-20T10:44:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

R-Grow Farms

Masonville Farmers' Market
Fridays 8 - 2 p.m.

St. Thomas, Horton Farmers' Market
Saturdays 8 - 2 p.m.

R-Grow Farms, located in Elgin county is a family operated fruit and vegetable business, owned by Leo & Monika Rastapkevius.

Growing top quality produce has been our priority for over 20 years. All of our produce is hand harvested . Careful handling in the field, during packaging & delivery ensures that we maintain the products freshness and flavour.

Our production techniques are conventional but sensitive to environmental concerns. We are participants of the Environmental Farm Plan and we use Integrated Pest Management Techniques (IPM) to apply pesticides only when thresehold limits have been exceeded. Our crops are also grown using alternative practices such as ground covers, row covers as well as mechanical and mannual cultivators.

At R-Grow Farms we are very enthusiastic about the "buy local, eat fresh" movement and encourage our consumers to buy the products that are "grown close to home".

Tast the difference, enjoy the quality!

Producer of:
Sweet Corn, Muskmelons, Watermelons, sweet potatoes, ornamental pumpkins & gourds

Watermelon Salsa

Servings 12

4 cups watermelon, seedless, chopped into small pieces
1 cup cucumbers, seedles, chopped into small pieces
1/2cup scallions, chopped into small pieces (green and white parts)
1/2 cup large yellow peppers, seedless chopped into small pieces
1 large jalapeno pepper, finely minced (do not touch seeds with bare hands)
1 1/2 tbsp. fresh cilantro, minced
1 1/2 tbsp. fresh mint leaves, minced
1 tsp. sugar
1 tbsp. olive oil
1 tbsp. fresh lime juice

Toss all ingredients together in a large bowl. Serve at room temperature or chilled. Yields about 1/2 per serving.

Note:
If you plan to make this recipe ahead of time, chop up and toss together the watermelon, vegetables and herbs, combine with sugar, olive oil and lime juice just before serving.

Monika & Leo Rastapkevicius
9808 Dunborough Road, West Lorne, ON N0L 2P0
519-768-1590

A Stellar Taste of Serbia

2010-08-18T13:59:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

A Stellar Taste of Serbia
Kantina Cafe

There is new game in town, a contemporary, upscale Serbian hot spot serving great food. This new arrival on the restaurant scene is stylish, streamlined and urban chic. The concept was designed and is operated by Miljan Karac and his wife Bojana. In the premises formerly occupied by Libido, the newly renovated space has a clean, modern style and features a fresh and contemporary take on international and traditional Serbian cuisine. The restaurant's logo and signage communicate not only the owners' personality and originality but their unique sense of style. The room itself is both striking and attractive with brown leather lounge seating transitioning into spacious wood block tables, white leather banquette seating and simple but stylishly comfortable chairs. On one wall a series of identical gold framed mirrors reflect the reclaimed heritage yellow brick wall it faces. For those looking for a cocktail or a cafe au lait there is a small bar at the back of the room with seating for six. The kitchen is on the small side but Karac has plans to enlarge it. Lively, modern Serbian and Balkan Gypsy music plays in the background.

Restaurant insiders agree, and several prominent local chefs have commented to me, "Chef Danijel Markovic is not only talented but that he is cooking some of the most delicious food in the city." Kantina is among the top 6 restaurants, currently for a truly superb and innovative culinary experience. A hop, skip and a jump from the John Labatt Centre and around the corner from King Street's hip restaurant row, Katina has a very bright future but so far it has remained relatively unnoticed by the local dining set. I predict that this about to change.

Serbs have a large diaspora. The number of Serbs in the diaspora is unknown but it is estimated to be up to 5.5 million. In recent times, the Serbian diaspora has helped popularize Serbian cuisine across the world. In London, Ontario, it is thought that there is a population of approximately 3,500 Serbians living in the city.

Serbian cuisine is interesting and continues to evolve from the Slavonic traditions moulded by the tumultuous changes and influences it has experienced over the years. Chef Markovic who is new to both London, Ontario, and the English language comes out of Kantina's kitchen to speak personally to the restaurant's patrons. Markovic is able to communicate his artistry, a passion for food and his mastery of ingredients before the food ever arrives at the table. Arrive it does, on beautiful dinnerware that complements his creations. Chef tells me, that the visual attractiveness of each dish is important and he certainly strikes a fine balance between colour, texture and proportion. Markovic likes a challenge and on several visits to the restaurant he has offered a "trust me" menu featuring some very interesting, delicious and unusual flavour combinations. There is an innate originality to his cooking style.

Chef Markovic who is a mere 22 years old was born in Croatia.. In his early youth he was interested in cooking and working with his mother in the kitchen. Food preparation is a strong part of the Balkan family heritage. Many of the foods that we might typically buy in the grocery store are often painstakingly handmade at home. In Serbia and Croatia, unlike other European countries, food is usually homemade, prepared by families for their members only. The reasons for this ranges from a personal expression of the culture to the preservation of secret family traditions. Out of a sense of necessity and economics many ingredients and recipes have become cultural items.

After graduating from a culinary high school in Belgrade, Serbia, Markovic entered a hotel/culinary college where gastronomy was his main focus. He studied and worked at the same time. After graduating from college he was hired at the Hyatt Regency (5 star) hotel in Belgrade as a line cook. His natural talent and abilities quickly propelled him into the position of line chef. This advancement allowed Markovic the opportunity to be mentored by many international chefs (Italian, Australian, German, Indian and Sri Lankan). The hotel's dining room menus featured modern interpretations from China, Japan, Malaysia and Vietnam, bringing an eclectic approach to classic dishes from each country's cuisine. You can see these influences from time to time in Markovic's cooking.

Karac, tells me, "Serbian cuisine has many culinary cultural influences, the Byzantine Empire/Greek, Turkish and Austro-Hungarian cuisines." This certainly make sense as Serbia borders Hungary to the north, Bulgaria and Romania to the east; Macedonia to the south; and Croatia , Bosnia , Herzegovina and Montenegro to the west. Serbia's capital city, Belgrade, is among the most populous in South-eastern Europe

Serbian cuisine is characterized by such idiosyncratic ingredients as: kajmak - clotted cream; ajavar a traditional red bell peppers, eggplant, garlic and chilli pepper relish; sir, a generic term for a variety of semi-hard porcelain- white cheeses made from sheep's milk and kept in brine (feta-style) and two very distinct types of yoghurt. One from cow's milk and a more luxurious one made from sheep's milk.

Chef's veal soup with finely diced root vegetables, sour cream and white turniup is truly a revelation and a testament to the Chef's tremendous talent and his ability to layer many flavours with great effect.. An upscale/rustic cream of potato and leek soup with toasted almonds, crunch bacon, tiny shrimp and truffle oil is out of this world.

One of the chef's signature specialities is Karadjordjeva, (Black George Schnitzel) a delicious rolled fried pork schnitzel with kajmak stuffing. Chef also does a delicious hamburger and fantastic sandwiches but prefers more challenging fare. There is also perfectly cooked stuffed calamari accompanied by black (squid ink) risotto

On one occassion a chilled, luxurious strawberry puree with balsamico that has both sweet and sour elements arrives after dinner for dessert. On another occasion, smooth fudgy pot au creme, topped with mousse is flavoured with cloves and star anise and accompanied by a whimsical jam pot of strawberry puree and a chocolate tuille.

The menu changes seasonally, prices are affordable and the wine list is modest. Kantina also serves a delicious breakfast on Saturday and Sunday mornings.

349 Talbot Street
519.672.5862 · eat@kantina.ca
Facebook
www.kantina.ca

Tue - Thu: 10am - 10pm
Fri: 10am - close

Sat: 9am - close
Sunday: 9am - 6pm

Western Fair Farmers’and Artisans' Market

2010-08-04T16:43:00.000-07:00

Western Fair Farmers’and Artisans' Market

The Heart of Old East Village

Dave Cook, owner of the Fire Roasted Coffee Company and Market Manager of London’s Farmers Market, continues the weekly tradition of “Saturday Market Days.” Located in the heart of Old East Village, at the historic Confederation building on the Western Fairgrounds, the Western Fair Farmers and Artisans Market has established itself as a neighbourhood social centre and community tradition.

With an area of 52,000 square feet, the red brick Confederation building began as a place for local merchants to sell a diversity of wares, and then replaced the Western Fair’s Crystal Palace when it was destroyed by fire in January 1927. Today, products include the finest in local, organic and heirloom produce, 19 varieties of apples, an array of locally produced domestic cheeses (How does some fresh goat’s milk Gouda strike you? Or some 7-year-old local cheddar?), as well as international cheese selections, specialty meats, fresh-cut flowers, dry goods, staples and gourmet products. Locally raised products from four butchers (drug-free beef, pork, and lamb), fresh rabbit, and a variety of delicatessen and charcuterie, poultry (chicken, duck, turkey) farm-fresh free-run eggs, and other quality dairy products are also available.

Market-goers enjoy a variety of traditional culinary favourites, including local delicacies such as homemade regional sausages, apple fritters, fresh hand-pressed cider, and pure Ontario maple products. Among the vendors is Onthemove Organics purveyor, Jeff Pastorius, who sells certified organic vegetables and herbs all year round. In addition to premium, delicious and nutritious veggies, he sells other local, natural and organic products and products that have not been genetically modified. Pastorious has recently opened a production operation called "Movement" on the 2nd floor. Another vendor is Rose White, a local farmer/food activist, who runs the City Farming Project and sells organic heirloom vegetables.

The Western Fair Farmers’ Market is a popular destination for local chefs in search of a wide variety of products and ingredients from the local terroir and as far away as Leamington. Authentic ethnic cuisines (think East Indian, Tibetan, Mexican, Polish, Dutch and Hungarian) are featured prominently, as well as other specialty food vendors and food stalls showcasing the multi-cultural diversity of our community. Yam Gurung, for example, has been cooking Nepali, Western and other international cuisine for over 15 years and serves delicious curries with rice, as well as his specialty, a traditional Nepali dumpling known as Momos, at his food boutique at the market. And Luis Riva is a long-time market vendor committed to providing the authentic flavours of both Mexican and El Salvadorian cuisines. Riva also opened True Taco, the restaurant in Old East Village, after perfecting his business model and building a loyal clientele at the market.

The market has an unsurpassed variety of fresh baking from four individual bakers, which includes an assortment of artisanal breads, local berry and fresh fruit pies, strudels, cakes, and many other delicious baked items. There is also a variety of gluten-free, lactose-free and reduced-sugar and -salt baked goods. Speaking of baking, Spicer’s Bakery has been a southwestern Ontario institution since 1950, and is known for their made-from-scratch, fresh yeast-raised doughnuts and a wide variety of cookies, squares and seasonal pies. Many of the culinary artisans and purveyors purchase ingredients from our producers and farms to create their products. Pastry Chef Theo Korthof, for example, uses Arva Flour not only for his handcrafted breads, but also for his delicious classic patisserie and savouries. Korthof and his charming wife, Gerda, own and operate Flair Bakery at the market, quickly cementing their reputation for excellence by handcrafting and baking artisanal breads on site.

The Western Fair Market is a multi-functional space and has been an ideal business incubator for culinary entrepreneurs. Check out the stall of Scott Carrothers, founder of Savvy Chef, who is a red seal chef with fifteen years in the foodservice industry. He is creating a hand-crafted line of specialty vinaigrettes and artisan mustards, using local mustard seeds and cold-pressed olive oils. He also sells fresh chantrelles, morels and truffles in season.

Upstairs in the Market is the Fire Roasted Coffee Cafe/Roastery, presided over by lead roaster/chef Patrick Dunham. Recognized as one of Canada’s finest specialty hand-roasted artisan coffees, this is where serious coffee drinkers can experience expertly roasted single-varietal coffees. It is here on site that they do their roasting and tastings. The roastery is open Monday to Friday (9–5) for retail and wholesale purchases, and of course market hours on Saturdays. Fire Roasted Coffee roasts over 50 types of beans, including 20 single-origins, decafs and blends. 95% of the coffee selection is Fair Trade Certified, and many more are Organic Certified and shade-grown as well.

The second floor also features a couple of talented local artists, as well as craftspeople, a dedicated-tailor, ephemera, vintage books, antiques and collectibles. Check the upstairs also for hand-crafted products, gift ideas, horticultural-themed garden and cottage decor, clothing, and other craftspeople and artisans.

900 King Street, at Ontario and Dundas Streets
Hours:
Saturday 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Western Fair Farmers' Market and Vendor/Exhibitor Recruitment for the Western Fair

2010-08-04T16:13:00.000-07:00

Western Fair Farmers' Market

Western Fair Vendor/Exhibitor Recruitment

For ten days in September, the annual Western Fair takes centre stage in London, Ontario. Consistently recognized as one of Ontario ’s top 100 events, the Western Fair is a premier family attraction in Southwestern Ontario .

The Western Fair Farmers Market would like to invite you to take part as a vendor/exhibitor during the upcoming Western Fair. The goals of the event are to help promote our local food culture, agriculture and other culinary initiatives. The Western Fair Farmers' Market is looking for gourmet food vendors, independent sellers, epicurean and kitchenware products, exotic, on -trend and seasonal culinary ingredients.

This year, over 200,000 visitors are expected to pass through the gates to experience the sights, sounds and scents of this annual community event.

For many of our fairgoers, shopping is part of the Fair experience. In fact, consumer surveys show 78% of Fair patrons are sure to visit vendors located in the commercial buildings. Take advantage of this outstanding opportunity to market your product or service.

More than 52,000 square feet of exhibit space is dedicated to the spirit of commerce, making Western Fair Market an ideal venue to showcase a myriad of consumer goods and services.
And it works. Scores of vendors return to the Western Fair every year to capitalize on a proven, cost effective way to reach thousands of customers.

The Western Fair Farmers Market would like to invite you to take part as a vendor/exhibitor during the upcoming Western Fair. The goals of the event are to help promote local food, agriculture and other culinary initiatives.

Western Fair Farmers’ Market operating hours during the Western Fair
Mon-Wed. 3pm-9pm ,
Thurs., Fri.& Sun. 11am-9pm ,
Saturdays 8am-9pm ,

The Western Fair Farmers' Market serves as an active incubator for new businesses, and welcomes entrepreneurs and new small businesses to sell their products. Of particular interest are food vendors/artisans, growers, farmers, artists and craftspeople.

The Western Fair Farmers’ Market serves as an anchor for community life by providing a setting for cultural and civic activities that complement the Market and its location in London's Old East Village. Many of these activities are family and community oriented and supported. Such activities have a positive and direct impact on the economic development on the Old East Village merchants and neighbourhoods, as well as for the city of London, Ontario as a whole.

The Western Fair London Farmers market is designed to create an interactive experience for visitors that will be a destination for locals, tourists, and regional visitors. Our hope is farmers and other vendors who are able to bring a quality product and sell it effectively will find the market profitable.

The Western Fair Farmer's Market is committed to creating a diverse marketplace with the highest quality, locally and regionally produced products available.

A STELLAR TASTE OF SERBIA

2010-08-03T05:52:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

A Stellar Taste of Serbia

Kantina Cafe

There is new game in town, a contemporary, upscale Serbian hot spot serving great food. This new arrival on the restaurant scene is stylish, streamlined and urban chic. The concept was designed and is operated by Miljan Karac and his wife Bojana. In the premises formerly occupied by Libido, the newly renovated space has a clean, modern style and features a fresh and contemporary take on international and traditional Serbian cuisine. The restaurant's logo and signage communicate not only the owners' personality and originality but their unique sense of style. The room itself is both striking and attractive with brown leather lounge seating transitioning into spacious wood block tables, white leather banquette seating and simple but stylishly comfortable chairs. On one wall a series of identical gold framed mirrors reflect the reclaimed heritage yellow brick wall it faces. For those looking for a cocktail or a cafe au lait there is a small bar at the back of the room with seating for six. The kitchen is on the small side but Karac has plans to enlarge it. Lively, modern Serbian and Balkan Gypsy music plays in the background.

Restaurant insiders agree, and several prominent local chefs have commented to me, "Chef Danijel Markovic is not only talented but that he is cooking some of the most delicious food in the city." Kantina is among the top 6 restaurants, currently for a truly superb and innovative culinary experience. A hop, skip and a jump from the John Labatt Centre and around the corner from King Street's hip restaurant row, Katina has a very bright future but so far it has remained relatively unnoticed by the local dining set. I predict that this about to change.

Serbs have a large diaspora. The number of Serbs in the diaspora is unknown but it is estimated to be up to 5.5 million. In recent times, the Serbian diaspora has helped popularize Serbian cuisine across the world. In London, Ontario, it is thought that there is a population of approximately 3,500 Serbians living in the city.

Serbian cuisine is interesting and continues to evolve from the Slavonic traditions moulded by the tumultuous changes and influences it has experienced over the years. Chef Markovic who is new to both London, Ontario, and the English language comes out of Kantina's kitchen to speak personally to the restaurant's patrons. Markovic is able to communicate his artistry, a passion for food and his mastery of ingredients before the food ever arrives at the table. Arrive it does, on beautiful dinnerware that complements his creations. Chef tells me, that the visual attractiveness of each dish is important and he certainly strikes a fine balance between colour, texture and proportion. Markovic likes a challenge and on several visits to the restaurant he has offered a "trust me" menu featuring some very interesting, delicious and unusual flavour combinations. There is an innate originality to his cooking style.

Chef Markovic who is a mere 22 years old was born in Croatia.. In his early youth he was interested in cooking and working with his mother in the kitchen. Food preparation is a strong part of the Balkan family heritage. Many of the foods that we might typically buy in the grocery store are often painstakingly handmade at home. In Serbia and Croatia, unlike other European countries, food is usually homemade, prepared by families for their members only. The reasons for this ranges from a personal expression of the culture to the preservation of secret family traditions. Out of a sense of necessity and economics many ingredients and recipes have become cultural items.

After graduating from a culinary high school in Belgrade, Serbia, Markovic entered a hotel/culinary college where gastronomy was his main focus. He studied and worked at the same time. After graduating from college he was hired at the Hyatt Regency (5 star) hotel in Belgrade as a line cook. His natural talent and abilities quickly propelled him into the position of line chef. This advancement allowed Markovic the opportunity to be mentored by many international chefs (Italian, Australian, German, Indian and Sri Lankan). The hotel's dining room menus featured modern interpretations from China, Japan, Malaysia and Vietnam, bringing an eclectic approach to classic dishes from each country's cuisine. You can see these influences from time to time in Markovic's cooking.

Karac, tells me, "Serbian cuisine has many culinary cultural influences, the Byzantine Empire/Greek, Turkish and Austro-Hungarian cuisines." This certainly make sense as Serbia borders Hungary to the north, Bulgaria and Romania to the east; Macedonia to the south; and Croatia , Bosnia , Herzegovina and Montenegro to the west. Serbia's capital city, Belgrade, is among the most populous in South-eastern Europe

Serbian cuisine is characterized by such idiosyncratic ingredients as: kajmak - clotted cream; ajavar a traditional red bell peppers, eggplant, garlic and chilli pepper relish; sir, a generic term for a variety of semi-hard porcelain- white cheeses made from sheep's milk and kept in brine (feta-style) and two very distinct types of yoghurt. One from cow's milk and a more luxurious one made from sheep's milk.

Chef's veal soup with finely diced root vegetables, sour cream and white turniup is truly a revelation and a testament to the Chef's tremendous talent and his ability to layer many flavours with great effect.. An upscale/rustic cream of potato and leek soup with toasted almonds, crunch bacon, tiny shrimp and truffle oil is out of this world.

One of the chef's signature specialities is Karadjordjeva, (Black George Schnitzel) a delicious rolled fried pork schnitzel with kajmak stuffing. Chef also does a delicious hamburger and fantastic sandwiches but prefers more challenging fare. There is also perfectly cooked stuffed calamari accompanied by black (squid ink) risotto

On one occassion a chilled, luxurious strawberry puree with balsamico that has both sweet and sour elements arrives after dinner for dessert. On another occasion, smooth fudgy pot au creme, topped with mousse is flavoured with cloves and star anise and accompanied by a whimsical jam pot of strawberry puree and a chocolate tuille.

The menu changes seasonally, prices are affordable and the wine list is modest. Kantina also serves a delicious breakfast on Saturday and Sunday mornings.

349 Talbot Street
519.672.5862 · eat@kantina.ca
Facebook
www.kantina.ca

Tue - Thu: 10am - 10pm
Fri: 10am - close

Sat: 9am - close
Sunday: 9am - 6pm

SAVOUR STRATFORD PERTH COUNTY CULINARY FESTIVAL

2010-07-22T19:37:00.000-07:00

Stratford Tourism Alliance

Stratford, Ontario, is not only a cultural haven for world-class theatre, but also for a world-class creative community, which includes actors, artists, playwrights, writers, musicians, and many uniquely talented professionals, all of whom contribute to the vitality of the community. Stratford has a long history of being a hotbed of culinary talent, including farmers, growers, chefs, culinary instructors and restaurateurs. Hospitality and the culinary arts are an important and integral part of Stratford’s creative and theatrical community.
Stratford is internationally known for the Stratford Shakespeare Festival, which runs from April to November. The festival’s primary mandate is to present repertory productions of William Shakespeare’s plays, but it also produces a diverse variety of theatre, from classic Greek tragedies to more contemporary works. The festival has contributed to the formation of a distinctively idiosyncratic dining culture and restaurant community.

Since the festival’s inception in 1953, Stratford has been a magnet for gifted theatrical luminaries — many of the greatest Canadian, British and American stage actors have played roles at Stratford. It is not unusual to see well-known celebrities walking Stratford’s streets or frequenting local haunts. In the mid-1980s, when I was working at the Church Restaurant, actress Maggie Smith (friend of former Artistic Director, Robin Phillips) was a constant late-night visitor to the Belfry. Often I would run into her on the street or in the line-up at Canada Trust. Twenty-five years later, Avon Theatre house manager Eldon Gammon remembers Justin Bieber, the “little guy with the big voice” playing his guitar and singing contemporary rock out front for the theatre crowd.
Stratford fortunately has a tremendous tourism visionary in Eugene Zakreski, who earlier this year added a downloadable guide to Stratford’s tourism website with pop sensation Justin Bieber’s history and local haunts. Zakreski, Executive Director of the Stratford Tourism Alliance, an early adopter of Culinary Tourism, is forward-thinking and recognizes and supports the uniqueness of Perth County’s terroir.

Zakreski and his colleagues, Cathy Rehberg, Danielle Brodhagen and Cathy Bieman, have successfully helped to reinforce Stratford and Perth County’s position as one of Canada’s unique and distinctive culinary destinations, by collaborating with the region’s farmers and chefs to reinforce a strong authentic food culture and promote culinary tourism in Stratford and Perth County.
In fact, the Stratford Tourism Alliance has been repeatedly invited to participate at local and regional culinary events and is presented as “best practice” by the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance. Savour Stratford Perth County is a partnership between Stratford and Perth County tourism and local economic development organizations.

The mandate of the Stratford Tourism Alliance is to act as a member and industry-driven private sector not-for-profit organization that manages, develops and publicizes “Destination Stratford” as a national and international tourism destination. Stratford and Perth County’s rich physical heritage, unique terroir, innovative cuisine, superior accommodations, interesting retail sector, and many unique events strengthen the local economy and enrich the quality of life in the City of Stratford and area.

Rumour has it that the Stratford Tourism Alliance will be recognized for its contribution to culinary tourism at the 2010 Culinary Thought Leadership World Summit in Halifax this September. “This summit is designed to foster leadership in the culinary tourism industry and to exchange ideas and feedback from around the world,” says conference emcee and president of the International Culinary Tourism Association (ICTA), Erik Wolf.

Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival

In 2008, with a limited programme and little promotion, the almost sold-out Savour Stratford Tasting event exceeded its modest expectations by almost 200%. A request for additional funding for $7,000 for logistics had been turned down by city council. Ironically and more significantly, key culinary policy makers and influencers, including high-profile Toronto chefs and the culinary media spread the news about the unqualified success, importance and quality of the tasting event as compared to similar events in Ontario.
In 2009, Zakreski initiated a three-year culinary tourism project development strategy, which has been wildly successful. The Stratford Perth County Culinary Tourism campaign is being implemented by Danielle Brodhagen (Programme Development, Stratford Tourism Alliance, and Savour Stratford Perth County), who was the original driving force behind the inaugural Savour Stratford Tasting event. Organizers anticipate as many as 10,000 visitors per day at this year’s event.
The Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival, now in its third year, presents nine days of food from September 18 to 26, beginning with the Garlic Festival on September 18, where you can dine out at any number of restaurants featuring
“Field to Chef” garlic-inspired menus. The Garlic Festival is followed by a week of culinary events, dinners and activities, culminating in the popular two-day festival September 25–26 along the banks of the Avon River. According to the Stratford Tourism Alliance, the third annual Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival promises to be bigger and better than ever with significantly enhanced programming.
The signature event of the popular festival is the Savour Stratford Tasting, which takes place on Sunday, September 26. The Savour Stratford Tasting pairs local chefs with Perth County producers to create delicious Perth County terroir-inspired samplings. VQA wines and local craft brews will accompany over 30 samples that are designed to delight gastronomes and foodies alike.
It is also possible to experience Perth County’s terroir at the Stratford Farmers’ Market every Saturday and Wednesdays in the Summer or the Slow Food Market at Monforte Dairy featuring everything from local eggs to elk, pork, sheep’s milk cheese and cider. The Stratford Farmers’ Market, established in 1855, is one of the longest continual links in Stratford’s culinary history.
For 2010, VIP tickets have been created for the much-sought-after Savour Stratford Tasting. This will provide an exclusive opportunity for early entry into the tasting tent and a unique chance to preview the highly anticipated culinary creations. VIP guests are invited to join the chefs and producers at noon on Sunday — before the event opens to general ticket holders at 1:00 p.m. — and will also receive a Savour Stratford gift tote, which includes a Tasting Plate handcrafted by local pottery artist, Chris Lass. Enjoy an afternoon of sipping and sampling in the heart of Stratford’s garden district.

　
Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival Itinerary
On Saturday, September 18, nine days of festivities will be launched with Stratford’s annual Garlic festival. The festival celebrating the “stinking rose” showcases the versatility of Ontario garlic. Elizabeth Baird, editor for Canadian Living magazine, leads an impressive list of speakers and cooking demonstrators, including cookbook author, Rose Murray. Activities take place from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at the Old Stratford Fairgrounds on Glastonbury Drive. Admission is $5 per person
On Sunday, September 19, visit selected farms throughout Perth County, which will be presenting a variety of products grown and raised on their farms. This Perth County Farm Tour encourages families to make the connection between what they eat and where it comes from. The bus tour includes a local Perth County picnic lunch. $25 for adults and $12 for kids (10 and under).
Sunday night City Centre Committee presents Movies in the Square – Screening of Ratatouille at the Stratford City Hall 7pm Free.
Monday, September 20 (and Wed. and Fri., all at 2 p.m.) — Edible Stratford Tour. Join your culinary connoisseur on a guided culinary walking tour of Stratford’s food shops, meet the local producers and sample delicious treats. Tours take place Monday, Wednesday and Friday of this week starting at 2:00 pm at the Stratford Tourism Office. Tickets are $15 per person.
Monday September 20, Gallery Stratford presents “Shake Your Martini” – Learn to make three martinis using fresh and local ingredients – Be sure to Dress to your Nines! Schmooze, Mingle and Sip!
Wednesday, September 22 8pm — “Feast of Comedy” featuring Marc Sinodinos of NBC Today’s Show and Larry Smith of Comedy Club at 54 Join us for an evening of laughs at the Savour Stratford comedy night at the Stratford City Hall. Limited Tickets.
Thursday, September 23, 8 p.m. — Pubs, Pilsner and Spirits Tour. Let us introduce you to our spirits! Inject a little spirit into a walking tour of Stratford’s heritage pubs. You’ll visit Stratford’s first brewery, then a variety of pubs in heritage buildings. There will be tastings at each stop. Cost: $25 per person which includes tastings at each stop.
Friday, September 24, 7 p.m. — Beerology 101 with Beer Expert, Mirella Amato. Learn about basic beer ingredients and how beer is made, while tasting through a series of contrasting and delicious local artisanal brews. The workshop is at the new University of Waterloo, Stratford campus, in downtown Stratford. $15 per person.
Friday, September 24, 7 p.m. — Docfest and Savour Stratford Present Tableland at Factory163. Craig Noble’s Tableland will be screened for the first time in Stratford; guests from the film will answer questions and promote discussion around local food. Cash bar available. Admission is free.
Friday, 9 p.m. — Launch Party. After a week of activity, we’re ready to party. Meet at Foster’s Inn for a fun evening preview to the two-day festival. Complimentary cocktail and hors d’oeuvres will be provided.
Saturday, September 25 — The Festival gets into full swing with a diverse roster of events featuring the best of Perth County. Events start at 9:00 a.m., so plan to arrive early to browse the Farmers and Artisans Market set along the banks of the Avon River. You will be entertained throughout the day at the York Street Carnival, the Kids’ Tent, a Pick Your Own Salad Bar, a Not-for-profit BBQ, and other interactive activities. Outdoor concerts run all afternoon, including performances by Canadian folk sweet heart, Dayna Manning and a never been seen before acoustic set by The Salads! Ontario Wine and Craft Beer Pavilion located across from the Main Stage will entertain the adults. Opportunities to learn more about cooking and food will take place at the Chefs School Learning Centre, featuring Locavore author, Sara Elton and author of City Farmer, Lorraine Johnson and Vegetarian Chef Denis Cotter of the award winning restaurant, Café Paridiso, Ireland. As evening approaches, you can book tickets for a traditional Flavours of Perth Pork Roast at 6:00 p.m., and later, the BBQ, Blues and Brews evening with a live Blues band.
Sunday, September 26 — The Savour Stratford Tasting, the centerpiece of the festive weekend, takes place from 1:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. Set under tents along the Avon River, you will enjoy the culinary garden party and dine on over 30 local delicacies crafted by over 30 acclaimed chefs. The local cuisine will be paired with Ontario VQA vintages and craft brews, and accompanied by French Canadian Artist, Amelie Chante and Les Singes Bleus. New for 2010 is a VIP Ticket providing early entry to interact with local chefs and producers and a take-away Savour Stratford gift bag, which includes a Tasting Plate handcrafted by local pottery artist, Chris Lass. Tickets are on sale now and can be purchased online, by phone or in person.

Locavore: From Farmers' Fields to Rooftop Gardens, How Canadians are Changing the Way We Eat

2010-07-18T19:41:00.000-07:00

Locavore: From Farmers’ Fields to Rooftop Gardens, How Canadians are Changing the Way We Eat

I am an ardent reader of Sarah Elton, food columnist for CBC Radio’s Here & Now, who writes regularly for the Globe and Mail, Maclean’s and the Atlantic’s Food Channel, and is also an informative blogger and tweeter. Her new book, Locavore: From Farmers’ Fields to Rooftop Gardens, How Canadians are Changing the Way We Eat, was officially launched at the Green Barns Market in Toronto at the end of March.
The New Oxford American Dictionary selected locavore, a person who seeks out locally produced food, as its word of the year in 2007. Since the term locavore entered the culinary lexicon, it seems to be on the tip of every culinary-minded person’s tongue. Originally, the term was coined in San Francisco by Jessica Prentice, for the 2005 World Environment Day, to describe consumers who choose locally produced foods over other high-carbon-footprint options.
As the emphasis on local food, sustainability and terroir continues to gain momentum across Canada, Elton’s book champions the movement away from global food production. Elton writes with a steady focus on Canadian farmers, producers, cheese makers, chefs, restaurateurs, farmers’ markets, and the regular “Janes and Joes” who are creating sustainable alternatives to agribusiness and the current global food system.
With the premise that food is the foundation of our culture, Elton allows the readers a behind-the-scenes journey into the local-food movement and an overview of Canadian terroir and the collective culinary sensibility of a nation. Elton travels the back roads from the Maritimes to Vancouver Island, making her the quintessential culinary agritourist, and allowing us a close-up analysis of a burgeoning new local-food order. Meticulous journalist, part culinary zeitgeist, and urban farmer, Elton resides in downtown Toronto with her husband and two daughters.
According to Elton, “Our farmers’ markets are not only hopping, we have more than 500 across Canada.” We also spend about $1 billion at them each year. Although the number of farmers has been on the decline for several decades, a more noble-minded younger generation is moving away from urban areas to the countryside to get back to the earth with sustainable and organic farming practises.
Imagine my surprise when I read that La Sauvagine, a soft cheese that won a raft of awards in 2008, and which I have touted in these pages, turns out not to be a handcrafted farmstead cheese and the very essence of Quebec’s terroir. Instead, Elton reveals that it is actually a mass-produced cheese made with cheap stand-in ingredients instead of fresh milk. The “artisan” featured on the packaging, Alexis du Pont, is nothing more than a counterfeit farmer. Elton also imparts that the unregulated term “artisan” is becoming increasingly trite and meaningless. Major corporations eagerly smack this warm and fuzzy marketing adjective on an increasingly long list of industrial products to deceive unsuspecting consumers.
Locally, Jo Sleger is a well-known farmer in Middlesex County, whose company supplies about 55,000 boxes of produce a year to upscale restaurants and grocers, mainly in Southern Ontario. Sleger specializes in organic greens, which he cultivates year-round in greenhouses, using soil plugs that are nourished by a hydroponic system. Sleger has been growing lettuce in his greenhouse since 1987, when he was only twenty-one. Elton takes her readers on a brief tour of Jo and Pauline Sleger’s organic operation. Elton poses the question, “So are greenhouses the missing piece in this puzzle? Are they the answer to getting us from October to May? Could greenhouses be a way to entice everybody — and I mean everybody, not just those committed to reducing their food miles at all cost — to buy local?” Interestingly, Locavore also tells us that nearby Essex County has the largest number of greenhouses in North America, with 87% dedicated to vegetable production.
In June, I had the opportunity to speak with Elton face-to-face at London’s Central Library. In person, Elton comes across as being neither an elitist nor a purist — her approach is even-handed and pragmatic. But she also tells her audience that she has had to rigorously defend her views and her opinions on locavorism since her book tour began. Speaking to an audience of about 100 people, many farmers and members of our local food community concerned about the global food chain, Elton revealed that an innocuous-looking cookie with a mile-long list of ingredients was the catalyst that instigated a profound change in her relationship to food. This is the same engaging story, told at the beginning of Locavore, that lead Elton on her local-food journey across Canada.
One of the many lively discussions at the Central Library centred on the decline of small rural abattoirs. Historically, there were hundreds of small abattoirs in Ontario, but due to stringent government food and safety regulations, these small abattoirs, which service the local and sustainable meat market, are being forced out of business. The abattoir operators are unable to keep up with the red tape and paper work, nor can they afford the upgrades and renovations the government now requires of their facilities. The problem is that if they go out of business, there won’t be sanctioned facilities for local farmers to have their meats slaughtered. This means that the consumer would be forced to buy exclusively from the factory farmers. The National Farmers’ Union has organized a campaign to save the abattoirs; and local farmer and Executive Secretary for the N.F.U. in Ontario, Karen Eatwell passed out postcards to the audience with a letter of protest.
Fortunately, the trend to buying and eating local is showing no signs of declining. Instead, the fruits of our local terroir are quickly becoming a patriotic trademark of Canada’s best tables. Elton offers a good case for the premise that a strong greenhouse industry might be the answer to building a sustainable food shed in Ontario. So, if you read one book this summer, do yourself a favour and read the immensely enlightening Locavore.

Bryan Lavery is a respected local chef and writer, proponent of London’s culinary tourism initiative, culinary consultant, and instructor. Lavery recently authored Taste, London’s Culinary Guide; and as eatdrink’s Contributing Editor and Food Writer at Large, Lavery shares his expertise and opinions on a wide variety of subjects.

T.G.’s Addis Ababa

2010-07-18T19:38:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

T.G.’s Addis Ababa

Out of Ethiopia

It’s an inconspicuous restaurant on Dundas Street between Burwell and Maitland, and directly across from London’s popular Latino Market. Inside, forget the fading travel posters that line the walls. Just close your eyes and savour the exquisite aromas emanating from the nearby tables and the kitchen.
For the last seven years, T.G.’s Addis Ababa has offered an authentic cook’s tour of Ethiopia. As in much of Africa, hospitality is important in Ethiopia, and at T.G.’s Addis Ababa it is paramount. T.G. and her extended family look forward to “spending some precious moments with you.” Regulars, restaurant insiders, and the vegetarian crowd are known to flock to this off-the-beaten-track restaurant, for reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed Ethiopian cuisine in a homey and hospitable environment. And Ethiopian expats and many local taxicab drivers who know more than a thing or two about great Ethiopian cooking are often on hand. Often, T.G., the gracious owner, is both chef and server herself. T.G.’s husband Sam speaks proudly of the restaurant and his wife’s many accomplishments.
Ethiopia is an ancient, landlocked country in East Africa, with a history that stretches back millennia. Addis Ababa (meaning “new flower” in Amharic) is the largest city in Ethiopia, with a population about the size of Metropolitan Toronto. Comprising an area of tremendous geographical diversity where 70 languages are spoken, Ethiopia represents a very diverse population, and its food culture varies regionally. However, there are a few culinary staples that remain hallmarks of the cuisine, such as berbere and injera.
Berbere (pronounced bari baray) is a brick-red mixture of spices which include chile peppers, ginger, cloves, coriander, allspice, rue berries and ajwain. This spice mixture is a central ingredient in the cuisines of both Ethiopia and Eritrea and adds a succulent heat and piquant kick to many dishes. Many years ago, my introduction to berbere by local Eritrean cook, Ghenet Abahara, gave me my first inkling of the essential role and subtle complexity played by spicing in East African cuisine. Ethiopian cuisine is thought to be greatly influenced by the Indian masalas, with their combinations of dried (and usually dry-roasted) hot spices, or pastes made from ground spice mixtures and other ingredients — often onion, garlic and ginger.
Another hallmark of East African cuisine is injera, the flatbread that is central to both Ethiopian and Eritrean cuisine. Spongy in texture and crèpe-like in appearance, injera has a sourdough taste to it. Traditionally made out of fermented tef, injera is used as both the serving platter and eating utensil. Protocol dictates tearing pieces of injera off with your right hand, wrapping it around the meat or stew, and then popping the injera into your mouth. No other utensils are used. Various entrees and side dishes are placed decoratively and served directly onto the injera, allowing it to absorb individual flavours and spices. Dishes are always accompanied by extra injera to scoop up the food with. Start the meal by tearing off a piece of injera then use it to scoop up some food.
Ethiopian meat dishes fall mostly into two distinct categories: red stews (wat), which include berbere, and green stews (alicha wat), which do not. Wats are properly prepared with a generous amount of chopped onions, which the cook simmers or sautés in a pot. Onions are fried without oil, which gives then a distinct taste central to Ethiopian cuisine. Once the onions have softened, the cook adds niter kebbeh, a clarified butter infused with ginger, garlic and other ground spices. T.G.’s menu includes several types of meat dishes, such as Quanta Fer-Fer, which is strips of marinated grilled beef, prepared with hot red pepper sauce and mixed with injera. Another Addis Ababa specialty is dulet kitfo, which consists of freshly minced, very lean beef, mixed and cooked with clarified butter, onion, jalapeño and the traditional spice mixture mitmita (an indigenous hot crushed orange-red or yellow pepper spice mixture that contains ground cardamom seed, cloves and salt).
T.G.’s menu is designed to eat à la carte or communally, and T.G. guides the uninitiated to select from a menu of elaborately spiced and very fresh vegetarian, chicken and beef dishes. Sharing a selection of delicious dishes that have been expertly arranged on a common platter for two, three, or more — the traditional way to eat a meal in Ethiopia — is a convivial introduction to the cuisine.
Ethiopian restaurants are a popular choice for vegetarians. Traditional Ethiopian cuisine employs no pork of any kind, as most Ethiopians are Ethiopian Orthodox Christians, Muslims or Jews. Orthodox Christian Ethiopians traditionally eat a strict vegetarian diet twice a week, so Ethiopian cuisine has developed a large variety of complex vegetarian dishes, with a large repertoire of deliciously spiced preparations and beautifully balanced flavours, based on lentils, split peas, chickpeas and other pulses. At T.G.’s Addis Ababa, defen misir, delicious green lentils traditionally seasoned and cooked with onion and possibly turmeric, has become one of the restaurant’s most popular vegetarian dishes.
Coffee originated in Ethiopia, and drinking traditional coffee at T.G.’s Addis Ababa is a ceremony in itself. T.G tells me, “Ethiopians hand-roast their coffee, often bringing out a pan of sizzling ripe green coffee beans so that their guests can first smell the aroma.” After roasting, the coffee is ground, then boiled in a clay pot. Often the hostess will sit on a stool in front of a low table and burn incense. The coffee pot is left to rest until the grinds settle to the bottom, then the coffee is poured into tiny cups and served with sugar. The hostess will make a second pot using the same grinds, and the process will be repeated. Often a third pot will be made.
T.G.’s dining room has recently been expanded, and there is a small bar near the kitchen door with additional seating. T.G. is also well-known as a local caterer of fine Ethiopian cuisine.

Hours:
Tuesday–Saturday: 11 a.m.–10 p.m.
Sunday: 2 p.m–9 p.m.
465 Dundas Street (at Maitland)
519.433.4222

London, Ontario's Culinary Community

2010-06-16T11:20:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

London's Culinary Community
London's culinary community offers a diverse and sophisticated selection of multi cultural dining and shopping experiences. There is a growing recognition of local and artisanal food services, and a number of well known farmers, producers, shopkeepers, market managers, accredited teachers, academics, lecturers, culinary retailers and writers who are working to advance the local food culture. In fact, we have formed a local Culinary Tourism Initiative, a collaborative association of culinary professionals, producers and farmers dedicated to developing and promoting London - Middlesex and our surrounding counties, as a recognized, year-round culinary destination, with authentic and diverse offerings of local products and experiences. Besides providing just plain old fashioned hospitality to our visitors and our neighbours we are working hard to promote the recognition of our culinary terroir as a manifestation of our local culture.

Downtown Dining District

Our downtown core has the highest concentration of sophisticated owner-operated and casual fine dining restaurants and some of the best gourmet and culinary retail in the country. The proximity of these restaurants and shops to major hotels, the Convention Centre, the John Labatt Centre, the Grand Theatre, the Arts Project, performance halls and most of London's outdoor festivals have contributed to a unique downtown dining culture.

Culinary Mapping

In terms of mapping the current food related experiences, in addition to the seasonal and food festivals, London also has a number of farmers markets: Covent Garden Market, Western Fair Farmers Market, Trails End, and seasonal farmers markets in Masonville, Byron and the near by St. Thomas' Horton Farmers' Market; as well as independent speciality and gourmet food retailers like Remark Fresh Market, Angelo's, Alicia's Fine Foods and Sunripe Marketplace.
We also have unique local farmers, community gardens, rooftop gardners, apiaries and other niche growers who are a burgeoning group dedicated to creating ethical local, sustainable food systems. A good example is farmer and local food and safety activist, Rose White and collaborator Dr. Kathy McCullys' eminently successful City Farming Project. The project began as a city farm growing healthy organic and heirloom produce for a buying collective of local families and businesses . An example of collaboration among local chefs is the Growing Chefs! program organized by its director Andrew Fleet, for London schoolchildren.London has various gastronomic and ethical culinary and oenophile associations, Green Drinks and a local Slow Food convivumn headed by Fanshawe College Culinary Arts Professor, Melanie Doerksen that has been operating since 2003.
Independent producers, retailers, chefs, restaurateurs, and some longtime culinary professionals have provided a fresh supply of local foods, artisan products and ingredients, and both innovative and traditional food preparation methods, giving us the opportunity to experience not only our unique local terroir and cultural heritage, but a mosaic of diverse ethnic cuisines.

Today, London is one of the hottest locales in Ontario for supporting local terroir. We have star chefs like Wade Fitzgerald at Garlics, Kristain Crossen at Braise, Josie Pontarelli at Abruzzi and Jason Schubert and Paul Harding at The Only on King, offering truly regional farm-to-table dining experiences. Uber chefs like David Lamers and Daniel Irvine at Tru, Tim D' Souza at the Idlewyld also showcase innovative cuisine featuring the best local and quality seasonal ingredients. All these talented and esteemed chefs are committed to supporting the local terroir.
London also has some very exciting bistro's -originally Parisian inspired incarnations -here mostly defined by the delicious food they serve but also their uniquely idiosyncratic personalities - like David Chapmans' " definitive and classic", Davids, Betty Heydons' " deliciously arty" Blackfriars, Colin Fosters' "hip,on-trend" Braywick and the simple, sophisticated and cosy Dragonfly (serving authentic Indonesian on Monday nights) all known for their uniqueness and commitment to quality as well as the calibre of their staff. Of course Paul Krohn's, casual, regional Italian-inspired Amici in the hotel district also falls into the bistro/trattoria category.

Joe and Diane Pritchard's Billy's Deli is a local institution, and a prime destination for breakfast and lunch for many reasons, their fresh seasonal pies with local ingredients is one reason. Try the latke breakfast, 3 latkes, served with black forest ham, bacon, Oktoberfest sausage or Montreal Smoked Meat, two eggs (any style) good toast, house made jams and apple sauce and sour cream.) Of course no mention of breakfast could be made without mentioning the Toddle Inn on Richmond Street or without paying homage to Pat Spigos' 40 years at the High Lunch.
The success of on-trend, upscale restaurants like the popular wine bar/bistro, The Tasting Room on Richmond Row or Cello on King Street and the evolution of the 'gastropub', like the stellar Church Key Bistro-Pub and the Morrisey House in the hotel district (although it considers itself a "local") have made a significant impact on diners eating and drinking choices.

one Restaurant and Lounge, initally opened in 1963, as The Grosvenor, a private member's club, devoted entirely to fine dining and a wide variety of associated culinary activities, today enjoys a reputation for it's contemporary cuisine, white-linen dining and for friendly, professional service. And speaking of culinary history and friendly professional service, Jack Di Carlo, maitre d' extraordinare is a London restaurant legend. Di Carlo along with Executive Chef Denis Clavette and staff have made Michael's on the Thames one of the most talked about dining rooms in London. The restaurant was awarded the "Spirit of Excellence Award" for two consecutive years for their outstanding attentive and professional demeanor. Not only does Michael’s specialize in old world continental cuisine but also in the classic European-style tradition of tableside cooking which at Michael's include: caesar salad, steak Diane, chateaubriand and classic flambéed desserts that include cherries jubilee, and Di Carlo's signature flaming after- dinner coffees.

Ethnic Diversity

The increase in choice reflects both a larger population diversity and the increased demand for ethnic variety driven by sophistication and today's young consumers who are constantly seeking bolder, more exotic and authentic tastes from a variety of cultures. On the dining scene, London’s diversity of ethnic populations have brought added ingredients and flavour to the area’s cuisine. As a result, it’s possible to dine on Cajun/Caribbean (Jambalaya) food one night; French ( Auberge du Petit Prince) Thai (Thaifoon), Chinese/Asian (Hong Ping), African (Addis Ababa), East Indian (The Raja, Masseys, Currys), Regional Italian (Abruzzo, Amici) Mexican (Under the Volcano, Si Senor, True Taco), Mediterranean - with a Portuguese flair- (Aroma), Japanese (Shiki), Hungarian (Budapest), Pan Latin (Il Tenore), Portuguese (Rei Dos Leitos, Imperio Dos Frangos), Serbian (Kantina) and Greek (Mykonos, Mythic Grill), Middle Eastern (The Tehran), Vietnamese ( Quynh Nhi, Ben Thanh). But this is just a partial list there are some 470 restaurants in London and counting.

Neighbourhoods

It is important to remember though, that it is is still easy to find plenty of exceptional restaurants in and around our 42 distinct neighbourhoods, that include a number of distinct dining districts: downtown, Richmond Row, Hamilton Road, the hotel district, Wortley Village and a variety of other clusters that include a diverse mosaic of ethnic restaurants and grocers throughout the city. London is a city where you can eat very well on a limited budget. You can also find some hidden gems in our residential suburbs and other areas of the city which until recently were considered culinary deserts. The Old East Village is a great example of a former culinary desert that has been re-invigorated in the last few years with a number of small restaurants and cafes. Steps from the Aeolin Hall, Owners Linda Wayne and Glen Kiff The charming East Village Coffeehouse is a particular stand out. And speaking of cafes, with great taste and a commitment to quality the Black Walnut Bakery Cafe in London's Wortley Village is another must for epicures.The baking is particularly top-notch. London is no stranger to great patisserie, we have a number of exceptionally talented pastry chefs, bakers and artisanal bread makers like Stephanie Bishop, Penelope Holt, Theo Korthoff and Michele Lenhardt, and of course, renowned International pastry Chef, Roland Hofner who teaches "pastry" at Fanshawe College for the Hospitality program.

Culinary Leaders

Hospitality and the culinary arts have always been an important and integral part of the local creative class. Here in London we have a long history of exceptional restaurants, talented chefs and gourmet retailers. Ann McColl Lindsay and, David Lindsay owned the legendary Ann McColls’s Kitchen Shop for 30 years until retiring.
Our community is always evolving, responding to current trends and changes, and adapting to the economy. We have some long time stand out culinary professionals working in and around our community who continue to advance our culinary culture. Let me drop just a few of their names: David Chapman, Chris Squire, Steve James, Hilary Moon, Jack Di Carlo, Rose White, Jacqui Shantz, Jamilee Hassan, Ron Benner, Wally Downham, Barbara Toomer, Betty Heydon, Joan Brennan, Alessandro Malnati, Glenda Smith, Maya Clarke, Mies Bervoets, Mike Smith, Teresa Thorpe, Kathy McLaughlin and Kathleen Underwood. That is just the short list naming a few who have made a significant impact on the local scene in one way or another. But there are many, many more who have been instrumental in keeping the local food scene vibrant and up-to-the-minute.

A great way to connect with the culinary possibilities that line the shelves of our culinary retailers and gourmet grocers is to simply come in with a cooking question. Our shopkeepers and their intelligent employees have a keen interest in the cooking arts, possess superior product knowledge, and can provide helpful suggestions and practical tips. Two of them (Jill's Table and Kiss the Cook) even offer cooking classes with some of the top chefs in the city. And speaking of cooking classes, lets not forget Felipe Gomes's, Aroma Mediterranean Restaurant that offers unique cooking experiences for both private and corporate groups that can be tailored to meet their needs.

Culinary Retail

So, If you are on King Street's restaurant row, looking for a selection of high quality olive oil, Javanese long pepper, black garlic, truffle oil, bakeware or cookbooks (thats the shortlist) look no farther than the incomparable Jill's Table. A decade ago Jill Wilcox opened a tiny gourmet store in Covent Garden Market. It was the first incarnation of Jill’s Table. A decade later at its current location at 115 King Street, Jill’s Table defines itself as a “Feast of Kitchen Essentials.” An award recipient of the prestigious CGTA Retailer of the Year. Jill’s Wilcox, like her predecessor, Ann McColl Lindsay, is an exceptional local resource - supportive, knowledgeable and a big part of educating and promoting the local culinary community. Hospitable customer service and exceptional product knowledge is the foundation of Jill's Tables' excellence.

A hop, skip and a jump from the Covent Garden Market is Kingsmill's Gourmet Kitchen Shop. In 1865, Thomas Frazer Kingsmill, opened the dry goods store at 130 Dundas St. The current art deco style building is a must see for out-of-towners, featuring original tin-plated ceilings and hardwood floors. Other unique heritage features of the store include an old style elevator complete with operator. Kingsmill's continues to be owned and operated by descendents of the founder. Enter the Gourmet Kitchen Shop through the arched entrances at either end of the main floor and you will find that Elaine Norris, (the shop's buyer) stocks the shelves with a an impressive selection of top quality products that include: high quality appliances, dinnerware, kitchen gadgets, bakeware, cookware, barware, and wine glasses. There's also a selection of gourmet sauces, condiments and teas.

Next walk up Richmond Row to Lawrence Burden's Kiss the Cook. Chef and local cooking legend Chris Squire, culinary teacher at Sir George Ross Secondary School, and former owner and chef, Auberge du Petit Prince is the resident chef. Kiss the Cook has an extensive range of gourmet products, cookbooks and kitchen wares which makes it a great culinary retail destination.
Of course not mention of culinary retail would be complete without paying homage to Restaurant Equipment and Supply that is open to the public and has been serving the chefs, restaurateuers, home cooks and the hospitality industry since 1944. Open Monday to Friday 8 to 5

In recent years, with a dedicated commitment to our terroir as a manifestation of our local culture and the recognition of our unique and delicious products, when combined with the latest up-to-the-minute culinary and beverage experiences to increasingly sophisticated customers our already vibrant culinary community has found itself on a renewed trajectory of local culinary patriotisim.

My Mother's Rhubarb Pie with NO Fuss/ NO Fail Pastry

2010-06-08T16:24:00.000-07:00

My Mother's Rhubarb Pie with No Fuss/ No Fail Pastry

I have tried and discarded many a recipe for rhubarb pie. Some were too sour, some had a wet or a soggy bottom crust, or some other misfortune that I no longer remember. This recipe below, however is the best I have eaten, bar none. Along with the Crisco pastry recipe, how can anyone go wrong?

No fuss/no fail pastry.

2 cups good quality all purpose flour.

1 tsp. salt

1 cup Crisco shortening (at room temp.)

2 tblsps. cold water

1 tblsp. white vinegar

1 large egg.

Mix the salt into the flour, cut in the Crisco until about the size of peas. Crack the egg in a seperate bowl and beat until just mixed, add the water and vinegar, stir to blend. Make a well in the flour-shortening mixture and pour in the egg mix. Stir with a fork until blended. Remove from bowl and be sure all the flour is incorporated. Store in fridge for about 5-10 min.

I use a 10" deep dish pyrex pie plate for my pie but, a regular 12" pie plate should do as well.

RHUBARB FILLING Preheat oven to 375 degrees

Wash & dry 2-1/2 lbs rhubarb and place in large bowl

In another bowl mix together 1-1/4 cups granulated sugar, 1/2 cup all purpose flour, 1 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg and the zest from 1 med. size orange. Juice the orange onto the rhubarb and mix well.

Depending on your taste and the rhubarb variety you may want to add more or less sugar.

Stir the flour mixture into the rhubarb and coat as evenly as possible.

Roll out the pastry and line the bottom of the selected pie plate. Pour in the rhubarb mixture.

Roll out the top crust and cover. Leave some overhang on the pastry so it can be turned up and crimped as desired( this keeps the pastry from shrinking too much.) Make 3 - 4 slashes on top crust to let steam escape. With a pastry brush wash the top of the crust with cream or milk, whichever you have on hand and sprinkle lightly with granulated sugar. Bake for about 50 - 55 minutes until the filling is bubbly. Serve cold.

This pie also freezes well, if you can keep the family away from it, which in our house is a job. I cut the pie into serving size pieces, wrap well and store in the freezer. Properly stored it should last a while. Enjoy!

Braise Food and Wine - A Seminal, Seasonal and from Scratch, Farm-to-Table Dining Experience

2010-06-08T16:14:00.000-07:00

Braise Food and Wine - A Seminal, Seasonal and from Scratch, Farm-to-Table Dining Experience

Braise Food and Wine has a particular glamour with its chic, ultra-sophisticated decor combined with deliciously intelligent and artful cuisine. Executive chef Kristian Crossen (formerly at Langdon Hall, recently voted a #77 ranking for the S. Pellergrino World's 100 Best Restaurants,) crafts a seminal, seasonal and from scratch, farm-to-table dining experience that is among the top tier in the province.

Braise which opened in late December 2009, in the revitalized interior of a former downtown warehouse and adjacent to the new swanky boutique hotel project, Metro, in downtown London, has discreet access off both Covent Market Lane and Dundas Street.

Braise maybe positioned at the top end of the dining scene but don't let that detour you. Step inside, and you will see that the menus appeal to both discriminating grazers (culinary hipsters) and serious foodies, and diners (read gastronomes). Minutes from the John Labatt Centre, Braise is also a preferred hot-spot for smart late-night drinks and appetizers or a nice glass of wine at the bar and a simple plate of sustainable fish and chips (in this case, beer battered wild lake bass, creamy coleslaw, french fries and lemon aioli, $15) .

You can relax, this is not a "special occasion only” restaurant, and Owner Rob Taylor has gone to great pains not to be pigeon-holed by callow observers. The kitchen offers a brasserie-style menu that is both accessible and affordable. You will not find staff members putting on airs - just because the food is garnering raves or that the restaurant is just a bit more luxe, the service a bit more welcoming, and the atmosphere a bit more professional than most.

The eco-friendly restaurant design incorporates organic materials mixed with contemporary surfaces for a crisp eclectic urban sensibility. Restaurant tabletops are Douglas fir that Rob's father-in-law, Glen Brockington reclaimed through renovations to the hotel’s atrium. A solid-walnut-topped bar top is one of the focal points in the 126-seat room, which includes a 30-seat bar and comfortable lounge. Brockington also crafted the cabinetry and the stunning floor-to-ceiling wine cellar from repurposed wooden beams and tempered glass.

Wine is a large part of the restaurants credo and prestige. The sommelier, Jonny Kirwin, selects wines that focus on regional specific styles and small lot vineyards, at times featuring many of Canada's best wineries. Kirwin offers a constantly updated list offering four house wines and sixteen premium wines by the glass, at a variety of price points, as well as a full list of upscale international bottles.

Taylor also focuses on the corporate and private dining sector of the business. Three separate areas have the ability to transform into private dining rooms that are able to accommodate parties of 10 to 36 guests. The restaurant is also able to seat from 44 to 65 people in the banquet facility of Metro’s indoor courtyard, which features a stunning 35-foot-high sky-lit atrium.

Taylor and Crossen share an ethical and sustainable culinary philosophy, thoughtfully caring about the provenance of their food and how it was grown or raised. They are patriotic proponents of the local terroir and quality ingredients. Suppliers are given star billing with a detailed listing on the back of the dinner menu. No one will be sneaking Costco Talapia on the menu here.

In addition to the regular menus there are two tasting menus, one which is vegetarian, both are offered with or without wine pairings. This allows Crossen and his culinary brigade to showcase a selection of in-house specialties, signature flavours and taste experiences that change to take advantage of the seasons. The menus are not only cultural journeys into the local terroir but much, much more.

One evening, the Creamed Jerusalem Artichoke Soup juxtaposed flavours perfectly with spiced wine poached egg, black pepper oil and chantrelle mousseline. The bread is heavenly and the butter house made. White bean soup is a delicious silky concoction of legumes with an electric-looking parsley jus. "Please, sir, can I have some more?"

The house charcuterie (yes, this is the new tapas) is a delicious rustic appetizer with vanilla bean scented vegetables, (at the Taste for Life launch, Janice Zolf, asked for this recipe before I could) Yorkshire pork terrine, lusciously smooth buttery pate and house cured chorizo that dissolves into a rich pleasantly piquant taste on the tongue. At lunch, the tenderest morsels of flavourful beef brisket melt in-your-mouth.

On two occasions, perfectly chilled Canadian Malpeque Oysters on the half shell had the clarity and purity of flavour that make them a connoisseur's best friend. Roast Duck Breast, sweet spices and honey, heirloom beets, creamed black walnut, toasted amaranth, currants and duck jus make a perfect dinner. On another occasion, our waiter suggests the lean bison strip loin, served with wild mushroom crust, spiced squash puree, quinoa, roasted baby onions, trumpet mushrooms, port jus and bitter chocolate.

One afternoon, pastry chef, Rob Howland proffers a platter of four house-made doughnuts which were comprised of old fashioned plum, chocolate glazed, buttermilk, apple fritter and served with a trio of dipping sauces. Each sauce richer and more sinful than the other. Another late-night occasion, we order the brown butter roasted pear, dulce de leche mousse and truffle caramel ice cream.

Braise Food and Wine is the platinum standard for gracious dining in London. Taylor and Crossen are faithful proponents of local provenance and quality ingredients from producers, foragers, growers and artisans primarily from Middlesex, Perth and Elgin counties. Crossen and Taylor embody the tenets of ethical sourcing from the local terroir and provide an outstanding gastronomic farm-to-table dining experience or a simple . gourmet grilled chicken sandwich and a glass of wine. You are treated very well at Braise, and it isn't rocket science, that this is one of the chief reasons we go out to dine.

125 Dundas Street: London, Ontario: N6A 1E8: Phone: 519-433-1414
Website: http://www.braise.ca

Wild Leek and Jerusalem Artichoke Soup

2010-06-08T07:28:00.000-07:00

Jerusalem Artichoke ( Sun choke)

This vegetable is not truly an artichoke but a variety of sunflower (Compositae), a hairy, tuber-bearing perennial native of North America.
Similar in appearance to the sunflower it lacks the brownish centre of those sunflowers that produce edible seeds.They were cultivated by the First Nations of North America as a raw or cooked vegetable.Their recorded history dates back to Champlain in 1603. Contrary to what the name implies, this vegetable has nothing also to do with Jerusalem.

Wild Leek and Jerusalem Artichoke Soup

2 quarts good vegetable stock
4 cups peeled and coarsley chopped Jerusalem artichokes
3 cups of wild leeks, chopped
3 taplespoons chives finely chopped
1 cup of 35% cream
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1/2 teaspoon fresh ground pepper

Rhubarb Fool

2010-06-08T07:25:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Rhubarb Fool

4 cups 4 1/2 inch pieces of chopped rhubarb ( no thicker than your thumb)
3/4 cup sugar
1 tsp good quality vanilla
500 ml whipping cream
Mature rhubarb requires a greater amount of sugar than suggested.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Let stand at room temperature until rhubarb exudes some juice, about 15 minutes. MIx rhubarb and sugar in baking dish. Cover with foil and bake until fruit is soft. Drain in a seive and pour the juice into a saucepan. Reserve pulp. Heat juice until reduced by about half. Let cool. Puree the fruit until smooth then let the juice and the puree cool to room temperature.
Whip the cream until thick. Carefully fold in rhubarb puree then some of the juice. Put the fool in a glass bowl or individual serving bowls or glasses.

Fiddleheads

2010-06-01T10:45:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Ontario Fiddlehead Soup

4 cups fiddleheads -- fresh and cleaned
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 small onion -- minced
2 cups vegetable stock
2 cups 35% cream
1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
Salt and pepper -- to taste
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the fiddleheads, return to a boil and cook until they are almost tender and turn pale green, 5 to 8 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water. Coarsely chop and reserve.
Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until they become translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the fiddleheads and chicken stock. Stir, increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a gentle boil. Cover and cook until the fiddleheads are thoroughly tender, about 5 minutes. Add the cream, reduce the heat to medium, and heat until nearly boiling. Stir in the lemon zest and season the soup to taste with salt and pepper. Serves 4.

Ontario Fiddleheads Gratinee

2 cups fiddleheads
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup vegetable stock
1/2 cup 35% cream
1 large egg yolk
4 tablespoons local goat cheese
1/2 cup homemade breadcrumbs
Pinch of coarse salt
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Cook fiddleheads in boiling, salted water for ten minutes. Meanwhile in a small saucepan, melt butter and stir in the flour and a pinch of coarse salt. Cook for 2 minutes then whisk in the stock and cream over low heat. Cook for a couple more minutes then stir in the egg yolk and goat cheese cheese.
Put half of the fiddleheads into a baking dish and cover with half of the sauce. Repeat. method.
Sprinkle breadcrumbs over the top and bake for 20 minutes. Broil briefly iuntil nicely browned on top.

Wild Leek and Asparagus Vichyssoise

2010-06-01T10:44:00.001-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Wild Leek and Asparagus Vichyssoise

2 pounds asparagus, tips reserved, stalks cut into 1-inch lengths
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ cup wild leeks
1/2 pound potatoes, peeled and cubed
3 cups strong vegetable stock
1 1/2 cups milk
1 1/4 teaspoons coarse salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

In a saucepan of boiling salted water, blanch the asparagus tips until crisp-tender, about 1 minute. Drain the asparagus tips in a colander and refresh under cold water. Pat dry, halve the tips lengthwise and set aside.

Melt the butter in a large saucepan. Add the leeks and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the asparagus, potatoes and stock, bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.

Purée the soup in a blender, then transfer to a large bowl. Stir in the milk, salt and white pepper. Let the soup cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until chilled.

2010-05-24T15:25:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

"Taste" London’s Culinary Guide

By the time you read this article, "Taste", London's Culinary Guide, will be a few days short of being launched by Tourism London and eatdrink magazine. This comprehensive culinary guide was written to support tourism, the local restaurant and hospitality community and to promote the recognition of our terroir and culinary assets as a manifestation of our local culture. It is also our intention to shine the spotlight on our agricultural sector, the "working landscape" in our neck of the woods. I hope you will enjoy the culinary guide, it was a labour of love and is a tribute to all that have contributed to our vibrant local food culture. Please let Tourism London and the many advertisers and stakeholders that supported this project know that our local terroir, gastronomy, service and hospitality personnel continue to enrich the London cultural tourism experience. The economic impact is obvious but the question remains, how do we intelligently capitalize on the distinctive mystique that is the essence of the London culinary sensibility and our status as a creative community. One answer is to support and participate in the London-Middlesex Culinary Tourism Initiative. This initiative is a collaborative collective of hospitality, food service and tourism partners who are interested in raising the profile of London-Middlesex as a recognized, year round culinary tourism region. There are large numbers of enthusiastic tourism stakeholders, culinary retailers, farmers, food producers, restaurateurs and chefs who recognize the opportunities inherent in partnering in a designated culinary tourism district. With the premise that food is the foundation of our culture, culinary tourism experiences offer both locals and vistors the oppourtunity to taste our multiculturalism and unique culinary identity along their journey. While writing and researching 'Taste' we identified that much of the culinary tourism infrastructure is firmly in place and we have continued to identify collaborative partners with authentic and diverse offerings of local culinary products and experiences. The kind of initiative I am writing about, creates an environment that allows good business to get even better.

Locavores and Farmers’ Markets

Early adopters and proponents of culinary tourism realize how important it is to support local farmers and farmers' markets even at a time when consumer demand for locally grown food has never been stronger. Interestingly the perceptions of what constitute "local" vary widely. The London-Middlesex Culinary Tourism Initiative defines local food as grown, raised and harvested in London and Middlesex County and 100 miles surrounding the London area, which include our friendly neighbouring counties of Elgin, Huron and Perth.
And speaking of supporting initiatives, and the tendency to think of the movement for local, seasonal produce as a recent phenomenon, we need to look no farther than Woodfield Cooks, a recently published biographical, local cookbook from the kitchens in London's historic Woodfield neighbourhood. This excellent culinary/cultural overview, edited and compiled by Ann McColl Lindsay, Hazel Desbarats and Ulla Troughton, and illustrated by local artist David Lindsay, has recipes with roots in over 20 countries, reflecting the ethnic diversity of London's historic core. (See Sue Moore's review in this issue of eatdrink.) Do yourself a favour and drop by Jill's Table to pick up a copy before it is sold out.
According to a national study released in February 2009, the impact of farmers' markets on the Canadian economy was reported to be $3.09 billion. Direct marketing via farmgate roadside stands and community supported agriculture (CSA) is also increasing. One of the most interesting statistics was the value that shoppers place on being able to purchase food directly from the farmer or producer that grew and tended it. 92% of consumers rated this important, a fully 62% surveyed rated it as "extremely important."

I am an ardent follower of Sarah Elton, food columnist for CBC Radio’s, Here & Now, who also writes regularly for the Globe and Mail, Maclean’s and the Atlantic’s Food Channel and is a regular tweeter. Her new book, Locavore: From Farmers’ Fields to Rooftop Gardens, How Canadians are changing the Way We Eat, has just been published. According to Elton, "Our farmers’ markets are not only hopping, we have more than 500 across Canada". We also spend about 1 billion at them each year. Although the number of farmers have been on the decline for several decades, a more noble-minded younger generation is moving away from urban areas to the countryside to get back to the earth with sustainable and organic farming practices.

Urban theorist and Creative Cities advocate Richard Florida, has written at length about the need to make our work creative. The declining agricultural sector comeback is in part attributed to the creative class on both the producer and consumer fronts. The creative impact on the consumer end speaks for itself, the demographics for organic, ethical, whole foods and farmers markets lean towards creatives. Both "gourmet" (heritage breeds and cuts of meats) and "heritage" (hierloom cultivars of tomatoes) are actively sought after by creatives, growers as well as consumers. Many of us view farmers markets as an opportunity for entrepreneurial and small farmers to establish community connections and a loyal clientelle through personalized service, niche marketing, and providing high quality and specialized agricultural products. These farmers should also be commended for promoting our local terroir and re- introducing historical heirloom and heritage varieties back into the community. They are a creative breed of farmers, who save their own seeds, cultivate, raise and harvest the agriculture and animals they themselves consume. Best of all, these farmers know the origins of their sustainable offerings have total traceability.

Speaking with farmer/food safety activist Rose White, a founder of the not-for-profit City Farming Project, who sells plants and organic heirloom vegetables at all the farmers markets in London. She stated, " I am optomistic that this year we can expect an extended growing season for our 42 varieties of heirloom tomatoes." White and her fellow farmers will also be growing what she calls, "culturally sensitive varieties of food" that include: Cousa (a Lebanese stuffing squash), Peruvian peppers, salsify, squash blossoms, Egyptian mint, Greek oregano, and a variety of robust rosemary.

Some of you might remember that last year, Rose and her student farmers, (new immigrants enrolled in a work-share program with Youth Opportunities Unlimited) hand-shovelled and planted 160 feet, in 33 rows, of a rare cultivar of heirloom purple potatoes. This work was back-breaking and done without the aid of a roto-tiller. In fact, the eight student farmers (from Darfur and Somalia) often had to make their own farming implements when they broke. From the beginning the farmers skill- shared with a few Canadian students, and quickly developed a deep respect for the local terroir which was combined with a spiritual dedication to the labour intensive process. One of the young immigrant farmers said, "Our garden is so beautiful, it makes the rainbow jealous." The potatoes were planted in a protected area surrounded by tall sunflowers and corn stalks. When the crop was about ready to be harvested the unthinkable happened. It was stolen in broad daylight. "We returned in the late afternoon to find one perfect, well- shovelled mark per mound, while we were away selling our tomatoes," says White The thieves were never apprehended and the young immigrant farmers could not believe that in a country as rich as Canada, that someone would steal their potatoes.

Farmers markets have also been instrumental in the artisanal bread movement that has been on the increase across Canada for the last decade. Bread, often refers to food in general, or simply as a form of currency, in our culinary tradition bread is basic. Bread making is both an art and a science. Whose heart doesn't fill with joy at the first smell of the delicious aroma of freshly baked bread? After years of declining bread quality and the disappearance of bread bakers and artisanal baking; farmers markets, chefs, and shoppers are seeking out craft bakers and bakeries at the heart of their communities. Locally, we have a couple of new artisanal bakers/pastry chefs that deserve attention: Rob Howland at Braise, Michele Lenhardt at the Black Walnut Cafe, Theo Kortoff at Western Fair Farmers Market, Nicole Arroyas at Trail's End and Penelope Holt (would you please come out of retirement - you have legions of fans awaiting your return.)

Speaking of farmers and chefs, a very successful Local Food Connection: Farmer / Food Buyer Networking Event was held at the London Hunt and County Club, to facilitate opportunities for 45 local producers and farmers to meet one-on-one with food buyers to discuss opportunities to do business together. The 2nd annual event was geared to farmers and food producers interested in local food marketing opportunities, and chefs, caterers, retailers, processors, distributors, and food service and institutional providers looking to offer more local food on their menu.

And in other culinary related news:
London City Councillor Gord Hume, a proponent of Municipal Cultural Planning and an advocate of Creative Cities now serving his fourth consecutive term on council has written the recently published, "The Local Food Revolution. " Launched in Stratford, Ontario in May, the book discusses the politics of how food shapes municipalities, and other relevant subjects ranging from eating local to the impact of land fill problems. Londoners need not take umbrage, Stratford is one of the Canadian cities that Hume profiles in his book.

Woodfield Community Cookbook

2010-04-23T12:29:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Woodfield Community Cookbook

For the past year, Ann McColl Lindsay has been working as editor (with Hazel Desbarats and Ulla Troughton) on a collection of recipes representing the lives of those who live in the Woodfield community. There are seventy-three contributors, 337 pages and drawings by Ann's artist/husband David Lindsay. The cookbook is really a culinary/cultural snapshot of London downtown living at its best. Most of the participants have city garden plots at Carling Heights, shop at the local Markets and ride bikes etc. A public launch of the book will be at the Covent Garden Farmers Market on Sat. May 29.

Food Inc.

2010-04-23T12:13:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Food Inc. at Wolf Performance Hall

On April 27 - Screening of Academy award-nominated documentary Food, Inc a powerful expose into the problems associated with our industrialized food system. But it also shows us that there is hope for the future of our food.
The documentary follows a trend of media attempts to create awareness surrounding the importance of buying local. For example, in 2005, through their book, "The 100-Mile Diet" (and subsequent TV series, "The 100-Mile Challenge"), Canadian writers Alisa Smith and J.B MacKinnon launched a popular nationwide local food campaign.
Introduction and discussion after the film facilitated by Pam Killeen and a panel of local food advocates including some of London's top chefs and representatives from local farmer's markets.

When:
6:30 pm, Tuesdays, April 27, 2010
Where:
Wolf Performance Hall, 1st floor, Central Library, 251 Dundas St.

What else:
Free, No registration required.
For information contact 519-661-5122

Contact:
Margaret Maciejewski, Librarian, 519-661-5100 x. 2218
Lynda Kirkham, Communications Officer, 519-661-5121

Lynda Kirkham
Communications Officer
London Public Library
phone: 519-661-5121
fax: 519-661-0682

Terroir

2010-04-13T14:34:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Terroir

It is almost impossible to translate the term terroir from the French in a way that encapsulates all its subtle shades of meaning.The French concept of terroir was initially established over a century ago, as a means of protecting, preserving and advancing agricultural and artisanal practices and regional identities.

Many of us understand that the general idea of terroir is at the root of the French wine Appellation d'origine controlee (AOC) system. It is a system which has been the model for appellation and wine legislation around the world. At its core, terroir is the assumption that the soil from which the grapes are grown imparts unique characteristics that are specific to a particular region, or rather a 'taste of place' or origin. The term terroir has more recently become part of our culinary lexicon to describe the vital connection between locality and the food grown, raised, made and cooked there.Terroir as a concept, allows us to examine 'the taste of origin' as a set of cultural values about place, community, agricultural practices, and as a set of values.

Terroir IV Hospitality Industry Symposium

More than 300 hospitality industry professionals gathered at University of Toronto’s Hart House for the fourth annual “Terroir” symposium in early March. The Terroir Symposium, is a non-profit educational event designed to celebrate the diverse culture of professionals in Ontario's hospitality industry. This year’s theme was aptly titled, Inspiration and Innovation. It was an opportunity to meet and network with peers and colleagues.It was also an occasion to champion the connection between "taste and place' and experience some of the finest culinary offerings and talent in Ontario.

Arlene Stein, Director of Event & Catering at Hart House, is dedicated to working with growers and producers, chefs and restaurateurs to promote culinary experiences. Stein is founder and chair of Terroir which is now in its fourth year. Stein is a driving force in issues of food security and sustainability and works actively with many community organizations as well as being co-chair of Slow Food Toronto and active proponent of culinary tourism. As chair of the Terroir Steering Committee, Stein lead a team that assembled some of Ontario’s most gifted culinary professionals, who interacted and shared their knowledge and experience with their industry colleagues at Hart House. The purpose of the event was also to showcase our regional food products and wine and interact with participants of the symposium with educational panels and tastings.

Terroir IV kicked off with a sumptuous breakfast. The symposium began with chair Donna Dooher, (Mildred's Temple Kitchen) welcoming the attendees,“The hospitality industry shouldn't’ take a backseat to the economy. We’re the gatekeepers of the nation, and we must embrace that role,” she declared.

Dooher was followed by a lively in-depth discussion featuring award-wining food journalists from across North America. Focusing on the role of press (both print and on line) the panel offered expertise on how chefs and restaurateurs should engage the media, and offered insight into how Ontario can increase its exposure on the world’s culinary stage — and offered observations on what makes a city or region a great culinary tourist destination.
The panel challenged restaurateurs to be positive and find “exciting narratives” to showcase their businesses. The panel also reminded the audience that editors and food journalists are always looking for hook for an interesting food article.

Alan Richman, a food writer for GQ magazine, declared,“Paris is dead,” stating that he prefers the intimacy and simplicity of dining in villages instead of large metropolis's. Nevertheless, New York, Tokyo, Barcelona and,Toronto, were praised by the panel for their dynamic culinary cultures. Mitchell Davis, vice-president of the James Beard Foundation in New York, said it best, when he told the audience, “Any place can be a great food city,” giving unexpected acknowledgement to the vibrant culinary scene in Milwaukee - “All it takes for a city to become a sought-out dining destination is a passionate citizenry that cares about food.”

The event featured interactive discussions like: 'Creating Your Local Menu' and how to bring more 'terroir' into your kitchen; 'To Oak Or Not To Oak?' or rather the impact oak barrels have on wine production; Restaurant Review - a discussion about the key ingredients for establishing successful restaurants; the power of mentorship; and a spirited debate about whether tipping is an out-moded practice. Preceeding the debate on gratuities, 58 per cent of attendees did not want to change the established system, while some 40 per cent were interested in experimenting with a new model.
Later in the day, the keynote address by David Kinch, chef/proprietor of Manresa, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Los Gatos, Calif., was one of the inspirational highlights of the event. To build terroir — or “a sense of place” — into a restaurant, Kinch states chefs must use quality products that are representative of the region. “You must show respect for those ingredients,” he enthused. “You must also learn about and pay heed to culinary tradition. Most importantly, you must have clientele in the region that is willing and able to support your restaurant, and you must exhibit maturity in everything you do. Ingredients are important, but it’s not just about products.” True inspiration also leads to innovation. “Imitate, assimilate and then innovate,” he enthused, noting the importance for chefs to remember the client. “Don’t cook for yourself or other chefs. Keeping your customers happy is the key.”

Chef Jonathan Gushue of Langdon Hall, assembled an exciting, diverse lineup of Savour Ontario Dining Chefs to prepare the day's offerings. Featuring top-quality, Ontario-sourced ingredients, Gushue’s roster includied top Toronto chefs but the out-of-town contingent was also among the province’s best. The breakfast roster included Jason Schubert and Paul Harding of London's The Only on King. (see this months cover story) The morning seminars were followed by a relaxed multi-course culinary extravaganza for 300.

“Terroir is the leading hospitality event in Ontario and Savour Stratford Perth County is pleased to host the networking reception this year. It is a great opportunity for Stratford chefs to showcase the best of Perth County products on an international stage.” enthused, Danielle Brodhagen, Programme Development at Stratford Tourism Alliance, who organized the Terroir reception with a veritible who's who, of Stratford Chef's and graduates of the Stratford Chefs School.

Showcasing products from Perth County farmers and artisan food producers, Stratford successfuly linked food to place with its emerging, modern cuisine du terroir with a fidelity to origin and season. Stratford's culinary talent included: Chef Lee Avigdor, Down the Street Bar and Restaurant, serving ‘Berkshire Pork Rillette on Red Fife Spring Wheat Croutons, and Pickled 'Soiled Reputation' Vegetables along with Marinated Weth mushroom and "C'est Bon" Goat Cheese Arugula Croutons; Chef Sheldon Russell from Keystone Alley Café, who collaborated with Renecker’s Palace Hillside Elk Farm; Chef Sean Collins and Chef Yva Santini of Pazzo Ristorante who prepared Red Fife Cavatelli with Megens Family Farm Lamb Ragu; Chef Marc Chartrand and Chef Hannah Campbell from The Old Prune, featuring C’est Bon Goat Cheese; Chef Paul Finkelstein and students from The Screaming Avacodo Cafe, showcasing Tanjo Family Farm’s Partridge with Red Fife wheat and produce from their garden. Chef Matt Duffy from Langdon Hall, baked a selection of artisanal bread that was paired with Chef Ruth Klahsen’s Monforte Dairy cheeses and accompanied with preserves from McCully’s Hill Farm and Augusts Harvest. Chef Shawn Hartwell of Simple Fish ‘n Chips, (see this months spotlight) prepared Perth County Root Vegetable Salad of Purple Viking and Fingerling Potatoes, Jerusalem Artichokes, Celeriac Root and Sweet Parsnips in a Buttermilk Dressing with Lyndon Farms's Smoked Rainbow Trout.

London - Middlesex Culinary Tourism Initiative

2010-03-23T09:23:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

What is the London- Middlesex County Culinary Tourism Initiative?

The LMCCTI is a collaborative collective of tourism partners who want to raise the profile of London-Middlesex and area as a desirable destination for those interested in our culinary culture as a first or incidental consideration for traveling in our neck-of-the-woods. We are confident that there are large numbers of enthusiastic of tourism stakeholders, culinary retailers, farmers, food producers, restaurateurs and chefs who are collaborative, community-minded and see the opportunities of working together to build and partner in a recognised culinary tourism district. Maybe less obvious, but nevertheless important partners are: hotels, B &B's, golf courses, spas, meeting and convention facilities.

We have identified that much of the culinary tourism infrastructure is already in place but that we need to further identify collaborative partners before approaching the Culinary Tourism Association of Ontario.

Mission Statement

The London-Middlesex County Culinary Tourism Initiative is a collaborative association designed to develop and promote London and the surrounding area of Middlesex County, as a recognized, year-round culinary destination, with authentic and diverse offerings of local culinary products and experiences.

Goals

Promote the recognition of our local terroir as a manifestation of our local culture.

Develop market intelligence.

Encourage research, education, training and mentorship.

Support the London-Middlesex established culinary infrastructure, and promote new culinary tourism products and development.

Establish mechanisms for funding and support.

Establish strong leadership with an articulate vision.

Increase the availability, accessibility and visibility of local foods and products.

Support and contribute to the local economy & environmental sustainability.

Celebrate and increase visibility of culinary businesses, local farmers, foods and cuisine.

Map and showcase London and Middlesex County's unique and diverse culinary assets and products and experiences that are distinct to the region.

Build collaborative and sustainable partnerships from field to the chef to the guest.

To help facilitate food and beverage providers, as well as destinations and travel industry stakeholders, to brand, package and promote their culinary resources as marketable and sellable attractions.

What is Local?

London-Middlesex Culinary Tourism Initiative defines local food as grown, raised and harvested in London and Middlesex County and 100 miles surrounding the London area, which includes the surrounding counties and beyond.

The Only on King is King

2010-03-22T17:11:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

The Only on King

In its third year, The Only on King, with its farm-to-table philosophy and a cooking repertoire that is classic, clean, and both rural and modern, continues to evolve while attracting savvy diners, locavores and food purists to their intimate 40-seat dining room. But that should not deter adventurists looking for their inner gastronome or something a bit more upscale — Foie Gras Parfait with Toasted Brioche, Truffle Butter and Prune and Armagnac Puree, perhaps — but first throw your preconceived ideas about dining out the window and make a reservation for dinner. (The Only on King does not serve lunch.)

Located in a historic building and former dairy on King Street in the London downtown dining district, The Only on King has a warm and welcoming ambiance. Restaurant manager Scott Sloan offers, “Our service is casual but professional, which encourages a certain camaraderie between our guests and the staff.” The Only on King does not do perfunctory.

Chef/owners Paul Harding and Jason Schubert share a mutual support that is creative in nature, working long hours, sharing knowledge, and studying gastronomy (note the shelves of cookbooks by the entrance to the kitchen). I have had the great pleasure to eat at this establishment on numerous occasions and have been a proponent of their cooking since day one.

Schubert exudes enthusiasm, confidence, and his trademark combative bravado when he explains, “Sometimes when dealing with customers it can feel like we are breaking horses.” He’s referring to the intractable old-school type of diner who is reluctant to embrace change or new concepts in modern dining, and how he and Harding challenge old-fashioned perceptions about dining, which most often culminates in gaining the client’s trust. Yes, these are London’s tongue-in-cheek “bad boy chefs,” who are determined to keep their clients informed, entertained and well-fed. In fact, The Only on King was voted number 6 of “Canada’s Best New Restaurants in 2008” by enRoute magazine. “You may be surprised to know that the single best dish of the year may well be the simple vegetable salad at this former dairy in London, Ontario. If the kitchen can do this much with a salad, imagine what it can do with vitello tonnato (the classic Italian preparation of braised veal in a tuna sauce) or braised beef cheek (which shows up alongside fingerling potatoes and Cheshire blue cheese in its superb rendition of poutine),” enthused enRoute. Last year the inconsistent guide Where to Eat in Canada lauded the restaurant but not without first taking a few swipes at the decor.

Paul Harding began preparing family meals in his youth and developed a passionate enthusiasm for cooking. Harding was inspired by James Barber, the cookbook author and television chef, who appeared on CBC-TV for 10 years as The Urban Peasant. (Barber was an effusive cook who rejected the snobbery and gourmet banalities of the culinary world and endeavored to make cooking straightforward and accessible.) After high school, Harding moved to Toronto to attend George Brown College. Paul worked in Toronto at Cafe Societa and Michelle’s Brasserie, honing his skills, and was later employed as the Chef de Partie at Auberge du Pommier (Oliver and Bonacini’s upscale tribute to modern French dining) and the much heralded JOV Bistro, an internationally acclaimed neighbourhood fine-dining bistro in its heyday.
Jason Schubert started cooking at age fifteen at the YMCA Camp, Queen Elizabeth, on the rocky shores of Beausoleil Island in Georgian Bay Islands National Park. After high school, he moved to Vancouver B.C., were he trained under Andrey Durbach. Durbach is the executive chef and former owner of Etoile and co-owner of Parkside, La Buca, and Pied-a-Terre restaurants, and the author of the children’s book Delicious Chicken Soup. Jason also spent time in Montreal doing stages (a stage is when a cook or chef works briefly in another chef’s kitchen to learn and be exposed to new techniques and cuisines) in Guernsey and Marco Pierre White’s flagship restaurant Mirabelle, that semi-legendary restaurant in Curzon Street, Mayfair, which has been serving extremely high-quality classic French cuisine for several decades.

The demands and disciplines of sourcing and cooking an ever-changing daily menu with a deep appreciation for the providential bounty of Ontario is a testament to both Harding’s and Schubert’s creativity and unique perspective. This type of menu is forward-thinking by traditional standards, and something that very few chefs/restaurateurs would be in a position to execute with the kind of success and commitment that the kitchen at The Only on King has achieved. The daily menus are consistent and accessible, and highlight the best in seasonal and local food procurement. This type of cooking can be very labour-intensive, and given the traditionally slim profit margins in this type of restaurant, the rewards are not necessarily monetary. Harding and Schubert are among the new wave of collaborative chefs who embrace the tenets of terroir, sustainability, seasonality and accountability.

A recent collaboration with Tawse Winery and Chef/Co-owner Victor Barry of Splendido restaurant in Toronto was a sold-out success at the Only on King. Joanne Kates wrote in the Globe and Mail of Chef Barry's kitchen, “This is food as design statement, and also a visual enunciation of Splendido’s mission: to showcase and celebrate the local and seasonal.” These types of collaborations reflect The Only’s innovative, open-minded approach.

The Chefs possess a superior grasp of traditional French and Italian classics, as well as an anthology of their homegrown southwestern Ontario cuisine that they express with creativity. Both Harding and Schubert deliver food to the diners and are well-informed and formidable culinary raconteurs who understand that great food and technically proficient cooking should be accompanied by genuine hospitality and the ability to provide intelligent commentary, not only on their cuisine but on the wine.

Dinner at The Only on King begins with the breaking of bread. A basket of warm, white-linen-wrapped house-made bread, which is both rustic and delicious, is accompanied by long, crisp, melt-in-your-mouth breadsticks and a generous pot of good, creamy butter. In keeping with their philosophy of local food procurement, flour, grains and legumes are purchased from one of their close friends, Mike Mathews, who owns the historic Arva Flour Mills. The Arva Flour Mill has been operating locally since 1819 using still water power from Medway Creek. The list of local producers that The Only on King supports is a long one. Farben Farms is the local source for recent dishes featuring Berkshire Pork raised in a natural environment with no additives, hormones or drugs.

Both Schubert and Harding are becoming proficient at butchering and preparing many of their own house-made specialties classed as charcuterie. They are curing their own prosciutto. Butchery of course is traditional and noble work which is having a renaissance in ambitious restaurant kitchens. Primary butchery consists of selecting carcasses, sides, or quarters, from which primal cuts can be obtained with a minimum of waste. Charcuterie, considered the dominion of bourgeois cooking, was also until recently considered a lost art in restaurants. Charcuterie is the category of cooking devoted to the prepared meat products: bacon, sausage, ham, terrines, galantines, pates and confit, primarily from pork. Harding and Schubert have perfected the necessary cooking fundamentals and techniques to achieve a repertoire of classic charcuterie dishes. Pork rillettes are a noble item of French charcuterie, and at The Only on King, they are rich and moist with aromatic flavours and a spreadable texture.

Harding and Schubert clearly think about the visual and technical composition of each dish they prepare. Poaching, braising, steaming, sautéing, seasoning and sauce-making are the fundamental skills this kitchen employs to attain their objectives. Muscovy Duck or de-boned and flattened Cornish game hens and other domestic fowl receive a deftness of touch and are delectable and crispy skinned. In the case of chicken, whether it is a leg or a breast, this bird is always cooked by this kitchen with unparalleled finesse. The skin is flawlessly seared, and the flesh is moist with juices that run clear yellow. A classic Boudin (white sausage) of chicken has become a delicious signature dish.

Veal Chop can be found on the menu, but this chef duo has a talent for cooking lesser-known cuts of meat to great effect. These cuts are often inexpensive and versatile, with a depth of flavour when prepared using the right techniques. Organic flat-iron steak and grilled organic beef heart are cooked to perfection and receive skilled treatment. The sauces at this restaurant often elevate a good piece of meat to a superior one. Tender beef cheeks from Fieldgate Organic Farms are remarkable for their taste and texture and make several other versions around the city look like bowls of over-cooked sludge in contrast. Properly cooked risotto is rich and creamy but still with some resistance or bite: al dente, and comprised of individual grains. Their risotti repertoire, which is rarely properly executed in local restaurants, is commendable in their hands.

I still remember a dish of house-made pasta ribbons with a medley of delicious barely-cooked wild mushrooms at the peak of their flavour and combined with cured salted pork belly. It was truly an unforgettable amalgam of perfectly synchronized flavours, even before the addition of good-quality olive oil.

This restaurant also prepares delectable desserts, mostly in the comfort-food realm, but also the classics like silky crème brûlées. A deep flavoured Chocolate Nemesis, Chocolate Mousse and Walnut Torte have all been memorable. I have brayed repeatedly that the kitchen knows how to make a great bread pudding and turn the apple into something truly elegant and consoling.

There is also has an excellent selection of first-rate after-dinner cheeses on offer. The revival of the cheese course is a strong culinary trend that includes a growing appreciation for Ontario and Quebec cheeses of every flavour, texture and shape. One of my favourites, and one that The Only on King introduced me to is a washed-rind cheese from La Fromagerie Alexis de Portneuf in Saint-Raymond de Portneuf, Quebec, known as La Sauvagine. This melt-in-your-mouth cheese with a creamy pale interior looks kind of like brie, but is softer. The rind is soft and edible with a yellow or orange tint. This cheese is so good that it was awarded the 5th Canadian Cheese Grand Prix. The cheese course is never an afterthought. The perfect accompaniment after dinner is their impeccably full-flavoured espresso.
When I went to speak with the two chefs about this article, they were waiting for a delivery of Molise black truffles to shave on the evening’s offering of house-made gnocchi. In the meantime, I pressed them to tell me what that their favourite local restaurant is. The answer was Shiki Japanese Restaurant on Wellington Street. Shiki is well-known by industry insiders for its sushi; but being an ethical seafood eater, I press for another choice. The chefs recommend a late-night burger at Braise.

The food at The Only on King is interesting, never boring or predictable, and the menus are always evolving to scrupulously highlight the best ingredients available. Over time, there has been a progressive lightening of tone in the restaurant, though not a relaxing of commitment or technique. The menu is designed to allow plenty of choice, prices are not over the top for the quality, and good value is to be had. At peak times, service can feel the pressure, but staff members are smart, helpful, intelligent, and well-versed in the comedy of manners. You can tell that the kitchen runs the show. The Only on King is the gold standard for delicious, inspired cuisine in London. Harding and Schubert, with their patriotic acknowledgement of the local terroir and support of local farmers and producers, are the embodiment and archetype for culinary tourism in our neck of the woods.

The Only on King
172 King Street
London
(519) 936-2064
www.theonlyonking.ca

Water,Water Everywhere and Not a Drop to Drink

2010-03-04T18:14:00.000-08:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Water,Water Everywhere and Not a Drop to Drink

It is a special occasion, and my friends and I are looking forward to an evening out. We were conscientious,we made a reservation, and we even dressed better than we usually do. My companions are cultured, well-heeled and down-to-earth. We are former restaurant people; probably more considerate and forgiving than most diners.
We are greeted with rushed civility and not even seated in our assigned chairs
when the maître d’/water sommelier begins his inquisition, demanding to know
our poison, bottled or tap? The tone of his voice sounds more like an accusation than
an inquiry. The words “tap water” on his parched lips have an unexpected air of
derision and vulgarity. He offers no snappy tutorial on the availability, taste, clarity,brightness or viscosity of the bottled water. It is as if he is looking right through us,blatantly sizing us up, guesstimating the sales prospects of the table and whether we are potentially upsellable or not. In other words, can we be intimidated; and if so, to what dollar value. We opt for the tap water
and our sales potential is immediately underestimated. But I certainly am not
expecting what happens next. Minutes later, I get the distinct impression that we
failed the tap water test and are getting the bum’s rush.
I find that transactional and passive aggressive exchanges like this incident take all the hospitality and pleasure out of dining. I was embarrassed for the maître d’and for the restaurant. I did not want to complain about the service, but my irritation escalated when the tap water took a long and circuitous route to our table.

The problem of running an ambitious restaurant on a limited budget is that the bottom line becomes the focus, and well-paid, professionally trained staff is not a priority. In this case, it seemed the service was not about encouraging customer loyalty or satisfaction. It was about squeezing every penny from the diner. This happens too often these days,and it makes me uncomfortable. Is it too much trouble to put a complimentary glass of cold water on the table while we peruse the menu? If we want bottled water, we will order it. It is galling when servers are disingenuous and aggressively try to push something on you in an attempt to make you feel stingy and uncultured, while they increase their cheque average. I don’t condemn all forms of suggestive selling out of hand; but we like to know our options, their sources and the specialties that might complement our choices. And considering the pedigree of the chef in this fine establishment, the décor and the prices, it seems uncouth for anyone to utter scripted words like “tapwater.” In such elegant surroundings, the term “ice water” should suffice.

Once an avid consumer of bottled water, I have now developed an aversion to it. I
had to rethink my perceptions and dining rituals. Despite the popular perception that
bottled water is tastier than municipal water, this is more theoretical than real.
Bottled water is not necessarily cleaner, safer or even healthier than our local supply. We certainly know that bottled water is not coming from the pure springs of distant mountains and glaciers, despite its designer labels. The bottled water revolution of the last decade has come with a huge environmental footprint, and drinking bottled water is something that really needs to be rethought. — B.L

Sustainable Seafood

2010-03-04T17:02:00.000-08:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Was there a theme in the food media this year? In the realm of food politics, it is apparent that “eating organic” has given way to “eating locally.” In my own quest for awareness and knowledge, I read two books that greatly advanced my understanding of food politics and ethics. The first book, The Ethical Gourmet by Jay Weinstein, is an informative and provocative guide on how to enjoy great food that is humanely raised, sustainable, nonendangered and that replenishes the earth. The book also features over 100 recipes.

The second book, Bottomfeeder by Canadian writer Taras Grescoe, is another important book for our times and a brilliant dissertation on the politics surrounding overfishing, the sustainability of endangered fish species, and how to eat ethically in a world of vanishing seafood. Grescoe’s last book, The Devil’s Picnic, was a thought-provoking national bestseller that explored forbidden food and drink around the globe.

Fish

Fifteen years ago, wet with winter sleet, we hailed a cab from Manhattan to Nobu, Chef Nobu Matushia’s flagship restaurant in Tribeca. Sophisticated food enthusiasts considered Nobu the gastronomic temple for Manhattan’s most desired raw fish and rice dishes. A mecca for the haute monde, it was at the very top of the food chain and was co-owned by Nobu, Drew Nieporent and Robert De Niro.

Like a mariner lured by a seductive siren my companion moved towards a magnificent
raw bar featuring the freshest worldclass sushi and sashimi. We put ourselves
in the hands of the Itamae (sushi chef) and ordered the omakase (which literally means “trust me” and in that case meant “chef’s choice”), allowing him carte blanche to serve us sophisticated combinations of the highest-quality sourced fish, paired with warm vinegar tinged rice in crisp smoky nori and exquisitely sliced raw fresh seafood. He managed theatrical feats with his knives and crafted each minimalist offering with diverse fillings, toppings and condiments. We used our fingers so as not to injure the meticulously crafted offerings. Encouraging our requests and questions was all part of the Itamae’s subtle, unexpected cultural courtesies and personal attention. Each succulent, luxurious morsel that he proffered was a showstopper. After a multi-course dinner, we made our way uptown to the Cafe Carlyle where Eartha Kitt was performing.
Over the years, I had come to think of this as a perfect meal. However, I no longer feel this way. The fact that the global sushi trade has relied considerably on unsustainable fishing and aquaculture practices that have left an enormous carbon footprint made me reconsider. How do we eat ethically in a world of unsustainable food choices? My learning curve has involved a long process extending over a number of years. Even more difficult has been my continuing education on the contentious issues surrounding ethical seafood choices. It is a complex subject that requires commitment, vigilance and awareness. Over the last five years, my interest in the
moral and ethical implications surrounding disappearing and endangered fish species has escalated. When I refer to sustainable seafood, I am talking about ethically fished or farmed (aquaculture) species that can maintain or increase production in the future, rather than the still current practice of injuring the ecosystems with destructive fishing methods.

I have been a member of the Endangered Fish Alliance (www.endangeredfishalliance.org)
since its inception in 2002, when a group of concerned restaurateurs, chefs and environmentalists joined staff members of the Toronto Enviroguide to encourage its members to make environmentally wise choices by not serving four endangered fish: swordfish, Chilean sea bass, orange roughy and certain types of endangered caviar-egg-producing sturgeons from Russia, Iran and Turkey.
The collapse of the cod stocks off Atlantic Canada in an ocean once thought to be an
inexhaustible supply of food epitomized one of the most contentious environmental
and natural resource management disasters of the 20th century. Fishing has always been a vital part of Canada’s economy and has shaped the foundation of the social fabric of many of our coastal communities. In 1992, the moratorium on cod
fishing plunged 40,000 Atlantic Canadian fisherman and processing plant employees into unemployment. In 2003, the Canadian government finally declared the northern Atlantic cod an endangered species. On our Pacific coast, one of the world’s great gastronomic luxuries — and once considered to be an everlasting resource — wild pacific salmon is sappearing. Yet it was not that many years ago that I saw salmon in the Fraser River in British Columbia, abundant and teeming in their awe-inspiring journey upstream to spawn.
I fear few people are aware that Atlantic salmon is now predominately a farmed fish
raised in Pacific coastal farms. The practice of farming salmon began in Norway in the late 1960s and in Canada in the 1970s, in response to the depletion of wild fish.
Farmed salmon, once hailed as the solution to the endangered stocks of wild
salmon, have become the most ubiquitous and affordable fresh fish in North American
kitchens and restaurants. But along with farmed shrimp, farmed salmon is among
the principal aquaculture controversies that we should be paying close attention to.
Bred in polluted oceanbased pens rife with relentless organic contaminants, anemic-
looking farmed salmon are fed chemical growth agents and dyes to give them
their luxurious colour and enhance their appearance. Farmed salmon is also generally acknowledged origin of the prevalence of sea lice and attendant diseases in our wild fish stocks. Fish farmers have begun to use pesticides in their fish feed pellets to stop the threat of sea lice. Practices such as these make me question whether or not the variety of fish we eat may be less important than what the fish we’re dining on has been fed or eaten itself.
I keep up-to-date with the Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wise program (www.
vanaqua.org/conservation/oceanwise), which works with restaurants to help identify sustainable for their menus. Three years ago, Sustainable Seafood Canada, a national coalition of
leading non-profit environmental groups, initiated SeaChoice (http://www.seachoice.org/), a omprehensive Canadian program that raises awareness and delivers solutions for sustainable fisheries. Part of the SeaChoice mandate is to rank seafood by sustainability and educate consumers, retailers and suppliers about the country of origin, how it is caught, its journey
from sea to market, and how to effectively manage the freshest of their inventory.
Choosing seafood wisely requires developing an awareness of the environmental and moral issues at hand, and informing ourselves about which species are and are not being overexploited.
At the same time, as consumers we need to be mindful of which varieties are fished (line or trawl net) or farmed in an ethical manner that is renewable and won’t jeopardize the future of the species or the destruction of marine habitat and attendant bycatch. (Bycatch being the fish and marine life that is caught and most often killed as a side effect of fishers pursuing a targeted, more commercial, species.) The more ethically minded consumers, chefs and culinary enthusiasts that informed, targeted boycotts of endangered species can make a significant difference in our eating preferences. An estimated 70 percent of fish in North America is consumed in restaurants. We should avoid catch from the top end of the deepsea food chain and think about fish and seafood that are less commercially important and underutilized. At the top of the food chain are big luxury fish like blue fin tuna, Chilean sea bass, shark and swordfish. All have been seriously depleted and are not good ethical or sustainable choices.
There is also a need for labeling laws that state country of origin, whether the fish has been farmed or fished, whether it has been previously frozen and thawed, and whether or
not the fish is certified sustainable. It has become increasingly important to continue
to raise awareness and bring about selfimposed moratoriums on purchasing and supporting restaurants that continue to serve endangered fish stocks.

A partial answer to finding the best environmental and sustainable choices for
seafood is a program run by the Marine Stewardship Council (www.msc.org). The Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) is a self-determining, non-profit organization that has established global environmental criteria for sustainable and well managed fisheries. The MSC seeks to connect consumer preference for products from sustainable fisheries by the use of its blue MSC ecolabel. When fish is purchased that has the ecolabel, it indicates that the fishery operates in an
environmentally responsible way and does not contribute to the global problem of overfishing.
There are currently over 1,700 products with the MSC ecolabel, sold in 38 countries
around the world. In his acclaimed book The Omnivore’s Dilemma, a brilliant treatise on the greater moral issues surrounding what we choose to eat and the impact of our choices, author
Michael Pollan states, “Fishing is the last economically important hunter-gatherer food chain, even though this foraging economy is rapidly giving way to aquaculture, for the same reason that hunting wild game succumbed to raising livestock. It is depressing though not at all difficult to
imagine our grandchildren living in a world in which fishing for a living is history.”
Do you really know what is underneath all that batter in the frozen fish aisle?

CHILEAN SEA BASS
Pirate fishing fleets disregard fishing limits and illegally catch this fish from
Antarctica. It may be commercially extinct within five years.
Alternatives include: Alaskan Halibut, Atlantic Herring, Atlantic Striper, Cat Fish, Pacific Halibut
Sable Fish, Shad, Striped Bass and White Sea Bass

SWORDFISH
Swordfish are usually caught on longlines, which kill both the adults and the
young, as well as many tuna, sharks and sea turtles. Swordfish may not be
a healthy choice. It has a high level of cancer-causing methylmercury, also a reproductive toxin.
Alternatives include: Hawaii Swordfish, Tuna (long line-caught Albacore, Bigeye, Yellowfin
and canned light, white & Albacore)

CAVIAR
The caviar egg-producing sturgeons from Russia, Iran and Turkey are at risk of
extinction because of overfishing and water pollution. Sturgeons don’t produce
eggs until age 20, so heavy fishing doesn’t allow time for the young to grow up
and reproduce.
Alternatives include:
Farmed White Sturgeon
Caviar
Farmed Paddlefish Roe
Farmed Rainbow Trout Roe
Whitefish Roe
Wild Pacific Salmon Roe

ORANGE ROUGHY
This fish can live to be over 100 years old. Each July, when they are over 20, they
come together in easy-to net spawning schools. Once 30,000 tons of orange
roughy could be taken quickly from one place.
Alternatives include:
Pacific Halibut
Pacific Sole
Sumer Flounder

2010-01-12T12:58:00.001-08:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Aroma – A Pervasive Characteristic or Quality

Felipe Gomes’ Aroma Mediterranean Restaurant and Adega Wine Bar

A restaurant’s location is as crucial to its success as good food and service. Restaurants come and restaurants go, and sometimes it’s the space that helps define the experience. One location that has always managed to produce appealing restaurants is the one in an old heritage building on the southwest corner of Richmond and Piccadilly Streets. The building has a distinctive, intangible quality; an aura: the aroma of success.
In its early days as a restaurant, the site was occupied by famed London restaurateur and the original owner of the Auberge du Petit Prince, Ginette Bisaillion. After selling the Auberge du Petit Prince to the incomparable Chef Chris Squire in 1976, Bisaillion later opened the elegantly casual but upscale French-themed Café du Midi where Aroma is now. With delicious French offerings, airy ambience, ivy-clad yellow brick walls, wrought-iron furniture and Mexican tile floors, Café du Midi quickly became a mecca for the culinary community and the ladies who lunch. Those were the days of leisurely liquid lunches, and Kir was Café du Midi’s signature cocktail, made with a quantity of crème de cassis (blackcurrant liqueur) topped with crisp, dry, redoubtable French white wine.
If memory still serves, there were several other incarnations in this space, including the Summerhouse, a short-lived but delicious Italian bistro, Woody’s and most recently, Mark Kitching’s much-venerated Waldo’s of London, which occupied this space for a remarkable eighteen years before moving to its present location in the Covent Garden Market.

The latest manifestation at this location is Aroma Mediterranean Restaurant and Adega Wine Bar, which has been owned and operated by Felipe Gomes for almost five years. Felipe Gomes was born in Lisbon, Portugal and immigrated to Canada almost a quarter of a century ago. Gomes, a dynamic community leader, has served on the board of directors for Tourism London, the Rotary Club of London, and the Canadian National Institute for the Blind. Through these associations, he has been involved in many charitable initiatives and community fundraising events. Gomes is a former hotel man (assistant general manager at the downtown Hilton, director of food and beverage for the Sheraton Hotel, and director of operations for the Meridien Hotel in Lisbon, Portugal), and among other abilities, was trained to handle the vagaries of budgeting, advertising and marketing of special events. He is also the founder and owner of F.G. International, a dedicated and experienced group of London professionals who have provided conference management and event planning services since 2000. The company has been instrumental in facilitating several local festivals and special events that have included the Chef’s Club, Greek, Chinese and Italian festivals, London Idol and a “Tribute to Elvis.”
In 2004, Gomes was a co- executive producer of the inspirational historical documentary Strong Hearts, Steady Hands, chronicling the story of the Portuguese community in Canada, from the historic day in 1953 when the first Portuguese pioneers set foot on Canada’s shore to fifty years later. In recent times, Gomes’ efforts have been focused on Aroma and his successful culinary corporate team-building workshops classes, as well as a variety of on-going charitable initiatives and Portuguese cultural awareness.
Promotional material for the culinary team-building workshops for corporate training and leadership development states, “Our experts offer the ultimate culinary experience, while enhancing the skills of the participants in communication, cooperation, cohesiveness, encouragement, and team spirit through team effort.” Aroma offers these cooking experiences for both private and corporate groups. The classes are tailored to meet the needs of each unique group, whether the purpose is team building or pure entertainment. The team-building programs take the participants out of their corporate atmosphere and place them into a fun, non-stress social situation where the accent can be refocused onto the team, without the pressures of the workplace. Cooking a meal brings out the creativity and ingenuity of the individuals and enhances their skills, while putting the emphasis on cooperation, achievement and morale.
The premises are an expansive, well-appointed subterranean courtyard and atrium, with additional private rooms and facilities for the popular team-building cooking classes for 60 people, and video conferencing facilities. This incarnation of the premises has an additional room known as the Adega Lounge Wine bar. (The Portuguese word “adega” is derived from the Greek word meaning storehouse or repository.)
The Adega Lounge Wine bar is modeled on a traditional eighteenth-century Portuguese wine cellar and a throwback (in a good way) to a style of décor and an experience that typify Old-World charm. The room has become a cozy haven for wine enthusiasts. (We recently sipped Mateus there - not the medium-sweet frizzante rosé in its distinctive narrow-necked, flask-shaped bottle designed to appeal to the rapidly developing North American and northern European markets in the 1950s and 1960s, but instead a delicious contemporary dry white version in a straight-sided and high-shouldered bordeaux-shaped bottle.)
The feeling of the Adega Lounge and Wine Bar is that one has come upon an excavation where the restaurateur has been quarrying through layers of time to unearth vintage ports, wines, and gustatory delights of a bygone era. In renovating the restaurant, Gomes discovered a 600-square-foot space that had not been utilized for over fifty years behind the plaster and drywall at the front of the building. On one visit to the restaurant, our server Brooke told us that the room was filled from floor to ceiling with accounting records and papers from a prior business in this location. Solid walnut beams and the exposed interior yellow brick face helped inspire Gomes to faithfully replicate the ambience and dining experience typical of a Mediterranean countries, one not commonly found in contemporary restaurants.
The wine bar houses a vast array of ubiquitous international wines and port, some of which are featured in a built-in, reinforced and recessed vault in the floor. This precious repository sits on a sandy base that is also strewn with ancient pottery and bronze medallions. This display, covered by a solid transparent lid of heavy tempered glass, resembles a preserved excavation that patrons can walk across or stand on to peer into its contents. The room is decorated with wine barrels, tapestries, paintings, crystal decanters and cruets, antique Middle Eastern accents, and other relevant cultural paraphernalia.
Aroma’s Mediterranean-inspired menu features cross- ethnic specialties from the countries of the Mediterranean basin, including southern France, Italy, Greece and Spain, and showcases the predominantly rich, filling and full-flavoured dishes characteristic of Gomes’ Portuguese heritage. The menu is a unique combination of cuisines, very approachable for the average diner, with many selections that will be familiar to patrons. In homage to the cuisine of this region, the menu features a delicious and fresh daily fish special, think fresh red snapper, stone bass and dorada (a.k.a gilthead bream) as well as tilapia (quelle horreur) and salmon as regular selections.
Try the healthful Caldo Verde, a traditional Portuguese soup featuring kale. Lobster bisque from this kitchen is a delicate, silky, creamy, meaty, highly seasoned soup of French origin.
The grilled piri piri (sauce of small, fiery chili peppers) chicken with sea salt, garlic and olive oil is a traditional version of the Portuguese specialty that is gaining mainstream popularity at restaurants like King of the Pigs and Tiagos at the Covent Garden Market. The Chorizo Pizza, described on the menu as a Mediterranean thin crust topped with homemade chorizo sausage, roasted red peppers and wild mushrooms, may not have had a particularly thin crust but it was delicious and appeared to be house-made, with toppings that were flavourful and well-balanced. Chorizo is a delicious smoky pork and chili pepper sausage originating from the Iberian Peninsula – in this case, house-made – and is itself a standout ingredient on the menus. Gomes, I am told, has his imprint all over the menu, including the delectable signature calamari tubes stuffed with well-seasoned bread crumbs, mushrooms and chorizo and topped with a fragrant Andalusian sauce.
The dessert selection was presented on a large tray in the European style. The desserts were displayed fully garnished, and our dessert choices were served right off the platter that came to our table. The crème brûlée, resembling traditional Portuguese custard more than typical crème brûlée custard, was returned to the kitchen to prepare the contrasting layer of hard crystallized sugar topping. It was delicious, as was the coffee. On another occasion we were served a traditional Portuguese custard tart and a 4- berry cobbler.
On weekends, Aroma often features Mediterranean-style entertainment that includes opera, Fado (a Portuguese music genre that typically includes a singer and guitar), Spanish guitarists, Flamenco (the traditional music of the Andalusian gypsies), and jazz.
Distinctive, pervasive and usually a pleasant or savoury scent, or the odour of wine imparted by the grapes from which it is made, the term “aroma,” like the name of Felipe Gomes’ restaurant, embodies an agreeable odor or pleasing fragrance, especially of food, drink and spices.

Hours of Operation
Sunday - Thursday 11:30 a.m. - 10:00 p.m.
Friday & Saturday 12:00 p.m. -11:00 p.m.

717 Richmond Street, London, ON N6A 1S2
TELEPHONE: (519) 435-0616
EMAIL: fg_international@bellnet.ca
WEBSITE: www.aromarestaurant.ca

2010-01-07T21:14:00.000-08:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Culinary Trends as a Gauge of the Popular Culture

The end of one decade and the beginning of another is a good time to reassess the role of culinary trends as a gauge of the popular culture. How we eat, what we eat, and where we eat are all indicators of the larger popular consciousness. Trend analysts use a variety of ways to determine what’s hot and what’s not. The fact is that most trends have a shelf life of about ten years.
I have often marveled at the way chefs, food journalists, culinary experts and trend predictors seize a collective thought or idea with such a synchronicity of timing. This certainly was the case with regard to the “local food” movement.

The last decade will be remembered for the return to the farmer’s market and also for eating “ethically” and “seasonal”. Many forgotten ingredients and products like heirloom fruits and vegetable were rediscovered and reintroduced into the mainstream in the past ten years. There was also a strong return to artisinal, and indigenous products as well as the reexamination and revisiting of traditional and time-honoured techniques that informed our approach to the art and craftsmanship of cookery.
It is a given that fashion can only evolve by continually reinventing traditional concepts and culinary fashions are no exception. But this time around there seems to be much more at stake from both an ethical and environmental point of view.
Ten years ago, writing my food column in the London Free Press I predicted that regional Indian food, Eritrean, and Sardinian cuisines would make a significant culinary statement in the coming decade. I also stated that the fitness boom had left an indelible mark on the way we approach eating and the trend to healthier eating had given us broader exposure to low-fat cooking, which led to a culinary epiphany for restaurant chefs. Vegetarianism had gained significant momentum in the previous decade. Low calorie, high fibre, and fat and cholesterol-reduced choices had begun to show up with frequency on restaurant menus and supermarket shelves. A style of cooking known as fusion but better described as cross-ethnic was at its pinnacle.
Satisfying comfort food, such as macaroni and cheese, mashed potatoes and apple pie, made several comebacks in both the 90’s and the past decade. Many dishes were updated and elevated with the addition of luxury, exotic or artisinal ingredients depending which way the economic winds were blowing.
Now according to culinary pundits in those very glossy food pages – that sometimes seem to have a tenuous grip on reality – umami, the word that was pilfered from the Japanese language meaning “flavour” or “taste” is slated to become a household word in 2010 in North America. Umami, commonly referred to as savouriness, has been long considered the fifth basic taste sensed by those very specialized receptor cells on your tongue and in the back of your mouth.
The informative Culinary Trend Mapping Report states overall themes for 2009 included nostalgic based cuisine, wholesome eating, comfort food, and distinctive regional or international tastes that offered a feeling of indigenous authenticity.

On the Culinary Horizon

New emerging ethnic trends predicted to attain mainstream acceptance in 2010 are: Moroccan (harrisa and tagines), Indian (regional curries and Indian-spiced fried chicken), Peruvian (aji amarillo chile and ceviche), Japanese (tonkatsu and ponzu sauce), Korean (kimchi, Korean barbecue and Korean-style tacos), Vietnamese (the phenomenon of Pho, the Vietnamese beef and noodle soup that has become ubiquitous over the last few years, largely among the ethnically in-step hipsters of Generation Y). The contrasting flavours and textures of the French-inspired Vietnamese sandwiches (bahn mi) are hot, hot, hot. Many sources also predict the revisiting of the specialities of the New American South (heritage grits, country ham and bourbon anything).
Tacos, the traditional Mexican corn or flour tortillas folded or rolled around a variety of delicious fillings, are still riding the crest of popularity. All types of street foods from the Latino melting pot are destined to start their ascent into mainstream consciousness and culinary lexicon including: churros, Cuban sandwiches, pasteles de guayaba, empanada de queso and pupusas. Many influential food writers and commentators continue to praise and have become proponents of the democratization of street food and like many of us they marvel at the ensuing street theatrics of vendors in urban centres. Authentic Neapolitan pizza is all the rage.
Topping a variety of culinary predictions entertaining similar thoughts are: the return of the amuse bouche (complimentary single, bite-sized hors d’oeuvres), appetizers featuring gourmet mini-burgers and sliders (small or mini sandwiches); in side items/starches consider quinoa, farro, couscous, and braised vegetables; breakfast/brunch menus will include traditional and ethnic-inspired offerings (think huevos rancheros); desserts will feature miniature and bite-size desserts and artisan/house-made ice cream (vanilla is still the most well-liked); regionalized ethnic cuisines; hot ingredients will be artisan cheeses and black garlic (a type of fermented garlic used in Asian cuisines, rumoured to grant immortality and one of the ingredients that currently is practically narcotic in culinary circles); and non-alcoholic beverages will highlight specialty iced teas and fair trade and organic coffee.

The Culinary Crystal Ball

One of Toronto's culinary trend watchers, Dana McCauley - and apparently this is exciting to faddist foodies - has isolated butterscotch as the new chocolate. With red velvet cake, formerly a well-known offering in the restaurants of Eaton’s in the 1940’s and 50’s, especially in cupcake form, epitomized 2009. McCauley predicts that we should expect to see the macaroon, a member of the meringue like biscuit or cookie family, become mainstream, knocking the cupcake from its perch at tasteful social events.
Pundits also predict that simplicity will continue to be a culinary theme and smaller portions (half portions) are among menu trends of the moment, reflecting the shift in consumer preferences toward perceived value and comfort during the continuing economic slump.

Culinary Cocktails and Bar Chefs

A recent polling of 1,800 chef/pundits indicates that ‘beer sommeliers’ will characterize one of the hottest alcohol trends in restaurants in 2010 and beyond. The survey states that locally produced wine and beer will rank as the fifth hottest trend on upscale restaurant menus in 2010, and culinary cocktails and artisinal liquor will both rank among the top 20. Additional alcohol trends to be seen in restaurants in 2010 include organic beer/wine/spirits, food-beer pairings, craft beer, gluten-free beer, specialty beer and organic cocktails.
The cult of enhancing and fortifying foods to make you feel healthier and more attractive is being transferred to the restaurant/bar scene. Look for bartenders to get into the act by devising healthful, good-for-you cocktails with “enhanced” ingredients — the logic being that you can drink yourself into wellbeing. Healthful beverage buzzwords for 2010 include: guanara (an exotic berry that grows in Venezuela and Brazil), acai (another exotic berry that has recently been marketed as a dietary supplement), goji (a.k.a. wolfberry), green tea, hibiscus and acerola.
The original guide for professional bartenders which included cocktail recipes was published in 1862 - How to Mix Drinks; or, The Bon Vivant's Companion, by "Professor" Jerry Thomas. It was a compendium of recipes for Cobblers, Shrubs, Toddies, Flips, Punches, Sours, Slings, and an assortment of other types of mixed drinks including 10 recipes for drinks referred to as "Cocktails". The ingredient which differentiated "cocktails" from other drinks in this volume was the reliance on bitters as an ingredient.
The culinary cocktail is another attention-grabbing concept that is up-and-coming as a top trend. This cocktail incarnation takes patrons beyond the traditional cocktail list into more diverse and exploratory offerings with a distinctly gastronomic bent. The culinary cocktail brings the pizzazz, skills and jazz of a chef to the cocktail shaker. Which brings us to another white hot trend which those in the know tell me will soon be quickly making its way to an upscale venue near you. We all know that in the culinary world the butchers and bakers are the new rock stars in the kitchen. So if you aren’t already acquainted, allow me to introduce you to the latest hip profession, the Bar Chef. The Bar Chef originated in London, England, at hot spots like Lab and Duke’s Bar. The Bar Chef is not only advancing the traditional art of tending bar but bringing the profession back to its fundamental origins and beyond. According to www.martiniboys.com “There was a time when barkeeps would create their own bitters mix and use only fresh ingredients while carving ice off of a giant block. To be a Bar Chef one needs to know more than how to pour a proper Guinness or mix a decent Manhattan. One must have a chef’s creativity and palate for combining flavours and balancing sweet, sour and bitter.”
The same demographic that appreciate local foods, artisan products and ingredients, and traditional food preparation methods are also encountering those principles articulated in a new cocktail movement with a reverence for top-shelf, hand-shaken pre-prohibition concoctions, micro-batch spirits and brews, and inspiration from current culinary trends. Libations feature local and exotic fresh juices, muddled fruit and vegetables, infused natural syrups, pulses, aromatic spices, salt varieties, seasonal herbs, scorching hot peppers and even charcuterie are a few of the ingredients in this still uncharted and emerging territory that is the province of the Bar Chef. If you think that the Bar Chef is just a passing affectation, then shame on you. You should not be surprised to learn that George Brown College’s top-notch and au courant Hospitality and Culinary Arts program is offering Bar Chef certification.
Alcohol trends ranking high in the survey tend to mirror broad-spectrum food and societal fashion. The concept of a bar chef (which I recently saw incorrectly referred to as a mixologist) exemplifies how quickly palates and the food fashionistas continue to evolve.
Interestingly, when it came to inspiration for up-to-the-minute culinary and beverage ideas, the surveyed chefs ranked food television, culinary trade shows and independent chef driven restaurants as the best places to find their muse. Locally grown produce, locally sourced meats and seafood, sustainability, mini-desserts, and locally produced wine and beer top the list of nearly 215 culinary items in the “What’s Hot in 2010″ survey from the National Restaurant Association. Rounding out the top trends are nutritious kids’ meals, half-portions, farm-branded ingredients, gluten-free/food-allergy conscious meals and sustainable seafood.
Confronted with one of the most challenging decades on record, restaurateurs are looking at 2010 with an eye towards streamlining their efforts. Menu originality and menu psychology, however, offer restaurateurs key strategies for success over the coming months by tempting recession-fatigued diners. There remain many compelling reasons to dine out. However it would seem the main impulse toward dining out for many is comfort and familiarity.

In order to ensure customer comfort and in the spirit of helpfulness, I would suggest that some restaurants need to stop talking down to their clients and learn to talk up to them. Clients are often much more sophisticated and savvy than restaurant staff gives them credit for and an unnecessary lecture can be both tedious and offensive. Other restaurants need to focus on quality, not quantity, in their quest for giving more value to the customer. And my personal pet peeves are the establishments that assume we customers are clairvoyant and seem reticent to post their menus outside. I don’t know whether this happens because restaurants are arrogant or negligent, or just not focused on what the customer wants. People generally want to help a restaurant succeed, and restaurateurs need to have the courage to ask their valued clients for honest and constructive feedback without taking it as a personal slight. Customers, for their part, need to give restaurateurs, chefs and service personnel objective and helpful feedback when asked, otherwise they only have themselves to blame when they leave an establishment unhappy. Londoners do not need to perpetuate a culinary inferiority complex by looking to Toronto, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Montreal or the U.S. for the most up-to-the-minute restaurant names to drop. We have plenty of exceptional and professional talent on our doorstep and it has been a bravura year on the London restaurant scene. London is blessed with a strong supply of culinary talent and I predict that our strong trend will continue in 2010 and we may even start a few trends of our own. I am hopeful that the expansion of culinary tourism in our region will provide more opportunities for our local restaurants to emerge on the regional and national culinary scene and for new trendsetting establishments to show us what we can do.

Wild Mushroom Tart

2010-01-05T18:22:00.001-08:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Wild Mushroom Tart

For the filling:

½ cup Portobello mushrooms
½ cup woodland mushrooms
1 medium-sized white onion, chopped finely
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tbsp sweet butter
3 anchovy fillets
¼ cup tomato ragu
sea salt & freshly ground black pepper
3 large eggs
½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
For the crust:

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ lb sweet butter
pinch of salt
qb tbsp cold water
Start by mixing the flour into the butter with your fingers; then rub the flour & butter between your palms. Make a well and add the salt and water. Start mixing with a fork, absorbing the flour & butter. Form the dough into a ball. Knead gently until the dough becomes very smooth (approx. 2 min). Wrap the dough in cellophane. Allow the dough to rest in a cool place or in the refrigerator for at least an hour. Sauté the mushrooms and the onion in the olive oil until they are lightly browned. Remove from heat. Reserve some mushrooms for top of tart. Blend remaining mushroom & onion mixture with tomato ragu, anchovies, and eggs in a food processor. Unwrap the dough and knead for about 1 minute. Press dough gently into a buttered 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Puncture pastry with a fork to prevent it from puffing up. Fit a sheet of wax paper loosely over the pastry, and then put dried beans or pie weights in the pan. Refrigerate the crust for ½ hour. Preheat the oven to 375º. Bake the pastry for 20 minutes. Remove from oven, lift out paper and weights, and return pan to oven until pastry is golden brown (10-15 minutes). Pour filling into crust, then top with reserved mushrooms and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Return the tart to the oven for 20 minutes more.

The Morrissey House

2009-12-21T04:53:00.000-08:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

The Morrissey House

The Mo’ — “Where Every Day is Like Sunday”

Traditionally, the pub that people frequent most often is referred to as their local. Despite its etymology, the fundamental nature of a local would seem to be only partly geographical. A local is the neighbourhood pub nearest to your home. However, some denizens choose their local for other reasons: proximity to their workplace, convenience as an informal meeting place for friends, the availability of a unique selection of beers, innovative pub food offerings, or perhaps the traditional pub game: darts. More often than not, the idiosyncratic nature of a local will lend itself to organized events several times a month, ranging from pub quiz/trivia nights to live music, as is the case of the Morrissey House on Dundas Street.
Proprietor Mark Serré, a 12-year veteran of the Spoke at UWO and an 8-year veteran of GT’s, wants to make The Morrissey House feel like your living room. It’s a place where you enjoy a sense of familiarity, knowing with certainty that you will always run into a friend — even if the friend is someone on staff. “The Mo’,” as The Morrissey House is often referred to, is a natural hub for the inhabitants of its immediate area and an important meeting place where people can gather in a relaxed and convivial atmosphere.
The Morrissey, which opened this past July, has quickly become a popular neighbourhood watering hole, serving interesting and innovative pub fare to clients of a very wide demographic. Situated in London’s downtown hotel district, The Morrissey House is hospitable, intimate and friendly. This neighbourhood pub accommodates 120 seats in six rooms. The beer offerings are comprehensive and the bar features 18 draught taps and 18 affordable wines by the glass. The wines are mostly the usual suspects, including a riesling from Niagara and a merlot from British Columbia.
This past summer, the 60-seat patio, set back from the street, become both an industry and neighbourhood hot spot, attracting its fair share of foot traffic and hotel business. In the resurrected heritage yellow brick house once occupied by the Oxford Arms, the main floor has undergone renovations and a significant refurbishment. Gone is the staircase to nowhere at the entrance, and the front door has been changed, making the entry more inviting and accessible. The premises have been reconfigured to improve capacity and traffic flow. The establishment offers plenty of choices in terms of nicely upholstered, comfortable and sturdy chairs and tables that afford plenty of elbow room. There is colourful and thought-provoking original art on the walls, which are painted with warm colours, and many of the building’s original heritage features are still in evidence. Two rooms have fireplaces, one for ambience only, the other working and able to provide solace during cold winter weather. The bar area itself has been redesigned and it is divided into two distinct areas. Two of the rooms can be closed off by pocket doors, allowing privacy for private parties.
Speaking of private parties, the fact that Ceeps and Barney’s had their Christmas party at The Mo’ this November speaks to the measure of industry credibility. The Morrissey House website emphasizes that it is not an Irish pub, a British pub, a gastro pub, a resto pub, a sports bar or a luncheon spot…but a local. “We want to convey the feeling that all are welcome, that we are good neighbours and that we have a sense of community. The Morrissey is a living space and we want people to feel like they are going over to a friend’s house for a dinner party. The atmosphere is comfortable and warm, the music is non-intrusive, and the service is caring. The idea is that guests will walk in and know fellow guests as they feel that same sense of community.”
Proprietor Mark Serré is also a savvy social media strategist who has opened up a two-way communication between himself and the customer. The Morrissey House has a Facebook page, a WordPress blog application on their website, and can also be found on Twitter. This has allowed Serré to constantly update and inform his clients about what The Mo’ has on offer, as well as allowing feedback about what the pub is doing well and what they can improve upon. One side benefit of this type of social media strategy is the ability to conduct a free focus group. Once you’ve opened up the lines of communication, joined the conversation and engaged your customers, there’s the opportunity to create a larger community around your brand — something the Morrissey House seems to be successfully accomplishing and part of what Serré’s business plan has been predicated on.
Although I originally visited the Morrissey House twice, just two weeks after it opened, it had the feel of a well-oiled, smooth running and long-established operation. The menu is contemporary with everything from ’Wichcraft (read sandwich) and a variety of burgers, to a jambalaya that was reminiscent of paella, with shrimp, chicken, chorizo and flavoured with piri piri. The classic pub fare of fish and chips was in this instance fresh flaky haddock served with the option of sweet potato fries. Mo’sa Fe Salad, a mélange of chicken, corn, black beans, tomatoes, mixed greens and romaine lettuce with tortilla strips, mixed in a spicy peanut vinaigrette, is a standout. The sausage plate with locally produced hunter, chorizo and village sausages, bread, a duo of cheeses and generous pots of dipping mustards makes a great sharable appetizer. Chef Ricardo brings a definite Portuguese influence to many of the offerings. The website cautions that they plan on making changes to the menu on a regular basis, and this has been my experience.
A Sunday breakfast with out-of-town guests was a hit on two occasions. Our server tells us that Eggs Benedict is the popular choice. The coffee is good. The desserts are top-notch and homemade, just not in their home. They are purchased from La Pâtisserie Fine Cakes and Pastries in Kitchener. Gelatos are locally produced by Coppa di Gelato. Everyday is like Sundae, with strawberry, coconut and chocolate gelato scoops, whipped cream, cherries, caramel sauce, chocolate fudge, cashews and crème anglaise, is fast becoming their signature dessert offering.
When I go out to eat, if I have good food and attentive service in a comfortable and relaxing atmosphere, the potential exists to become a loyal customer. When I make an authentic connection with a professional staff member, the chef or the proprietor, I want to be a faithful supporter of the business. When my custom is appreciated, I always make a determined effort to promote a new establishment. Like most diners, I’m also inclined to share the experience with others. By feeling valued, I instinctively want to introduce their business to other patrons. This is the experience of the Morrissey House.

The Morrissey House
359–361 Dundas Street
London, ON
519-204-9220

http://themorrisseyhouse.wordpress.com
http://www.themorrisseyhouse.com
http://twitter.com/morrisseyhouse

Hours of Operation:
Monday – Wednesday: 11 a.m. to midnight
Thursday: 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.
Friday: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.
Saturday: 9 a.m. to 2 a.m.
Sunday: 9 a.m. to midnight

Chancey Smith’s Steak and Seafood House at Covent Garden Market

2009-12-21T04:52:00.000-08:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Hats off to Chancey!

Chancey Smith’s Steak and Seafood House at Covent Garden Market

I still love a great hamburger or a big, juicy steak, even though I’ve been trying to cut down on my red meat consumption. trü on King Street used to make a superb mini-hamburger with foie gras that melted in your mouth, and you could order it at the bar until midnight. Waldo’s on King makes a truly outstanding burger with organic beef from Field Gate Organics, which is served with generous garnishes and condiments. I swear it is the best hamburger in the city, hands down. Chancey Smith’s Steak and Seafood House has always been a carnivore’s dream because of its great steaks.
Chancey Smith’s also has its own delicious ½-lb beef burger, and the twist here is it comes with a suggested beer pairing: Cameron’s Auburn Ale, Paulaner, #9 IPA or India Pale Ale. Chancey’s also has a more upscale ½-lb. buffalo (read American bison) burger, stuffed with short rib meat and served with mushrooms, smoked provolone, bacon, roasted onions and tomato relish, for $17.99. Suggested beer pairing: Aventinus Doppel Bock, IPA or Belgian Dubbel. For an appetizer, the grilled sirloin steak with roasted bacon-wrapped goat cheese, greens and mustard vinaigrette for $10.99 is a standout.
Recently, while researching London’s culinary history, I came across a photograph of fruit vendor Chancey Smith posed in front of his market operation on Market Square at Market Lane. The photograph taken in 1915 (which you can also see in the dining room) is just a few feet from the eponymous restaurant of today, owned by his great-grandson, the local restaurant/bar entrepreneur and raconteur Mike Smith.
Chancey Smith’s is a destination steakhouse, just one part of the Mike Smith empire, where you know for certain you can get a damn good steak and a perfect martini with good quality olives, or a decent glass of wine. Mike Smith is tongue-in-cheek on the surface (his corporate umbrella motto: “Is this any way to run a restaurant?”), but he is seriously committed to the local hospitality scene and to London in general. Smith is also the owner of Joe Kool’s, the irreverent, popular restaurant and bar that has been a landmark on Richmond Row for over a quarter of a century, as well as Fellini Koolini’s, Jim Bob Ray’s, the Runt Club, and more recently, P Za Pie.
. Smith was one of the early members of the MainStreet London board of directors. He is a fan of creative cities and always brings back interesting ideas and insights from his travels. Smith has been a relentless proponent of both Tourism London and the revitalization of downtown London. So much so that two years ago, MainStreet London honoured Smith with its Downtown Champion award, highlighting his significant contributions to making downtown better, through not only Chancey Smith’s, but also his support and networking on behalf of the downtown. Smith’s commitment to this city extends to the Clean and Green event, an annual spring cleanup he and Joe Kool’s Manager, Ron Scarfone, started in 1995. Over the years, it evolved into a downtown initiative and has built a lot of momentum since then, catching on across London and attracting a broad base of both public and private support.
Milos Kral (former longtime Marienbad/Chaucer’s manager) is at the helm of Chancey Smith’s and it shows. Vivacious Assistant Manager Michelle Novackas is also an asset: professional, knowledgeable and gracious. Longtime staff members Nick Farmer and Deb Denton add a certain je ne sais quoi, good humour and comfortable familiarity to the proceedings.
Chancey Smith’s still offers diners that “big city feeling,” while maintaining all the romanticized charm of a Chicago-style chophouse. The attention to detail of the modern interior marks a departure from the ubiquitous, corporate, cookie-cutter steakhouse décor seen elsewhere. The feeling is not standoffish or overly ingratiating. Chancey’s bar reflects the flair and refined style of its classic dining room, but with a more relaxed, down-to-earth ambience. A large mural made of ten separate panels designed by local artist Ronald Stanley Milton adds vibrant colour and a fantastic sequence of pleasing farmers’ market imagery over the bar. Patrons also find themselves surrounded by dozens of framed photographs of historic London architecture, businesses and personalities of former local prominence that include fruit vendor Chancey Smith. The bar area is bright and welcoming, with a bank of spotless windows, comfortable tables and chairs, bar stools and yet more cheerful, well-groomed staff who contribute to your sense of comfort.
The dining room is nicely appointed with dark stained wood surfaces, elegant cove ceilings, black checkered tablecloths covered with butcher paper, natural sunlight in the day and the glow of a series of contemporary arts and crafts styled light fixtures at night. Off to the side of the dining room, the open kitchen sports a copper hood. A spacious outdoor patio/terrace with classic black and white striped awning wraps around the restaurant and overlooks London’s King Street restaurant row and the market square. The popular destination bar and patio in season is a relaxing place to lounge after work or before dinner. Its close proximity to the John Labatt Centre makes it a popular choice on event nights, both before and after — as is Waldo’s on King, its symbiotic but uniquely idiosyncratic counterpart next door, with which Chancey’s shares a large clientele of regulars.
One of the strongest tenets of North American etiquette is that it is inappropriate to tell others they are not following proper etiquette. However, etiquette considers it even more impolite for men to wear baseball caps (whether backward or forward), while dining indoors. Despite the casual conviviality of Chancey’s and its relaxed management style, unless you are suffering from an illness that would cause embarrassment, ill-mannered patrons should be encouraged to remove their baseball caps in the dining room.
Chancey’s delivers with a well-chosen wine range and offers the most comprehensive and impressive selection of beer in London. As of this writing, there are 120 beers on offer and there will soon be a total of 17 draft lines. Kral, who started in the hospitality business in Czechoslovakia at fifteen, has built a reputation as a “beer sommelier.” He has a history of assembling solid beer lists showcasing some of the finest Canadian craft beers, and a strong repertoire of Belgians and other difficult-to-find European beers. Working alongside Chef Larry Cvetic and the kitchen and floor staff, Kral pairs beers that complement each entree item by listing them on the menu. This entails the necessity for a thorough knowledge of the complexities of different beers and how they work in harmony with food pairings as a distinct and worthy alternative to wine. While wine and food pairing has been a common practice for years, many people are realizing that beer, with its diversity of unique flavours and aromatic characteristics, can rival wine in its ability to harmonize with food. With the growing stylistic diversity in today’s beer scene, people are discovering new ways that unique beer styles enhance their culinary experience.
“A Trappist beer is brewed by or under the control of Trappist monks. Of the world’s 171 Trappist monasteries, seven produce beer (six in Belgium and one in Holland). Only these seven authorized breweries are allowed to label their beers with the Authentic Trappist Product logo that indicates compliance to the criteria set by the International Trappist Association,” explains Kral.
The dinner menu sports some interesting items, but Chancey’s is primarily known for its comfort food: excellent steaks, lobster tails, and especially its fresh oysters on the half shell. Roasted lamb shanks braised in Belgian Abbey Ale are a new and welcome addition to the menu, and on this occasion were served with barely al dente root vegetables and truffle mashed potatoes. Suggested beer pairing: Trois Pistoles, Rochefort Trappist Ale (yummy), Leffe Brun and Belgian Abbey Ale.
Chancey Smith’s is a convenient downtown choice for lunch, which they serve until 4 p.m. The menu offers a variety of sandwiches, salads, appetizers and daily specials. I recently had a commendable roasted chicken quesadilla with onions, pepper, tomato, Monterey Jack cheese and pico de gallo.
This past October, the Covent Garden Market celebrated 10 years in their new premises. This, the third incarnation of the Covent Garden Market, opened its doors on October 21, 1999. Designed by London architect Russ Scorgie, the building’s architecture in many ways pays tribute to the original Covent Garden Market of 1853.
Chancey Smith’s keeps the spirit of the old market alive and brings it forward for a modern audience while honouring its traditions and history — and faithful Londoners love that nod to nostalgia.

Chancey Smith’s Steak and Seafood House
130 King Street
London
519-672-0384
info@chanceysmiths.com

Hours of Operation:

Sunday to Wednesday: 11 a.m. to midnight
Thursday, Friday and Saturday

Interest in Developing a Culinary Tourism Initiative for London is Building.

2009-11-16T06:48:00.000-08:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

The Ontario Culinary Summit

Interest in Developing a Culinary Tourism Initiative for London is Building.

For regular readers of this blog and eatdrink magazine you may recall my recent articles about culinary tourism and community building. I would like to give you an update on subsequent conversations and progress in this area.
In speaking with Tourism London, we identified the need to define what culinary tourism is and to catalogue the multiple culinary tourism experiences and opportunities in the London region. We also identified that much of the infrastructure is already in place and the need to further identify collaborative partners, and then develop and grow existing culinary forums and services.
In an effort to uphold the case for London to be formally recognised as a unique culinary tourism region I am continuing to map and track the most sustainable and economically relevant social and cultural forces at work in our culinary sector. The next steps are to further develop a local Culinary Tourism Initiative Association and Board and a newsletter, blog and website.

I am encouraged by the initial steps for a more vigorous culinary initiative in the London region. Tourism London has embraced the first step and is partially funding a local culinary guide. Published by eatdrink magazine, the culinary guide will take a more comprehensive and integrated approach to promoting our local culinary community by identifying London and area as a desirable destination for those interested in culinary tourism as a primary or secondary consideration. To this end, the early adopters in this initiative want to create an annual, unique publication that will highlight the diverse culinary people and businesses in London and area. This guide will function as much more than a restaurant guide, although it will do that well too. This resource will complement and supplement the London Visitors’ Guide published by Tourism London. The culinary guide will be ported to the web, where it will also be enhanced with video and interactivity and integrated with the innovative new Tourism London website designed by local design studio Velocity and Associates under the direction of Marco Di Carlo and Shane Stuart.

The culinary guide will show our city to its best advantage. eatdrink magazine will provide some mentoring for the culinary community in promoting their businesses in this publication. It will be of benefit for food-related businesses to advertise in this publication as it is so closely linked to their industry. The primary target audience includes people from London and region, and those visiting the area, who have an interest in culinary experiences whether that is the purpose of the trip or an added attraction.

The guide will complement Tourism London’s marketing to the corporate meeting and incentive travel audience as well as group and motor coach tour marketers. The publication will include original, local and innovative photography and original, more comprehensive editorial content to more effectively promote the culinary businesses in the area.

Interest in developing culinary tourism for London is building. I recently attended the Ontario Culinary Tourism Summit in Toronto to investigate current developments, funding opportunities, strategic partnerships and best practices of other Ontario regions who are leading in the field of culinary Tourism.

I was joined by only one other person representing a London-based organization, a representative of a local business association who was very interested to learn how a more broad-based culinary tourism may benefit existing London businesses and help to attract more culinary-related investment in the vicinity. Together we looked at the tremendous opportunities to encourage culinary tourism in our region.

Building on the empowering success of last year’s inaugural Culinary Tourism Summit, the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance (OCTA) partnered with the Province of Ontario, Wines of Ontario, Savour Ontario Dining, Toronto Food Business Incubator, Green Belt, Local Food Plus and other stakeholders to create this year’s summit by bringing together over 350 delegates. The delegates consisted of growers and producers, chefs and restaurateurs, educators and students, destination marketing organizations, accommodators and media to enhance and develop culinary tourism offerings across the province. The event was hosted by Rebecca LeHeup, Executive Director of the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance. The day's agenda included: the importance of buying local, the value of supporting local farmers, establishing regional culinary tourism sectors in Ontario, food sustainability, mapping culinary destinations, and charting sustainable solutions to advance culinary tourism in Ontario.

The summit consisted of panel discussions, presentations and networking, allowing delegates to learn from the experiences and knowledge of the practitioners of Culinary Tourism in Ontario. The summit also provided an opportunity to learn more about culinary tourism best practices, and inventory and infrastructure development.
The first panel consisted of moderator, Kevin Brauch aka The Thirsty Traveller on the Fine Living Network, Arlene Stein the Director of Catering and Events for U of T's Hart House and co-chair of Slow Food Toronto, and Chef Jason Parsons, of Niagara's Peller Estates.

Presentations were given by Jon Ogryzolo, Dean of Wine and Culinary for the Wine and Visitor Education Centre at Niagara College. The Wine Visitor and Education Centre is the first of its kind on-campus facility in North America. The centre celebrates Ontario and Canadian wines, is the home of the Niagara College Teaching Winery, and is set among 40 acres of teaching vineyards at the base of the Niagara Escarpment, a UN World Biosphere reserve.

Suzanne Caskle of George Brown's Culinary Tourism Management Program spoke about the college's new interdisciplinary program that explores the relationship between food and travel as it relates to destinations, agriculture and economic development. Caskle and her student panel talked about how the program examines successful culinary destinations and products as well as examples of emerging culinary tourism destinations in Ontario, across Canada and around the world.

Social media strategist, Barry Martin, spoke about "Making Social Media Work for You!"

Among the highlights of the summit was the opportunity to discuss the diverse terroir of our province at a "Farmer Chef Meet and Greet." We sampled excellent regional foods from six culinary tourism regions across the province and a variety of Ontario's exceptional wines and local beers at a "Taste of Ontario reception" which was sponsored by Savour Ontario and Wines of Ontario.

Stratford, Durham, Peterborough and the Kawarthas are three of fifteen emerging culinary tourism destinations in Ontario who shared their challenges and successes in advancing culinary tourism in their regions. The OCTA was also pleased to have the continuing support of the Minister of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs, Leona Dombrowsky, as a guest speaker. Minister Dombrowsky gave an informative speech that encouraged the growth of the agricultural and tourism industries through the development of culinary tourism in Ontario.

With the premise that food is the foundation of our culture, culinary tourism experiences offer locals and visitors to the city of London and Middlesex County the opportunity to taste our multiculturalism and unique culinary identity along their journey. Building relationships between growers and producers, farmer's markets, chefs and restaurateurs facilitates the development of new culinary tourism experiences and ensures a sustainable local food culture.

BRYAN LAVERY is a respected local chef, proponent of London's culinary tourism initiative, culinary instructor and former restaurateur. As eatdrink's "Contributing Editor" and "Food Writer at Large," Lavery shares his expertise and opinion on a wide spectrum of the culinary beat.

Culinary Trends as an Indicator of popular Culture

2009-10-28T04:24:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

The end of one decade and the beginning of another is a good time to reassess the role of culinary trends as an indicator of popular culture.
How we eat, what we eat, and where we eat can often be linked to particular points in time. And as I have written many times, few things rouse a distant memory for me as easily as food.
As an example, a former colleague Joan Brennan and I used to make a festive and colourful 1950's retro dessert for special occasions called marble danties. We combined this moulded jelled dessert with panna cotta to great effect and the result was a truly spectacular dessert.

Gelatin acquired an esteemed role in classic French cuisine. Gelatin is composed of protein molecules that are comprised of chains of amino acids. When placed in liquid, the molecules swell and then dissolve, and the chains separate. After cooling, they re-form as tightly as before. In the warmth of the mouth, they melt, providing excellent flavour release. This property and gelatin's easy digestibility and absorption by the body have made gelled concoctions popular and appropriate for infants, invalids, and the elderly.

The gelatin added to the marble danties panna cotta gave it a retro appearance and the flavour transported me back to the dining room table of my Scottish great Aunt Jenny and Uncle Bill who raised my father. In my childhood their home for many years was where our paternal relatives celebrated a ritual New Year's Day dinner. I recall a variety of fluorescent jellied marshmallow and opaque vegetable salads that were glazed showpieces. I also remember the most tasty and sophisticated looking salad being the Waldorf, which consisted of raw apples, celery, and walnuts dressed in mayonnaise, and served over crisp iceberg lettuce.
Likewise, I cannot eat Kaiser rolls, mortadella, headcheese or condiments such as horseradish or Keen's Dry mustard without momentarily flashing back to the exotica of my maternal grandmother's kitchen table from my childhood. These tastes are evocative of comforting and happy times.

More to come -

The Culinary Pecking Order

2009-10-27T11:34:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

The Gastronomic Hierarchy

With the increasing interest in all things culinary, it should not surprise anyone to learn that there is a gastronomic pecking order.
At the bottom of the gastronomic hierarchy is goinfre (greedy guts), then goulu (glutton), gourmand,(one who enjoys eating), friand (epicure), gourmet (a connoisseur of food and drink), and finally the gastronome ( one with a serious interest in gastronomy). Gastronomy being the study of the relationship between food and culture.

Also, lets not forget the obsessively culinary interested, “foodie”, a modern term that is often incorrectly used synonymously for gourmet. There is a distinct difference in their meanings. The foodie is an amateur or hobbyist and a true gourmet has the refined taste of a professional.

In my experience, those characterized by the French term goinfre (greedy guts) suffer a ravenous, reprehensible disposition. They are hard to stomach due to their selfish, insatiable appetites.
Gluttons, on the other hand indulge their voracious appetites indiscriminately and to excess. Greed and Gluttony are considered objectionable vices, and are two of the seven deadly sins, being excessively desirous of possessing more than their fair share.
Gluttony is often an emotional escape, a sign that something is eating us. Gluttons are often seen at competitive eating or speed eating events, in which participants compete against each other to consume large quantities of food in a short period of time. Gluttons are routinely found in all-you-can-eat buffet line-ups and at pie-eating contests.
Gourmand is an all-encompassing term for disciples of good food who are unacquainted with Miss Manners and Emily Post. They lack the skills of proper refinement. They also tend to be over-fond of fine dining.
At the next level, we find the epicure. This term has had a renaissance but is still sometimes used to lampoon those devoted to the pleasures of the table.
The Oxford Companion of Food says the term “derived from the Greek philosopher Epicurus, who declared happiness to be the highest good, which came to mean, in a food and wine contest, a person of refined tastes.”
Gourmet denotes even more respectability and gravity in culinary matters. This French term originally meant “cultivated wine-taster.”
Gourmets tend to be discriminating in their eating habits and sophisticated, with an educated and professional interest in culinary matters. But with gourmet this and gourmet that on supermarket shelves, the term has lost its intended meaning for most of us.
The gastronome has reached the highest level, taking great strides to comprehend the most subtle nuances of food and taste. This quest for illumination has often been confused with pretension.
Gastronome’s highly educated palates are usually combined with a strong desire to impart their observations to others.

Ponder these words of wisdom from Ludwig Bemelmans: “The true gourmet, like the true artist, is one of the unhappiest creatures existent. His trouble comes from so seldom finding what he constantly seeks: perfection.”

Abruzzi Restaurant

2009-10-05T05:51:00.000-07:00

Promoting The Recognition of Cuisine as a Manifestation of Culture.

Abruzzi

There’s a new Italian-inspired restaurant in town, and it’s the genuine article. Abruzzi, London’s latest addition to King Street’s restaurant row, is a contemporary gourmet Italian hotspot serving traditional regional Italian specialties. The offerings may be simple, but they are classic, prepared with local and traditional upscale ingredients and executed with finesse and polished presentation. These are the very early days and there are still a few things to iron out, but first impressions in restaurants are important and the word of mouth on the street is good — actually, very good.
Karen Brown (whose resume includes The Verandah, Blue Ginger, The Church, Custom Cuisine Catering and On The Fork) was offered the opportunity to create a new restaurant from scratch in the previous premises of the recently departed Mint Restobar. The renovation is superb, chic with an elegant white marble bar, with six comfortable bar stools located inside the front entrance. The space is practically unrecognizable from its previous incarnations, warmly and comfortably appointed. The kitchen has also had a considerable equipment upgrade with the installation of a pasta cooker, pizza oven and a spiffy line-fridge featuring an enviable wide marble plating counter. Service, lighting, music and ambience have been well thought out by the detail-oriented Brown, who stresses simplicity and freshness as cornerstones of the Abruzzi restaurant philosophy. Brown strives to avoid the “special occasion” restaurant moniker, and has built Abruzzi to be more accessible and convivial, a place that will also appeal to John Labatt Centre crowds.
The chef is Josie Pontarelli a Stratford Chefs School alumna who worked with Brown at On the Fork for three years. Prior to that, Pontarelli managed the Green Room at Stratford's Festival Theatre. There she was mentored by renowned chef/cheese maker, Ruth Klahsen of Monforte Dairy, who became a significant influence in Pontarelli’s early career. Her obvious talents and credentials aside, Pontarelli has formidable Abruzzo-Molise connections by way of marriage. Her Italian in-laws are serious food people from Molise that have been instrumental in nurturing her passion for regional Italian cuisine and her in-depth knowledge of Italian culinary techniques.
Molise is a little known south-central Italian region. Until 1963 it was part of the combined region of Abruzzo-Molise. Both regions have two distinct culinary personalities: the coastal one based on the fish and seafood of the Adriatic, and the mountainous pastoral one based on the pork and lamb cuisine of shepherds and of the contadino (the small farmer). Unlike many parts of tourist-trodden Italy, additional subsets of cuisines remain both strongly regional and localized. The food at Abruzzi restaurant is influenced by the pastoral mountainous cuisine.　　
Growing up in Timmins, Pontarelli’s upbringing by her own admission was strictly white bread and nothing exotic. When she first tasted a roasted red pepper, Pontarelli confides that she had naively assumed it must be seafood or possibly an anchovy. When she was seventeen and dating her husband, his family gave her a pizzelle iron for her first Christmas gift. The iron is used for making traditional waffle-like cookies that are made from flour, sugar, eggs and butter and are typically flavoured with anise or fennel. Pontarelli, who exudes a genuine graciousness and generosity, offered me pizzelle to sample and I can attest to the fact she is now an expert pizzelle maker.
In the middle of the afternoon, the warm aromas emanating from the Abruzzi kitchen are deeply comforting, and the distinctive essence of sourdough bread fills the dining room. I am seated at the bar and a sample of the bread fresh from the oven is presented on a cedar plank and accompanied with a small pool of dark green extra virgin olive oil. Chef discusses the sharp taste of the oil (an eminently fresh Italian flavour) and the sourdough starter (known as bigas in Italy) that is used both for the bread and for the pizza dough. The bread has rustic qualities: a hearty crumb and delicious earthy crustiness; the pizza dough has been a bit more temperamental. Remembering that Rome was not built in a day, Chef is busy rethinking and refining the perfect pizza crust.
　　　　 The milk in my caffe latte is organic, and right away I am asking myself, is this is an affectation or do these people really want to put their money where our mouths are. But this is cuisine with an ethical sensibility, a conscientious menu that tells us that Abruzzi restaurant uses 100% D.O.P. (Denominazione di Origine Protetta,　meaning Protected Designation of Origin, a hallmark equivalent to the French AOC or Controlled Origin of Appellation) San Marzano tomatoes, local organic eggs, local freshly milled flour (Arva Flour Mill) and organic meat. The organic dairy products served in the restaurant are sourced from Harmony Dairy via Field Gate Organics. Harmony Dairy is a cooperative of local farmers dedicated to sustainable agriculture and organic principles. Chef hopes customers will appreciate their commitment to these details and principles. Price of course is a consideration -- organic milk comes at a premium -- but this is a detail that distinguishes the restaurant from any other in the city.
Chef goes on to explain that they make their ricotta cheese in-house from the organic milk of Harmony's contented cows. The ricotta is also turned into a traditional cheesecake with raisins, currants and candied orange peel. And, because we are speaking of dessert, Chef describes her olive oil and rosemary pound cake that is oven-toasted and served with mascarpone cheese and wine poached apricots.
Pontarelli leads a culinary team of four career chefs, hand-picked for their positive, up-beat dispositions and work ethic. "There are no in-house prima donnas." And Pontarelli’s philosophy, "If the chefs aren't happy, you can taste it in the food," is a mandate echoed by Brown, who is determined to nurture a tension-free atmosphere even when the pressure to perform is red hot.
The kitchen uses only quality ingredients combined with fresh, simple seasonal ideas that are executed with Italian methods and domestic traditions. Pontarelli’s goal is to produce most everything in house. One of the exceptions is the artisanal cured meats for antipasti and appetizers, which are the province of the Pingue family from Niagara-on-the-Lake. The Pingues, who coincidentally hail originally from Sulmona in Abruzzo, source the best pork on the market using only certified organic or "naturally" raised products. Their hams are from free-range animals that are grown 8 to 10 months of age (double the age of market hogs), fed only non-GMO feeds, given no animal by-products and are humanely raised and harvested. The larger Ontario hogs they purchase yield world class hams in size, flavour profile, colour and aroma. When the product comes into the Pingue hands, it is air-cured and salted for a variety of different traditional old-world charcuterie. Most of the herbs and spices they use for their well-seasoned cured specialties are grown on the Pingue farm.
The Pingue family supplies the Abruzzi kitchen with a selection of cured meats that sound like a mini tutorial on charcuterie. The offerings include: capicollo (boned and aged rolled pork shoulder), pancetta (cured pork belly similar to bacon), cacciatore (a small dried salami made from lean and fat pork meat ground to the size of grains of rice), soppressata (pork meat from the shoulder mixed with fatty minced pancetta with a soft consistency and a delicate smoky flavour), bresaola (the heavenly but sharp raw filet of beef tenderloin that is sliced like carpaccio), guaniaciale (a super tender type of pancetta made from cured jowls) and Pingue's beloved mouth-watering proscuitto.
The bresoala is a stand-out, served on a bed of arugula with baby spinach, extra virgin olive oil, capers, and thinly shaved Pecorino Romano (a strong piquant D.O.P. cheese made from ewe's milk). The cheese selection features two other D.O.P. products: Taleggio (buttery soft with a washed rind, anaromatic flavour and a reddish crust) and Pecorino Romano Fontina Val d’Aosta (intense flavour melts in your mouth). Pontarelli is sourcing some interesting sheep and goat cheeses from Fifth Town Artisan Cheese in Prince Edward County and she is also a fan of George Taylor's C’est Bon goat cheese from St Marys, which she uses alongside green olive tapenade and sautéed mushrooms on a panini featured on the lunch menu.
Abruzzi purchases some meat from Field Gate Organics in the Covent Garden Market and other specialty items like smoked salmon and grain-fed, free-range organic chicken slaughtered to order from La Ferme, Black River Game Farm in Pefferlaw. Pontarelli’s team serves a house-made sausage with spinach, red pepper flakes and pork, scented with fennel and served on a bed of olive-oil scented lentils. This delicious sausage is used in a homemade spaghetti dish as well as a panini with sweet and hot peppers, onions, fontina and eggplant compote at lunch.
The restaurant is a neighbour of Jill's Table, one of London's paramount purveyors of fine foods and all things culinary, where customer service and product knowledge is the foundation of their excellence. "Jill Wilcox is an amazing resource – supportive, knowledgeable and a big part of promoting the local culinary community," says Pontarelli. "Jill can be counted on to offer honest, solid constructive criticism and hers is an opinion that I greatly value. She has been instrumental in sourcing many authentic difficult-to-find products."
Women supporting women is a theme that resonates with both Pontarelli and Brown. A former colleague insists that the restaurant industry has always been notorious for keeping the artistry of women chefs on the back burner, so to speak. But it would seem that London's culianary community has become more supportive and collaborative and rallied around Pontarelli and Brown in the first weeks since the restaurant quietly opened its doors for business.
Pontarelli concludes our last interview with praise for Brown. "Karen does an amazing job of running the front of the house. She is warm and sincere and people respond to her." Even though lunch hour is looming, she is self-possessed enough to dictate to me her method for making gnocchi.

　　
A Cook’s Tour of Abruzzo　
The cuisines of the Abruzzesi are typified by simply prepared fresh local ingredients. Ten years ago I had the good fortune to discover the Italian region of Abruzzo while on a culinary quest with my good friend and chef colleague Fernanda Cerone. At the end of our trip, we returned to her birthplace in Celano. Celano is situated in the middle of the Abruzzo region, close to the recently earthquake-ravaged city of L’Aquila, and rises on top of a hill high against the Appenine mountains. It faces the valley of Fucino, once filled by the large Fucine Lake, which was drained during the nineteenth century for some of Italy’s most fertile farmland. The Abruzzesi Appenines curtain most of this region from mainstream Italy, creating a series of unique cuisines reflecting the unspoiled and pastoral environments.
On that original trip, we ate very well and were feted at every turn by Cerone’s relatives. Meals were always sumptuous and comprised of many small courses. That spring, a variety of indigenous truffled, primordial-flavoured pasta dishes were the centrepiece of most of our dining experiences. These Abruzzesi use this delicate, curious fungus as a matter of course when in season.
On a more recent trip to Abruzzo with friends, we stayed in the hillside town of Pratola-Peligna. The ancient town of Pratola-Peligna lies in the Peligna Valley, surrounded by spectacular mountains and parks. Fridays are market days in Pratola-Peligna. We awoke early to the rumble of sellers’ trucks arriving on the narrow hill streets. The vendors drive quickly along the worn, arched cobblestones to set up their culinary specialties of smoked, air-cured and salted charcuterie, fresh fish from the Adriatic, local cheeses, wild fungi, olives and seasonal fruits and vegetables in portable stalls on the neighbouring streets.
It is no wonder that the Abruzzesi are renowned for their hospitality and gastronomy, and for producing some of the most talented professional cooks working in Europe. Abruzzo has long since become a preferred destination when visiting Italy. If you are travelling to Abruzzo and want to experience life far from the madding crowds, check out these websites for accommodations: www.aplaceinabruzzo.com and abruzzoholidayretreat.com.
　